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lift help!


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i currently have a rough country 4.5" lift on my comanche. i plan on doing soa in the rear and i would like to do 2 inch spacers in the front. my rough country kit came with new lower control arms, sway bar lowering kit, and springs. what else do i need to stay daily driver able. lower track bar? dropped pitman arm? i have my transfer case dropped all ready not worried about that just about the front steering and centering. i don't want death wobble.

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From what I learned in Doing my lift trying to beat or prevent "death Wobble" starts with well balanced tires. I argued for months with people on here and myself that tires could not start my wobble. But once I replaced the tires the wobble went away.

 

I read everything I could find on Death Wobble. Kevin's off Road says that death wobble not attributed to tires is caused by the trac bar and it's bushings. Their resolve is a supper hard bushing set and a stiff stabilizer. However I read multiple articles and spoke with many many alignment shops and they said loose or worn parts will allow death wobble to show it's face. So chase out any loose or worn parts, IE ball joints, Uppers and Lowers, Tie rods etc for play. If there is play there is a chance that the harmonic that causes death wobble will be able to amplify and shake you to death. While chasing death wobble i ended up replacing everything from trans mount, motor, ball joints upper lower, and all steering components. I replaced everything one part at at time all prior to finding out it was my tires.

 

Regarding a drop pitman arm, or changing your steering style... You have to keep or need to keep your track bar and the drop link parallel or you will get bump steer (wheels turn when you go over a pump because of change in angles). I lifted my front 5" and changed my track bar to one of Rusty's HD bars with a different frame mount and did not want to change the factory linkage. So I dropped my arm 1" from stock to make them parallel. Some people change to a knuckle to knuckle link to eliminate bump steer from our stock Y link style. Some also have retappered their outer c's to bring the linkage up, but then you need to relocated your track bar too.

 

The biggest issue you will have will be your alignment and pinion angle with 6.5" Your lower arms and uppers need to change at that length. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29966&p=300917&hilit=control+arm+lengths#p300917

 

front brake lines need to be replaced with longer at that length unless you already have. I found some through napa that were really cheap. I also replaced my parking brake lines when I did my SOA. I switched to a D44 so I did not have to worry about Drive line length. If you're not changing your pumpkin length your drive line maybe way too short unless you addressed that too. If the drive line is too short your yoke may come out or cause vibrations on up the truck.

 

 

I'm sure the others on here will chime in with better info, but I have just been going over mine and am avid in researching and over complicating things. Feel free to ask.

 

 

When setting your rear axle if you're welding perches keep in mind if you do not use a slip yoke eliminator you want your pumpkin parallel to your transfer case. If you do use a yoke eliminator you want your pumpkin parallel with your drive line. If you don't do your best to follow this you will cause oscillation and vibrations as each end of the drive shaft will actually travel at different speeds through the rotation.

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Put the transfer case back up where it belongs, A transfer case drop is a band aid for Cherokees with short rear driveshafts. Comanches do not need it. It also makes the front driveshaft angles worse, weakens the cross member mounting and puts added stress on the engine mounts. It also makes the rear driveshaft angles wrong unless you get wedges or longer shackles.

 

Even with 4.5" lift you need an aftermarket track bar. Control arm drop brackets will work with the stock control arms, but IMO are a bad idea if you take this truck offroad as they like to catch on rocks. If no drop brackets then you need lower AND upper control arms. You have lower ones, but not upper ones. If the new lower arms are fixed, they will not be the correct length for the additional 2" you're planning on. To go along with the 4.5" lift you also need longer shocks and brake hoses, same as moving up to 6.5". Sway bar drop brackets should be okay, but everyone I know (including two of my own vehicles) run the sway bar in the stock position with longer quick disconnect ends on it.

 

Whether you should leave the front at 4.5" and bastard pack the rear with Cherokee leafs to match the front with a SOA conversion, or leave the rear spring packs intact and add spacers to the front all depends on what size tires on what backspacing wheels you want to run, how much if any cutting you're willing to do to the fenders, and what you plan to use your truck for. But no matter what, you do not have all required parts to lift the front correctly.

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I drove my truck with 6.5" of lift in the front with short arms for a month before i got death wobble, the control arm angles are just too steep and i hated the ride it gave, if you are going to go up the 2 extra inches is it worth all the money? unless you plan on going to 35s you really don't need it. if you do run shorts arms at 6.5" get your tires balanced right and keeping a little less air pressure in them ~23-26 and a stiffer steering stabilzer will help prevent death wobble from happening along with replacing any loose or worn parts.

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I drove my truck with 6.5" of lift in the front with short arms for a month before i got death wobble, the control arm angles are just too steep and i hated the ride it gave, if you are going to go up the 2 extra inches is it worth all the money? unless you plan on going to 35s you really don't need it. if you do run shorts arms at 6.5" get your tires balanced right and keeping a little less air pressure in them ~23-26 and a stiffer steering stabilzer will help prevent death wobble from happening along with replacing any loose or worn parts.

 

 

Please explain the less air pressure to me? And don't use boyle's law or the Ideal gas law as Kevin's Off road incorrectly references them to support his claims. Both laws assume sealed containers. When you fill you're tires with air you are adding more molecules of air.

 

The only thing i can think of for a reason the tires with less air may reduce the probability of death wobble is it would absorb more of the "road noise" acting as additional suspension.

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I drove my truck with 6.5" of lift in the front with short arms for a month before i got death wobble, the control arm angles are just too steep and i hated the ride it gave, if you are going to go up the 2 extra inches is it worth all the money? unless you plan on going to 35s you really don't need it. if you do run shorts arms at 6.5" get your tires balanced right and keeping a little less air pressure in them ~23-26 and a stiffer steering stabilzer will help prevent death wobble from happening along with replacing any loose or worn parts.

I'm wanting to go 33/10.5 on it. I think going up 2 more inchs would make it look a little bit better. I'm waiting until i get my 33's because currently it has 30's and the 33's might make me change my mind on upping the lift

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The problem with 33/10.50/15s with stock style lower arms is that they hit on corners. WJ lower arms are the way to go because they curve inwards to allow room for wider tires. I had them on my truck with SOA rear and 6 1/2" TJ coils in front (for better ride. Closer to 5" lift) with an adjustable trac bar. I went back to the 33/9.50/15s and it's peachy keen!

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I'm mostly function over form also, but i have a problem with trimmed fenders i think its an easy way out and doesnt look very good. just not my style there. id be fine with 33/9.5s also i want the tires to tuck in fender well seeing how the truck will see alot of trail use

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