Comanche1987

I rolled my stock toyota truck (22r/4speed) drifting it. trucks are better for doing work but theres no reason you can't have a little fun as well. A 2JZ is a overpriced terrible swap in my opinion. Your going about things all wrong, Torque what you need with a heavy box like a MJ if you want to try to go fast. A stock 4.8/5.3 V8 chevrolet is very small for a V8 and powerful. The weakest 4.8L has 255HP and 285Ft lbs of torque. The weakest 5.3 270HP/315ft lbs of torque. These are all STOCK numbers, and these engines respond very well to mods and I bet they weigh less than a 4.0L and bring most of the engine mass to a lower center of gravity. From where I have read about those turbochargining they have made insane amounts of power on stock engines. The chevrolet will also allow you to still have the ability to use a 4x4 setup, 500whp 4 wheel drive jeep=fun.

I had the exact same problem with a few vehicles, one of the reasons why I always check the distrbutor cap and see if I can rotate it :wrench: One of the most difficult and strangest problems I've found working on cars has to be a 2003 Chevrolet Impala, 3.8L v6, it would make a grinding noise when turning left but not right. I disassembled the front suspension and could not find any problems. After spending 12 hours trying to diagnose I finally had someone drive the car in left circles with the hood up while I ran along side listening. I wanted to slap myself when I figured out it was the starter. The Bendix had gone bad allowing the starter gear to slide out and hit the flywheel on sharp left turns.

This sounds pretty crazy and is illegal but I thought I'd share, there is a guy I know that has repaired his a/c system without any real equipment, crazy.. yes you really do need to see the high side pressures but anyways... I've seen him replace a compressor and drier on a mid 90s r134 ford truck and since he had the system open it had oxygen and what not, he demonstrated charging the low side with a diy kit and then with the shredder valve down on the high side let all of the r134 force the air out. I've never done this and I don't have much experience with diy r134, I have been trained on robin air machines at work and know enough about air conditioning to know better though :rotf:

freeze 12 is r134a with propane or some other gas mixed. It should not be difficult to locate the correct size hose fittings and a r134a condensor to connect to your system. I work on custom a/c systems in school buses all the time and they are fairly simple, a simple crimped connection to the correct fitting, a/c hose can be purchased at most autopart stores I believe too. I have used r134 with stock r12 systems, its hit or miss, some systems its ice cold others it isn't. I definatly would not use freeze 12, I noticed no difference except price and a little lower pressures, but not enough to produce a temperature difference. If you charge it with R134 and it doesn't leak your system is in good shape and you can look for some r12 (searchtempest.com click autoparts catigory, enter "R12" into search 0-150$) on craigslist.

I'm a import guy so I like to use the red toyota extended life for the most part... but I have taken a liking to Honda coolant. The toyota is red, but the honda is blue, I've never cared for green antifreeze. We use cheaper green antifreeze at work and it eats up the hoses pretty quickly. My 1987 Toyota MR2 has a rear engine front radiator configuration with about 20 coolant hoses, its always had toyota extended life changed every 5-10 years, all of the hoses are original and you can give them a nice squeeze without a crunching sound, just rolled over 270,000 miles, I actually thought about using some spare mr2 hoses from a 1985 doner mr2 for the comanche... but they would not work. My comanche's lower hoses was rotten (the upper is shot as well), when I replaced it I noticed NAPA printed on it... so this is at least the 3rd lower hose w/142,000 miles.

... clogged radiator?

any advice? about to get off work and start figuring out the puzzle.

my old pump

pump I bought http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0331 Master Pro Reman Water Pump - Water Pump $20.99 Each Plus Core - $1.00 Add to Printable List Online: Available Call Store: Usually Avail. 24 Hrs Find store with item 1 year limited warranty •Remanufactured •With Serpentine Belt •With Integral Pipe

Recently my waterpump bearing gave out causing the pump to leak. I replaced the pump last night (after work and really tired). I got "integral serpentene belt that looked similar to my dieing pump from the front. I replaced the lower hose and the thermostat (o.e. temp) as well. The heater valve broke so I bypassed it, the coolant system was filled with nasty rusty water, i flushed it the best I could with fresh water. I tried to bleed the cooling system but it seemed like the thermostat wasn't opening. I removed the thermostat and tried it again, it would very slowly overheat still. The cooling system worked fine before so I am doubting a clogged radiator but its possible, a friend subjested a reverse flow water pump was given to me. Any thoughts? I'll try to get some pictures. I can drive about 4 miles before having to pull over and let it cool down (gets to about 210-220).

Houston, sorry forgot to add that to my user info.

At work in my friends back yard, cleared out tons of debris and misc in preparation for his move.

my strange tachometer problem I saw the street sign and couldn't resist.

is there a thread explaining this c101 connector?

Just looking to keep her on the road. I just did a fuel mileage check and 60%city 40% highway driving I managed 25.7mpg driving conservatively, I always also carrying 300lbs of misc junk to drop off at a local scrap metal yard for about 25 miles of the 75 mile test loop. I can move my waterpump pully slightly when grabing the fan so I know thats going to kick the bucket soon, I want to replace all of my coolant hoses/thermostat/radiator at the same time though. I found this radiator on amazon for $62 bucks http://www.amazon.com/Shepherd-Parts-Co ... 663&sr=1-1 I will likely use rock auto for the rest of the parts. I also found this compressor (a/c) http://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-0 ... 777&sr=1-1