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Coolant suggestions - For the oddball.


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Hey guys. It's getting to that point to where I need to refill the Diesel with some coolant. The coolant will be needed to keep the 2.1L OHC Turbocharged Renault in check. The original AMC specifications call for an AMC Green coolant, with Aluminum safe characteristics... We've come a long way since then. Being that it is an aluminum block, aluminum head, cast iron sleeves, and all sorts of soft metals, do any of you who know enough about coolant to make a suggestion? I stopped by our local radiator repair guy to ask his opinion... But I wanted to gather a bunch of insight if I could, just to see what the masses hover around.

 

So I am all ears for help.

Rob

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I use Advance Auto Parts' prediluted antifreeze in my Wrangler with all its aluminum parts. I would not be so paranoid about what you use as long as the system is fully flushed and cleaned out before a complete refill. Look for antifreeze that meets ASTM D-3306 and ASTM D-4340. 4340 is specifically the test for aluminum corrosion. I know Peak specifies 4340 on the bottle.

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Rob, any of today's major reputable brands (I use undiluted Autozone w. distilled H2O in all my junk) is fine. All modern engine coolant systems have some aluminum components in the system, some are entirely alloy, unlike yesteryear. So no worries.

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Rob, any of today's major reputable brands (I use undiluted Autozone w. distilled H2O in all my junk) is fine. All modern engine coolant systems have some aluminum components in the system, some are entirely alloy, unlike yesteryear. So no worries.

 

:agree:

 

Although I will add: I don't buy the pre-diluted mix (no matter what brand). I used to until a friend at the store asked me "Why are you buying water...?" :roll:

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Rob, any of today's major reputable brands (I use undiluted Autozone w. distilled H2O in all my junk) is fine. All modern engine coolant systems have some aluminum components in the system, some are entirely alloy, unlike yesteryear. So no worries.

 

:agree:

 

Although I will add: I don't buy the pre-diluted mix (no matter what brand). I used to until a friend at the store asked me "Why are you buying water...?" :roll:

 

 

Same money for half the product.

 

 

To state the obvious is to insult some members here which is apparently easy.........lol

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Rob, any of today's major reputable brands (I use undiluted Autozone w. distilled H2O in all my junk) is fine. All modern engine coolant systems have some aluminum components in the system, some are entirely alloy, unlike yesteryear. So no worries.

 

:agree:

 

Although I will add: I don't buy the pre-diluted mix (no matter what brand). I used to until a friend at the store asked me "Why are you buying water...?" :roll:

 

Nor do I. Should have worded it better, like:

I use undiluted Autozone and add distilled H2O in all my junk
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I'm a import guy so I like to use the red toyota extended life for the most part... but I have taken a liking to Honda coolant. The toyota is red, but the honda is blue, I've never cared for green antifreeze. We use cheaper green antifreeze at work and it eats up the hoses pretty quickly. My 1987 Toyota MR2 has a rear engine front radiator configuration with about 20 coolant hoses, its always had toyota extended life changed every 5-10 years, all of the hoses are original and you can give them a nice squeeze without a crunching sound, just rolled over 270,000 miles, I actually thought about using some spare mr2 hoses from a 1985 doner mr2 for the comanche... but they would not work. My comanche's lower hoses was rotten (the upper is shot as well), when I replaced it I noticed NAPA printed on it... so this is at least the 3rd lower hose w/142,000 miles.

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Guess I will put my cards down on the table now. The radiator guy recommended a HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) because of the low silicates and phosphates with special additives for Aluminum protection. The silicates in his world are like internal sandblasters for soft metals. He basically said that the silicates can pick up and carry a charge, and basically use electrolysis to erode the radiators in his experience.

 

 

What it basically boils down to, is either the Gold G-05 Ford Coolant, or the newer Chrysler stuff, which is the same thing, but with a different color dye (Orange).

 

 

While doing some research, I did find this pretty good article that showed up in Motor Magazine, up on the Gates website. They go through the transformation of the types of coolant, and the problems with each. It's a good read if you have some time to kill and a beer.

 

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... 4huKVoPnuw

 

Rob :cheers:

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Cards down on the table now? Rob, you're way over-thinking this issue IMO. We're talking about a Renault tractor diesel engine here, not an Audi A8 4.2-litre V8 TDI or similar. I think the coolant type used is one of the most minor issues with this engine. Interesting topic though........

 

:cheers:

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Rob, any of today's major reputable brands (I use undiluted Autozone w. distilled H2O in all my junk) is fine. All modern engine coolant systems have some aluminum components in the system, some are entirely alloy, unlike yesteryear. So no worries.

 

:agree:

 

Although I will add: I don't buy the pre-diluted mix (no matter what brand). I used to until a friend at the store asked me "Why are you buying water...?" :roll:

 

 

Same money for half the product.

 

 

To state the obvious is to insult some members here which is apparently easy.........lol

 

No insult intended - I was makin a funny on myself...up until that point I actually did buy the pre-mixed :doh:

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Rob, also I believe Supertech all makes all models extended life cooland does not have silicates in it either. I think this is what I used in my bikes the last time I changed the coolant. Any truck stop will have HOAT coolant designed for big rigs that run cylinder sleeves and are not a parent bore block. Zerex G-05 is good stuff though.

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