KYMJ Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Suspect mine is toast. Well, with 250,000, guess thats ok. Anyway, I have a new noise. Sounds exactly like a wire tie or wire hitting the fan blade. Doesn't sound like a mechanical tick like a lifter type noise, etc. I tried to find it with the screwdriver to the ear method. Can't really pinpoint it. Not the a/c, not the waterpump, but its right behind the grill in the very front of the motor. The timing chain came to me in a vision during my sleep. Only reason I'm asking is on another forum, a person just changed his and the noise he described is a ticking like a lifter. Anybody havce any experience with this? I'm proceeding to gather everything to do the job unless I get anymore ideas. I'll have to tear it down anyway to find any evidence. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Funny....I just picked up an new noise like this last week on my '89, with 86K, sound like a "wire rubbing " noise, right behine the grill/radiator. I'm thinking it's the fan cluch?? Only time I hear it is when I first start up, engine still cold. Of corse in this weather, every thing is COLD ;) Anybody have a better idea?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketwheels Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 ....could be the fan clutch,.... I've had sbc's that make a faint sound like you describe, the timing chain is sloppy and is rubbing the cover, They eventually rub through and seep oil on the chevy motors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMJ Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 Looks like the PO installed a new fan clutch, doesn't mean it's good. The sound I'm getting just doesn't suggest the timing chain. The last one I ran into didn't really make noise, but wore the hole in the cover. I'm going to tear into it this weekend and figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiscus Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Is yours a 4.0 or 2.5? That makes a big difference as far as timing chains. I've still never seen a 4.0L with a bad timing chain... Also, check the harmonic balancer for play or rubber showing. You can start the jeep w/o the accessories (belt) hooked up to alleviate the other pulleys, or remove the fan clutch & start it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 I just replaced mine on my 2.5 last month: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... ming+chain But it didn't sound like what you're hearing. It was a definate clicka-CLACK-clicka-CLACK-clicka-CLACK......sound. It didn't start making any noise from a cold start, only when the engine began to warm up, then it was constant, and varied with engine speed. I ran it like that for about 30K miles or so, didn't affect driveability but was annoying as all hell (kind of embarassing, too, sitting in traffic :oops: ) It actually turned out that the tensioner (4.0 doesn't use one, only the 2.5) was toasted, and was slapping the cover on each crank revolution. The chain was stretched but not beyond spec (1/2"). But since I had it all ripped apart anyway, I replaced the chain and gears as well. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiscus Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 I just replaced mine on my 2.5 last month: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... ming+chain But it didn't sound like what you're hearing. It was a definate clicka-CLACK-clicka-CLACK-clicka-CLACK......sound. It didn't start making any noise from a cold start, only when the engine began to warm up, then it was constant, and varied with engine speed. I ran it like that for about 30K miles or so, didn't affect driveability but was annoying as all hell (kind of embarassing, too, sitting in traffic :oops: ) It actually turned out that the tensioner (4.0 doesn't use one, only the 2.5) was toasted, and was slapping the cover on each crank revolution. The chain was stretched but not beyond spec (1/2"). But since I had it all ripped apart anyway, I replaced the chain and gears as well. Jeff Can you tell me WHY anyone ever thought a spring-loaded plastic tensioner on a metal chain would last?!?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 because they figured that putting the clutch master cylinder directly above the fusebox wasn't a good enough idea...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMJ Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 Is yours a 4.0 or 2.5? That makes a big difference as far as timing chains. I've still never seen a 4.0L with a bad timing chain... Also, check the harmonic balancer for play or rubber showing. You can start the jeep w/o the accessories (belt) hooked up to alleviate the other pulleys, or remove the fan clutch & start it. I planning to do this ASAP, and eliminate the drive accesories, and take it from there. Spent the day at the pull a part. Found a Comanche, but not one with a D44. Got some nit picking parts, however. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Harmonic balancer about to fly apart is another noise they make like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duner Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Timing chain is cheap insurance on any motor with +100k miles besides my 4.0 liter gained 20 to 25 seat of pants horsepower after the change just remember that you must count the links between the marks on the inline 6 engines. We did all of this work because the rear main seal was leaking really bad. so the MJ got a new seal, oil pump, one piece pan gasket and timing chain. End result more power and no more oil leaks, some busted knuckles and bad attitude from having to pull the ax15 out of the pilot bushing to get the upper seal half into the block and a lot more smiles everytime I step on the gas, and this truck was running well before all this or so we thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 I can't claim 20-25 hp with my new chain/gears, but my butt dyno did register a slight increase in power :D At