88AMComanche Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 On an 88 comanche, 4.0 .. 5 speed. I replaced my clucth master cylender (slave)? It worked great for about a week, but i kept getting wetness on my carpet behind the fuseblock. So......I found a micro sized small leak coming from around the threads on the main line going into the cylender. It was pretty dirty but i did wire brush the threads before screwing them into the cylender. Now its a week later & even though Ive removed the cap & slowly bled the system, and it worked great for a week with good solid clutch pedal , Last few days its very spuratic & innermittened. Might have half a pedal, it may go stright to the floor & won't disengage trhe clutch. Can anyone please give me a pointer or two on how to solve this problem?? I'm having to power shift just about everywhere i go & I'm aT THE end of my rope. When i bled the sytem,I didnt see any bubbles at all. The fluid goes UP a little when pressing the pedal, & back down to the full line. I'm CONFUSED. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Master-on fire wall Slave-on transmission Replaced the master? Where did you get it? "Micro sized leak"-no sized leak is acceptable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88AMComanche Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 Sorry bout that ....Its the Master up on the firewall,next to the break booster. It holds the brake fluid for the clutch. I got it at advance auto. Its the only one I could find and have it within a day. Its an almost exact replica match & the part number is for my truck.. Worked perfect for about a week,now I'm back to having to pump them up & every 5 pumps i might get a 1/4 pedal if that. Master-on fire wal Slave-on transmission Replaced the master? Where did you get it? "Micro sized leak"-no sized leak is acceptable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88AMComanche Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 The micro sizeded leak I found was where the line screws into the cylinder at the top. It leaked just enough so you couldnt see it,but with your finger feeling around the threaeded area you would get a dampness of brake fluid on your finger., So I took my small wrnch and got a 16th of a turn on it tighter, then took the cap off & slowly pressed the pedal to the floor about 12 times each time coming up slowly. Felt like i had decent pedal......but the next orning it went right to the floor again. So severely frusterated with the whole truck. Ive spent a year redoing all kinds of things on it,from the fender to steering columnb to heater core, to rust removal, to welding to Ac duct work, to remving the entire interior to windshield replace etc. Now this pesky clutch pedal problem. Ugh Master-on fire wall Slave-on transmission Replaced the master? Where did you get it? "Micro sized leak"-no sized leak is acceptable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Are you still losing fluid? Internal or external slave? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallisek Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 I too found a small leak this weekend, though in a different place. My leak is coming from the monkey engineered plastic coupler thing midway from the master to the slave. I ran across this thread posted by TerraWombat (great writeup and pics, thanks Terra) :thumbsup: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=30530&start=0 Writeup shows what you need to replace the existing clutch line with some nice -3AN braided stainless. I found all the parts needed on summitracing.com for $43 + S&H. If you go this route, just make sure you buy the right master cylinder adapter, there are two types. Up to 1991 is the screw in type so technically all MJ owners would have this unless they did a master cylinder swap. Threaded fitting on master is P/N 716130 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADD-716130F/ 48" braided stainless line with 90 deg bend http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-63011748ERL/ -3AN male to 7/16"-24 female adatper http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-989549ERL/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88AMComanche Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 I'm not aware of any plastic coupler thing halfway to the slave cylinder, but will double check that tomorrow when its light out. Right now I'm thouroughly disghusted with the leak issue.I don't see how it can come from the screw in Thread part top of the cylinder.I tightened it good,but when i found it had a slight leak,I went another 16th of a turn even & still its leaking.I doubt plumbers tape(teflon) would work due to brake fluid desolves about everything including teflon probably. I too found a small leak this weekend, though in a different place. My leak is coming from the monkey engineered plastic coupler thing midway from the master to the slave. I ran across this thread posted by TerraWombat (great writeup and pics, thanks Terra) :thumbsup: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=30530&start=0 Writeup shows what you need to replace the existing clutch line with some nice -3AN braided stainless. I found all the parts needed on summitracing.com for $43 + S&H. If you go this route, just make sure you buy the right master cylinder adapter, there are two types. Up to 1991 is the screw in type so technically all MJ owners would have this unless they did a master cylinder swap. Threaded fitting on master is P/N 716130 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADD-716130F/ 48" braided stainless line with 90 deg bend http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-63011748ERL/ -3AN male to 7/16"-24 female adatper http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-989549ERL/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88AMComanche Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 Internal s;ave , i think ...The line goes from the master along the firewall,down to the drvr side tranny then a sharp turn Into the tranny. Theres also a short piece of brake line coming OUT right next to it about 4 inches long. Think I'm losing fluid up my the master though. Are you still losing fluid? Internal or external slave? