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Clutch Replacement/Diagnosis


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This is in reference to this truck:

 

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=33041

 

I finally got the truck running. Besides being loud due to no muffler, slight coolant leak from a rotten hose, it seems to run good.

 

The truck does not move; i was told this when I got it.

 

First thinking, Clutch.

 

Clutch master cylinder is full of fluid, and looks fresh. When you push in the pedal, nothing happens. Put it in gear and let off the clutch, nothing happens. Absolutely no noise, grinding, nadda.

 

What are the steps I should do to confirm that this is clutch issue?

Is the slave cylinder adjustable?

 

I want to do everything I can to make dang sure that its the clutch before I drop any more cash into this thing. I paid 350 bucks for the truck and currently have another 100 invested in an ignition switch and a new starter. I just don't want to get ahead of myself!

 

What parts are "recommended" to be changed when you do a clutch? Flywheel resurfaced? New one? New slave? New master?

 

I'm all ears dudes! jamminz.gif

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Have you tried bleeding the slave? This would be my #1.

 

If you do need a clutch you could go with a kit. I ordered and received a Luk clutch kit from Carolina Clutch for my new 87 2.5. The kit includes: disk, pressure plate, pilot, throwout, slave and alignment tool. Cost was around $160 to my door.

 

It is my understanding that the 2.5 flywheel can be resurfaced (according to the FSM and various forums), unlike the 4.0 flywheel.

 

I plan on replacing the rear main with the flywheel out. Just seems like a good idea since it is not of the same design as a 4.0.

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Bleed just like the brake calipers :D I like to do a gravy bleed first: Fill master and slightly crack the bleeder. Let it sit for an hour making sure to keep the master topped off. Tighten bleeder, pump, bleed air out while applying steady pressure to the pedal. Repeat until you have no air bubbles. A buddy and a vacuum bleeder will make it go fast and painless.

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It sounds crazy but have you tried to move it when it's in 1st gear or any gear? If you try to start it (outside!) in gear does it move? The clutch should be engaged without the pedal pushed in because the pressure plate at rest mates the flywheel to the clutch disk because of the springs on the pressure plate. If the truck freely moves in gear you have some things to look for.

 

First you may have a couple of springs bad on the pressure plate, second the clutch disk may be shot, third the pressure plate might be stuck aka rusted. You trans might be bad too. Try reverse also.

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I tryed everything I could think of.

2hi

4hi

4lo

All the gears. I got nothing. T-case linkage is still in working order.

 

Ill be able to start working on this next week and will update as I figure out whats happening. (3 more night shifts)

 

Being this truck has a plow, I would imagine the old owner plowed in 4hi all the time. Might be okay with a 6 cylinder, but the 4 cylinder was probably using all the torque it could muster to push the plow. I guess I'm pretty sure the clutch is toast.

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Second the "Are you sure it has a clutch in it?"

 

Look at this logically. You wrote that when you step on the clutch, nothing happens. But apparently you CAN shift the gears. That means that the engine is NOT connected to the transmission. Transfer case in neutral doesn't apply -- the transfer case comes after the transmission in the drive line. Even if you had no drive shaft in the vehicle, if the clutch was connecting the engine to the transmission you COULD NOT shift the gears without crunching.

 

So the ONLY conclusion is that the clutch is NOT connecting the engine to the transmission. That means bleeding the system won't help, because if the system just needed to be bled you would not be able to shift the gears. Your problem is not that the clutch won't DISengage, your problem is that the clutch won't engage.

 

I think you need to drop the tranny and see what's going on inside the bell housing.

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Second the "Are you sure it has a clutch in it?"

 

Look at this logically. You wrote that when you step on the clutch, nothing happens. But apparently you CAN shift the gears. That means that the engine is NOT connected to the transmission. Transfer case in neutral doesn't apply -- the transfer case comes after the transmission in the drive line. Even if you had no drive shaft in the vehicle, if the clutch was connecting the engine to the transmission you COULD NOT shift the gears without crunching.

 

So the ONLY conclusion is that the clutch is NOT connecting the engine to the transmission. That means bleeding the system won't help, because if the system just needed to be bled you would not be able to shift the gears. Your problem is not that the clutch won't DISengage, your problem is that the clutch won't engage.

 

I think you need to drop the tranny and see what's going on inside the bell housing.

 

Here are a few other only conclusions:

 

stripped splines in clutch? center part of disc broken out? broken trans input shaft? Trans input to cluster gear stripped? Broken trans mainshaft? Tcase chain broken? Tcase gears stripped?

 

I could go on..

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Here are a few other only conclusions:

 

stripped splines in clutch? Possible.

 

center part of disc broken out? Possible, but not making any noise?

 

broken trans input shaft? Possible.

 

Trans input to cluster gear stripped? Stripped so smooth he can shift with no noises?

 

Broken trans mainshaft? Ditto above.

 

Tcase chain broken? Nope. Transfer case follows tranny. If he can shift the tranny with no clutch, it ain't a transfer case problem.

 

Tcase gears stripped? Ditto above.

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Trans input to cluster gear stripped?

 

4th would still work normally.

 

Good call.

 

In all honesty, I keep thinking tcase stuck in neutral, maybe linkage to selector broken somehow.

 

 

I'm going to go check this out this morning. For some reason I keep thinking it is something EZ. Otherwise, either later today or tomorrow, I plan to pull the trans and see whats happening in the bellhousing.

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Trans input to cluster gear stripped?

 

4th would still work normally.

 

Good call.

 

In all honesty, I keep thinking tcase stuck in neutral, maybe linkage to selector broken somehow.

Put your transfer case in neutral, keep your foot off the clutch, and try shifting from neutral to first or reverse gear with the engine running. Tell us what it sounded like.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Eagle

 

Sorry I missed your last post.

 

 

Well i finally got time to pull this thing apart to see whats happening. I picked up a cheap trans jack from Harbor freight which made removal of the trans/t-case easy. I had some problems with the bolts on the front driveshaft on the t-case side. I'm thinking someone put red locktight on them. Anyway, I got everything removed tonight to have a looksee.

 

Learning as I go with my book handy... :wrench:

 

Here is what the clutch disc looks like:

 

 

 

 

 

Fins look wore also:

 

 

To me everything looks wore out but obviously I will not know the difference till I get new parts. What do you guys think?

 

Also I had to cut the hydro line for the internal slave. The fitting was rusted too bad to pull it apart. Ill have to most likely replace the whole internal slave cylinder assembly. I'm I correct that the "bleeder" is on the passenger side of the bellhousing?

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  • 2 weeks later...
That is one wasted clutch!

 

Yes, bleeder is on passenger side. The new slave will have it.

 

Sweet. Working on this tomorrow.

 

I got some fabbing to do to get the x-member back into this pile of rust but will not get that far tomorrow. Hopefully get the new clutch in and the trans back in tomorrow. :wrench:

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  • 3 weeks later...

I drove this outa the garage tonight FINALLY. Had to make a line from the clutch master to the slave cylinder. Had the girlfriend help me bleed the clutch. Got a few little things to do; fluid service, wiring for the plow, cutting edge on the plow, some emmision hoses need help, and a gas tank will be the last thing if the thing plows good and deams itself worthy of a shiny new tank.

 

Thanks for the help guys. Clutch job was the first for me.

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