SW86 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 again. a leak has come from the pressure bottle. i said i was going to do the open system swap ages ago but never did. i have the overflow bottle from a 97 xj and hose that goes with. I'm looking 97 xj radiators now but I'm sick of looking around for a "good one" or the "best deal". ive got several questions before i do this and i need to do it soon! I'm going through coolant like its nothing and ive got a run coming up in a hurry. A. do i really need the new heater valve? some just run straight to the heater core. is that fine? i wouldnt mind the extra heat it puts out but if theres a negative to that. id like to know. edit: B. i answered myself. turns out radiator barn sells CSF :doh: C. would running a lower temp t-stat be better since the 3 row rad would keep temps down anyway along with the open system. I'm sure ill think of something else later but for now we'll keep it to those. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boots Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 I completely eliminated the heater valve things. Haven't noticed any side effects at all. Just run the hoses straight to the nipples sticking out of the fire wall. :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Running with out the heater valve will not harm anything. If you turn the switch to cold the damper only allows outside air in and doesn't route through heater core, so no harm. It will actually prevent crap from building in your heater core. keep with stock thermostat.... our renix systems are designed to run at that temp. I ran a 180* for awhile and it caused my oil pressures to be higher and the oil got dirtier faster I assume it wasnt gettign hot enough to clean and pump through filter enough. also if your radiator is not leaking you can do an inline pressure valve cap, or pick up a radiator pressure tank with pressure cap. don't forget to get an overflow bottle. I did the conversion after i'd replaced my radiator with an oem because of a leak. I too used radiator barn and was very happy. I picked up a pressure tank from Mac's radiator and an overflow bottle from a 2.5l also i found that for the tee's you won't find 5/8" barb in anything but plastic, however go to homedepot or lowes and look at their brass pex tee's. Worked perfect. I think it was the pex brass tee for 3/4" :) good luck oh here's a link to prior thread with some pics. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32876 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Ditch the heater valve and install a stat from the dealer 83501426. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 this is what i meant by inline... there are cheaper ones too http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CSI-973/ the presure tank i used instead of a new style radiator: http://www.macsradiatorshop.com/surge-o ... tanks.html link of an oem overflow bottle from a 2.5 or you can use the square ones from new years etc... bottle i used: http://www.quadratec.com/products/51216_02.htm the cap for the overflow was a dorman part: 82594 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 I did the swap on one of my MJs that has been retired to "farm duty." I didn't want to spend a lot of cash on the swap so here is what I did to get it done cheaply, but reliably: Kept the original closed system radiator (it wasn't leaking) Install an aluminum (the plastic ones are generally junk) inline filler neck: http://www.amazon.com/Moroso-63730-Radi ... sbs_auto_1 Install an overflow bottle (pick one up from a JY out of an open system XJ) Remove the heater valve and run new lines straight from the heater core to wherever it is they go. The ID of the hose is slightly different on each of the heater core connections, so know that before you go to buy new hose. Install a new 16 lb. radiator cap The total cost for my conversion was less than $50. I searched around on the internet to find the inline filler neck and I wound up getting it for less than $20, but I can't remember what vendor that was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 C. would running a lower temp t-stat be better since the 3 row rad would keep temps down anyway along with the open system. No. The purpose of the thermostat is to keep the temperature UP, not down. Modern engines need to run warmer than the engines I used to build as a racer and autocrosser back in the 60s and 70s. Run the factory thermostat. If you get overheating with that in there, you have problems other than the thermostat. FWIW, the newer "open" radiator doesn't cool any better than the older, "closed" radiator. They have exactly the same cooling area. The weak point of the closed system is the crappy plastic bottle and pressure cap, and there are multiple options available to replace that with something you don't have to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 the radiator i have now has several holes in it and the on top of that the pressure bottle decides to go. its the second one from quadratec thats crapped out. no more. so i was just going to buy an open system rad for a 97 since i already had parts off a 97. figured why not keep it going. so I'm about to order one from radiator barn now. water pump screams at me sometimes to, so i know its on its last leg too. also when i replaced the tstat before i threw in a "fail safe" one. so thats getting replaced as well. i know the factory is 195 but what about a 192 degree tstat? would that be fine? also where can i buy the water tube that comes out of the water pump? i can't seem to find one at autozone or where ever. mines rusted as hell. so as you can tell, my WHOLE system is $#!&. yay!............ thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 radiator ordered :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 where can i buy the water tube that comes out of the water pump? i can't seem to find one at autozone or where ever. mines rusted as hell. so as you can tell, my WHOLE system is $#!