first, it ran real flat....I mean REAL flat.....but after a day or so of driving and one good haul on the interstate @ 65-70 mph it came back around. The only problem I have is a small oil leak, on the right side of the cover where the oil pan seal meets the cover :mad: I've got to go back in in the near future and replace the HB and install a new radiator, so I'll deal with it at that time. For now, it's just one more thing that drips ;) Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMJ Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 It's the harmonic balancer. It came out some more and I can see it hitting the fan. I'm off to get one. Will this be a cataclysmic failure if it comes all the way apart? How much time will I have? Don't want to hurt anyone. :roll: Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 It's the harmonic balancer. It came out some more and I can see it hitting the fan. I'm off to get one. Will this be a cataclysmic failure if it comes all the way apart? How much time will I have? Don't want to hurt anyone. :roll: Thanks guys! I have never seen one come apart. But I couldn't imagine it would be pretty. The outer ring probably ways 1-2lbs itself so it you spin that at 2000rpm and just let it fly what do you think would happen :eek: :eek: :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 yeah...what he said. Wouldn't be pretty I'd imagine. Mine started squirming out the back...I just cut the protruding parts flush with a razor knife and reinstalled it, just to get it moving again. But it's on the priority list to replace (right now, I drive the MJ maybe once a week) Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 I got a 2 week warning, then mine ate the rad and fan belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMJ Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 I found a new one luckily. here's the deal-I've had this truck over a year now. The rubber was sticking out evenly about 1/4 inch ever since I've owned it. I just assumed it was supposed to be like that, even thought about trimming it off. Now it came out far enough to hit the fan. I found a new one and planned to put it on tonight, but I think I'll park it and wait. Don't want to trash anything else, or somebody :D . Now the rant-If it doesn't warm the heck(edit,sorry) up, I'm moving back to Florida. :mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 Cost me $45 for a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMJ Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 Cost me $45 for a new one. Not as bad as I thought. There's aftermarket ones available, but Advance said it would take a week. I got one at the dealer for $53. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMJ Posted February 14, 2007 Author Share Posted February 14, 2007 I'm still working on this job. :eek: I started Sat, I was so confident that it would be easy, I started on a day I had a surprise birthday party for my wife. Couldn't find my impact wrench, so I tried the 2 bolts and prybar method while attempting to break the big bolt loose, couldn't break it, but I did mange to break one of the bolts off where I need to mount the puller. No problem, I'll get back to that. Party Sat night. Work Sunday(24 hour shifts). Monday spent hunting down impact wrench and trying to find a strap wrench big enough to hold balancer. Start work about 3. Impact wrench WILL NOT break loose bolt. Strap wrench and a 4ft cheater bar on my breaker bar finally gets it loose. On to broken bolt, no problem, done it many times, have several good sets of easy outs. WRONG, won't budge. Hole wollered out to threads now. Quit work 4:30. Wife is starring in a play for community theater, having rehearsals every night. I tend to kids while she's gone. Work today. Back at it tommorow, I'm looking at rethreading the hole or Heli-coiling just to have a place for the third bolt for the puller, haven't even gotten the old balancer off yet. But, I'm still confident that I'll lick this 2 hour job. I'll be into my fifth day. I'm unbelievably stressed out right now. :rant: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 A little late, but you could have put a breaker bar on the HB nut and then wedged it against the framerail or ground and bumped the starter to break it loose. For the broken bolt, maybe try slipping a hose clamp behind/around one of the spokes of the balancer (or maybe even an exhaust clamp) and clamping that third arm of the puller with it. Install the other two bolts to the same depth as the rear part of the clamp (keep the puller face as parallel as you can to the balancer) and remove. Or since you aren't reusing it, try a long self-tapping 5/16" bolt with a washer on it. It's a press fit, but it really doesn't take that much force to pull it off the crank snout (make sure you pull the washer off the HB bolt so you aren't pushing on it instead of the crank with the puller) Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 I'm still working on this job. But, I'm still confident that I'll lick this 2 hour job. I'll be into my fifth day. I'm unbelievably stressed out right now. :rant: A little late to mention this, but when they go bad, I use a 3 legged puller to yank the outer ring off and then pull the inner part the same way. I've spot welded nuts to the face and other things too, just to get the old one off. (disconnect the battery before welding. I prefer disco'ing the computer too, but it's tougher to get to.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMJ Posted February 15, 2007 Author Share Posted February 15, 2007 I finally finished this job. Once I got the broken bolt out, it went fine. The threads were still good enough to get the third bolt in for the puller.There's just no room if something goes wrong. No straight shot to drill into broken bolts, you need to get dead center. Could have put in a motor in that time. Which might be the next project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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