Jump to content

electric fan conversion


Recommended Posts

Image Not Found

 

It overcools with the 16" aftermarket. Don't really think it matters which one you choose it will overcool. The only consideration may be the current draw of the Taurus fan.

 

I have it mounted with two aluminum plates because that is all I had at the time, when I find a big enough plate I'll remake the mount, it does draw evenly over the entire radiator though, works well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got my fan for my 2.5 from the junk yard out of a pontiac, i think grand am can't remember 100% but it works great not a hole lot of mod to get it to fit either. Its a nice large S blade too. if you want ill post a pick. I just wired it to a switch though for now. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ford Taurus ~96-97 3.8l The shroud width matched the sheet metal flanges on the radiator! I used two 1/4 in standoffs on the left side. The whole fan assembly from the pull & pay was $24.99. Two speed electronic control and temp sensor from DC Controls. You can see the two speed relay controls in the upper right corner of the photo. I did have to move the radiator mounts forward 3/4", that was a bit of a sheet metal challenge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went on car-part website they are asking for left or right assembley. Does it matter. Airspeed how much clearance do you have from back of the fan to the pulley on waterpump. thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The fan that I pulled was a BIG SINGLE FAN, most of the Taurus that I looked at had the double fan setup. I'm pretty sure it was a ~96-97 with 3.8l, I might of been wrong, I know it was a Taurus. I have about 1" of clearance to the pulley. Note: I had to cut sheet metal and rivet new top locations for the rubber mounts. I moved the radiator forward about 3/4". You can see the temp sensor wire going into the top center of the radiator fins and the fan relays over on the fender.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I installed a Jeep WJ fan with a fan controller. I used two seperate Jeep 2.8 fan shrouds and custom cut them to fit around the WJ fan and epoxied it all together. I think used the top halves of both 2.8 shrouds to make it fit the rad better and clear the rad hoses. I used the 2.8 shrouds because I didnt want to cut my 2.5 one in case I needed to go back to original with it in case this didnt work. The WJ fan is pretty slim and draws a lot of air. Ive had it on for a couple years now with no problems. I didnt need to move the rad, but couldnt anyways as Ive also installed AC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got my taurus fan today wanted to know about the three wires. One is black - one is brown ad yellow- other one is brown and orange. Do i need to use both speeds of the fan or just one and witch two wires should i use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.jaycorptech.com/pc-37-16-spa ... ion-3.aspx

 

This is the s--t of fan controllers.......but you pay for it.

 

 

I did not seek out a Taurus fan because of the current draw............IIRC the start-up on high speed exceeds 50 amp.

 

 

I had the same Hayden fan in my Ranger for about 8 years and I'm sorry I didn't remove it before I got rid of the truck, It would still be running in my MJ.

 

 

As airspeed said make sure your set up is rated 50 amp or better.

 

Cheap on the fan and expensive on the controller.......either way you're gonna pay for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Using a Fluke digital clamp ammeter, we tested the starting (or inrush) current draw and the operating current draw. The Taurus fan pulled a little over 130 amps on startup (only for milliseconds) and settled down to right around 40 amps using the high-speed wire. This is why you must upgrade to the bigger alternator and a Bosch high-powered relay.

 

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003 ... /index.php

 

 

Everything you need to know is here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I saw the mention of SPAL controller. It is a good one, but be aware

that it is not intended for fans drawing high current. Plus, if you

intend to use their sensor (FAN-PWM-TS) there is a possibility it will

not work correctly for you. Mine did not, and I was able to obtain the

calibration curve from SPAL and discovered the resistances were

very far off where they were supposed to be. The OEM sensor will

work just fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I saw the mention of SPAL controller. It is a good one, but be aware that it is not intended for fans drawing high current. Plus, if you intend to use their sensor (FAN-PWM-TS) there is a possibility it will not work correctly for you. Mine did not, and I was able to obtain the calibration curve from SPAL and discovered the resistances were very far off where they were supposed to be. The OEM sensor will work just fine.

 

The SPAL controller, at least the model I have, will handle internally a fan up to about a 25A draw. If the fan draws more, you can use the SPAL to trigger external relays for the LO & HI speeds. And the OEM sensor for the temp gauge (not the temp sensor on the HO thermostat housing for the ECU) works just fine for setting the LO & HI speeds on the SPAL.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is hard to get a good photo with it all back together. I had to move the (2) top holes that hold the rubber mounting grommets about 3/4" forward. You can see the small sheet metal plates that I riveted in. As I remember I had to cut a sheet metal flange on the right side, vertical cut about 14". Edit: You can also see where the shroud is mounted to the radiator flange on the right side with sheet metal screws. The left side had that 1/2" setback gap in the shroud so I used some standoffs and longer sheet metal screws. I used foam along the left side to make a seal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

My fan temp sensor came with the DC Controls fan relay. It is a small thermocouple that pressed into the radiator fins. It is nice because back on the fan control module you can adjust the set point +- 15 degrees when the fan turns on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...