bottomline89 Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 ok. i gotta ba10/5 and a 4.0, it's ready to pull but i don't know where all the bolts are between the bellhousing and the motor. i got the four lower bolts but which ones do i take off on the top? then once i get that off.. is the clutch gonna give me any problems? this is my first motor pull so any additional info would be appreciated :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 If you are pulling the motor in addition to the transmission, why are you bothering to separate them? Just pull both out as one unit and do the transmission swap with the ease of it being out of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDAN1 Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 If you are pulling the motor in addition to the transmission, why are you bothering to separate them? Just pull both out as one unit and do the transmission swap with the ease of it being out of the vehicle. :agree: If you pull the radiator/condenser out, both engine and tranny will come out together fairly easily and then you can take the 2 apart much more easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffN Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 The top 2 bolts are external torx bolts. They are a real pita to get if you don't have the right socket/swivel combination Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Can you leave the transfer case attached and get everything out in one shot? I'm slowly working towards an engine rebuild on my '90 and figured I'd pull the front clip to get it out. 4.0, AX-15, NP231 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Can you leave the transfer case attached and get everything out in one shot? I'm slowly working towards an engine rebuild on my '90 and figured I'd pull the front clip to get it out. 4.0, AX-15, NP231 Yes, you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 I always pull the complete drive train and separate them after I get them out. The transfer case wants to catch where the firewall floorboard joins But a little shake and it comes right out. Have the lifting chain, strap set on the engine to where it will have about 120- 175 degree tilt angle helps. Depending on the model, sometimes it is necessary to remove the condenser. Sometimes it can just be moved to one side. Removing the front clip really isn't necessary. Just remove the radiator, header and if necessary the condenser. The hood can be removed but I've found that by removing the two front bolts and loosening the two rear ones to where maybe three threads are catching the hood can be pulled back far enough for clearance. Main thing. Just make sure everything is detached from the engine. It's a PITA to get halfway out and find a wire still connected, Remove the gear shift and transfer shift levers. it won't clear with them on. I don't have any help so everything I do is a one man operation. like removing the hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDAN1 Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 I always pull the complete drive train and separate them after I get them out. The transfer case wants to catch where the firewall floorboard joins But a little shake and it comes right out. Have the lifting chain, strap set on the engine to where it will have about 120- 175 degree tilt angle helps. Depending on the model, sometimes it is necessary to remove the condenser. Sometimes it can just be moved to one side. Removing the front clip really isn't necessary. Just remove the radiator, header and if necessary the condenser. The hood can be removed but I've found that by removing the two front bolts and loosening the two rear ones to where maybe three threads are catching the hood can be pulled back far enough for clearance. Main thing. Just make sure everything is detached from the engine. It's a PITA to get halfway out and find a wire still connected, Remove the gear shift and transfer shift levers. it won't clear with them on. I don't have any help so everything I do is a one man operation. like removing the hood. FYI also, I found that taking the motor mount "ear" off the passenger side helps when removing engine, tranny and transfer case together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 I always pull the complete drive train and separate them after I get them out. The transfer case wants to catch where the firewall floorboard joins But a little shake and it comes right out. Have the lifting chain, strap set on the engine to where it will have about 120- 175 degree tilt angle helps. Depending on the model, sometimes it is necessary to remove the condenser. Sometimes it can just be moved to one side. Removing the front clip really isn't necessary. Just remove the radiator, header and if necessary the condenser. The hood can be removed but I've found that by removing the two front bolts and loosening the two rear ones to where maybe three threads are catching the hood can be pulled back far enough for clearance. Main thing. Just make sure everything is detached from the engine. It's a PITA to get halfway out and find a wire still connected, Remove the gear shift and transfer shift levers. it won't clear with them on. I don't have any help so everything I do is a one man operation. like removing the hood. FYI also, I found that taking the motor mount "ear" off the passenger side helps when removing engine, tranny and transfer case together. That too. I meant to mention it but forgot. Thank you for bringing it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bottomline89 Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 ok. thanks for the help everyone! i have a 2wd so i don't have to worry about the transfer case. i've got a few pictures that i'm going to put on my build page once i'm done with this. I'm going to united engines and getting a brand new engine with 0 miles on it. :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 All those Comanches are gathered around the Grand Cherokee... "Sacrifice!" "That engine is mine!" "Dibs on the transmission!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 One of the few ZJ's with a decent transmission and you yank it out. :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 The top 2 bolts are external torx bolts. They are a real pita to get if you don't have the right socket/swivel combination Its an E-12 socket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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