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2360 Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Long time ago I replaced my clutch clyinder. It leaked. After :mad: and few weeks of stress. I just really laid into the attaching nut. Hasn't leaked since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88AMComanche Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 Ive tightened mine to where the 11mm small wrench started to slip,gumming up the nut even more. But it was still starting to put a lotta pressure against the master cylinder with how tight I had it even then. ..I didnt wanna A:Round off the threaded nut , or B: damage something by pushing too hard against the Master cylinder. ....I figured it should be tight enough but hmm ...Did you use an 11mm? small wrnch or bigger one? just wondering because maybe, just maybe it can be tightened a slight bit more if I use a slightly bigger wrench. Long time ago I replaced my clutch clyinder. It leaked. After :mad: and few weeks of stress. I just really laid into the attaching nut. Hasn't leaked since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88AMComanche Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 Ive tightened mine to where the 11mm small wrench started to slip,gumming up the nut even more. But it was still starting to put a lotta pressure against the master cylinder with how tight I had it even then. ..I didnt wanna A:Round off the threaded nut , or B: damage something by pushing too hard against the Master cylinder. ....I figured it should be tight enough but hmm ...Did you use an 11mm? small wrnch or bigger one? just wondering because maybe, just maybe it can be tightened a slight bit more if I use a slightly bigger wrench. ...I'm at 3 weeks of stress hell as it is already & still suckin air into the system somehow. Long time ago I replaced my clutch clyinder. It leaked. After :mad: and few weeks of stress. I just really laid into the attaching nut. Hasn't leaked since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88AMComanche Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 BLEEDING THE MASTER CYLINDER FOR THE CLUTCH IS NOT MAKING ANY SENSE. AIR FLOWS UP,NOT DOWN ......SO WHY WHEN WE BLEED THE CLUCTH MASTER CYLINDER WOULD WE OPEN A BLEEDER NIPPLE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE TRUCK?? WHY WOULDNT THE BUBBLES JUST GO UP NATURALLY TO THE RESERVIOUR? THIS HAS ME CONFUSED,TRYING TO BLEED THE AIR OUT FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE TRUCK,ALL THAT COMES OUT IS BRAKE FLUID,UNLESS I'm MISSING SOMETHING. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cz777 Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 please don't cry !! replace both cylinders with lines !! when i got my MJ years ago i did this one!!!pain but worth it !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2360 Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Did you use an 11mm? small wrench or bigger one? Sorry but it was years ago and I don't recall which wrench I used. Wouldn't rule out of having used 3/8's or something. I might of even used a huge adjustable wrench for leverage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88AMComanche Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 Thanx ..I'm just gonna swap out my 3 week old Master for a new one. This one kinda feels like possibly i may have blown the seal out./ probably from pumping it 327840982741 times trying to bleed it. Did you use an 11mm? small wrench or bigger one? Sorry but it was years ago and I don't recall which wrench I used. Wouldn't rule out of having used 3/8's or something. I might of even used a huge adjustable wrench for leverage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratrapp Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 jusr replace the m/c.we just put a new clutch,flywheel,master and slave cylinder in my friends 88 toyota p/u.everything came from advance.after 2 months he would have to pump the pedal every morning to get it in gear and then it was fine the rest of the day.we replaced the m/c again and it's fine now.thankfully thats what they make warrantys for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88AMComanche Posted July 29, 2011 Author Share Posted July 29, 2011 UPDATE: Ive swapped out to ANOTHER new Master cylinder ....still can't get the system bled. And the threaded area/Line still stays damp with brake fluid. ....SO,ive ordered a whole nother Clucth line to replace the old one ....hopefully with a new master AND new line it won't leak, which I HOPE will help in successfully bleeding the system. But since the thing started when i bumped the key & slammed me into atree & totalled my tailgate,I'm pretty fedup with the truck because its very very high maintenence. But I will install the new line & bleed the system completely & go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88AMComanche Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 UPDATE: I have now swapped out the new master, for ANOTHER new master .Plus i have anew clucth line on its way .......Word to anyone with an even Slightly bad or worn clutch line...They are extremely hard to find. Amazon had one but its subject to B/O & a delay in shipping, Company out of france supplies them but they too are Out of stock. Found a guy on Ebay had 2 of them ....Now he has 1 ;) Thanx ..I'm just gonna swap out my 3 week old Master for a new one. This one kinda feels like possibly i may have blown the seal out./ probably from pumping it 327840982741 times trying to bleed it. Did you use an 11mm? small wrench or bigger one? Sorry but it was years ago and I don't recall which wrench I used. Wouldn't rule out of having used 3/8's or something. I might of even used a huge adjustable wrench for leverage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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