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So, what's the best CHEAP shocks?

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I don't consider $29 retail expensive. Call Alex up and I bet he might even come down in price if you order four.


Look here....





Oh, when I looked in the shock category all that was listed was ranchos overpriced crap. Guess I missed that.

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Forklift is the standard practice. You're supposed to flex it out to determine not only needed travel but the mounting location.




If you're running a fab shop, great. If you aren't, you go by what other people did or guessing.



For 6" lift using the stock mounts in the front end, 12" is just about ideal. But, it depends where you want to put your bumpstops (if you've cut fenders, run large tires for the lift, etc).

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Jack the truck up and measure the distance from the bump stops to axle, and that's how much travel you need in a shock.


I think I remember 10" lift shocks for new Ford F-350s being 14" travel and cheap.




That works for droop, but, the axle will downtravel more (on each side) while flexing.



I was suggested the F-350 shocks. But, anything that's not OEM has to be ordered in either way, so I might as well get the PORC shocks.



Another option is monroes, #34687 is a 13" travel shock. But, that would require moving the axle mount up... Blah. If nobody local comes up with something used I'll call PORC and ask about shipping.

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I always try and set up suspension with about 25% up travel and 75% droop. Meaning all but 1" of the shock travel is being used up on full compression (bumpstops touching).


I don't have access to a fork truck so I do it like this...


When building the front suspension I hook up all the control arms and pull the coils out. Mount one of front tires. Jack up that side until the tire is within 1" of touching the fender (after final fender cutting). If the bumpstops aren't touching the distance that remains between them is how much bumpstop needs to be added. For instance if you jack it up and the tire is 1" from the fender and there is a 2" gap between the bumpstops I add 2" to the bumpstops so that they touch when the tire is 1" away from the fender.


Now the bumpstops are right and I move on to shocks.


With the new bumpstops in I fully compress that side of the suspension again (with or without the tire on)(doesn't matter because the bumpstops are right now!) Next I measure the distance between the shock mounts. I add 1" to this measurement. That gives me the compressed length of the shock. Next you fully droop that side of suspension and measure the distance between the shock mounts. This gives me the extended length of the shock. Now I know what size shocks to order.


When ordering shocks I usually look for one that has the compressed length that I am needing and whatever travel shock that ends up being is whatever it is.


This method of setting up front suspensions gives you most ideal setup. It sets your bumpstops so your tires don't hit. It gives you the most ideal shock for your suspension height that will give you the most droop possible and gives you a shock that isn't too long or too short.


I always hate to see nicely built long arm setups where people are running shocks that are way too short. It drastically reduced the amount of droop that they could be getting out of their front end. I have a buddy with a TJ who installed a Full Traction long arm and installed the shocks that they sent with the kit. The shocks were obviously from a smaller lift kit because they were way short for his 6" lift. This caused his front suspension to only droop a limited amount. He could not use the suspension to it's full potential until we measured for the correct shock. After buying the right length shock it flexes amazing!


Shew.... tired of typing now. :cheers:

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