&. yay!............ thanks guys Ask for the tube from the 97. It's curved. The straight tube seems to be a junkyard item. You can also use a piece of black or galvanized pipe from the hardware store. Match up the threads on the WP and shove a hose clamp on the other end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 the straight tube from the water pump is just a piece of 3/8" NPT pipe. I used brass from homedepot about 6". then used a coupler and got the tubed nipple from autozone. I hate plastic pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 Ask for the tube from the 97. It's curved. The straight tube seems to be a junkyard item. You can also use a piece of black or galvanized pipe from the hardware store. Match up the threads on the WP and shove a hose clamp on the other end. i started to buy that one from autozone but the people just kept arguing with me that it wouldnt fit. :dunno: then again they're just going off what a computer tells them anyway. the water pump for a 97 and my 88 are the same. i don't see why it wouldnt. i can get galvanized right down the road at the local parts store for cheap. i actually just bought some yesterday for hood spacers ill check it all out when i start doing the swap. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abyx Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I have all of the parts off of my Cherokee to do this swap; my question is what do you do with the thermal switch on the Renix Radiator? A friend of mine told me you wire it into a newer style thermostat housing pigtail and plug it into said housing...is that true? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I have all of the parts off of my Cherokee to do this swap; my question is what do you do with the thermal switch on the Renix Radiator? A friend of mine told me you wire it into a newer style thermostat housing pigtail and plug it into said housing...is that true? Check to see if the Cherokee radiator has a plastic cap in place of where the thermal switch is. You might get lucky - I've bought open radiators that still had the spot for the thermal switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abyx Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I have all of the parts off of my Cherokee to do this swap; my question is what do you do with the thermal switch on the Renix Radiator? A friend of mine told me you wire it into a newer style thermostat housing pigtail and plug it into said housing...is that true? Check to see if the Cherokee radiator has a plastic cap in place of where the thermal switch is. You might get lucky - I've bought open radiators that still had the spot for the thermal switch. I'll do that. I think I remember seeing a plug when I yanked the radiator out; I could only be so lucky. I'd be even more lucky if early model grand cherokee radiators are the same as Cherokee radiators; because I have access to a brand new one for nothin'! :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 They're much, much different - not quite as wide and taller than the XJ. I know this because I need to fit one into my 5.9L MJ project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abyx Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 They're much, much different - not quite as wide and taller than the XJ. I know this because I need to fit one into my 5.9L MJ project. Well damn, alright then. Need a brand new radiator for it? Hahaha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 okay last questions. which hose goes where to the heater core? water pump to bottom/top to thermostat? or vice versa? and i had to unplug this little elbow that went to a connection on the old hoses. it was like a vacuum hose for the a/c maybe? does it matter that its just sitting unplugged or should i cap it off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 The vacuum hose needs to be capped or plugged if you're not going to use it to operate the heater core valve. When you move the slider from cold to hot you'd have a vacuum leak on your engine. If you don't have cruise and have eliminated your Central axle disconnect you can chase the air hose back to the intake manifold and disconnect it. On that line is also the vacuum bladder that is in the front bumper. regarding hose routing see post the diy forum random picture thread for this post: Found here:http://brackmann.org/berkeley/Jeep/miscinfo.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 thanks. guess ill chase it down and cap it off. i also found a random pic of someone elses open system swap which showed the top to the thermostat and bottom to the water pump. so thats how i ran it. drove it and it seemed to be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 thanks. guess ill chase it down and cap it off. i also found a random pic of someone elses open system swap which showed the top to the thermostat and bottom to the water pump. so thats how i ran it. drove it and it seemed to be fine. Since you've removed the heater control valve i don't imagine it will make a difference in the direction of flow through the heater core. I hope you flushed the heater core out a few times prior to hooking it up. I ran about 6' of hose on each and then ran the garden hose back and forth between them and would switch once the water ran clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 Hmm i did not. So far the coolant has been cleaner then I've ever see it with this truck. I've only ran it long enough to get it hot enough for the thermostat to open to cycle the whole system though. It's only two hoses though so flushing it wouldn't be a problem if it's really needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Hmm i did not. So far the coolant has been cleaner then I've ever see it with this truck. I've only ran it long enough to get it hot enough for the thermostat to open to cycle the whole system though. It's only two hoses though so flushing it wouldn't be a problem if it's really needed. if you just put a new radiator in I'd disconnect the heater core and flush it now... Otherwise all the scale will end up in your new radiator. Mine was nasty, I think the prev owner may have used some of the leak stop too. at radiator shops they use like a pulsing wash that helps loosen things. I'm sure many other Comanche club and various car restore mechanics would strongly recommend it. Just like most people on here will tell you if you have your dash out--- might want to replace the heater core and fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 I used a 1st gen S-10/ Blazer overflow bottle and it fits great. You can modify the stock Renix overflow bottle bracket to fit it. And it was $5 at the jy :clapping: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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