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Steering Box Brace


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Cheap insurance, if you run bigger tires, and run off-road a lot.

 

Way cheaper easier than fixing busted cracked frame in the steering box mounting area.

 

I aint doing it on the Chief cause I'm only running 31s, spend most time on the street,

 

but the 87 is getting 33s and all the goodies. It will definitely get more beef there, whether from a brace

 

or a beefy bumper that is tied in to steering box bolts :dunno:

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I'm in same boat with you, i don't know if i need get steering box brace, btw my mj is lifted 6" with 35" tires and will see offroading someday so I'm think that i should get brace too.

 

Just the 35" tires is enough reason for it even if it never went offroad.

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Is this something that would help out even with the Unibody bumper tie-ins?

 

 

i think the tie-ins are basicly the same thing as a brace. not only does it hold the bumper better/make the front end stouter but I'm thinking ups the strength on the steering box/frame connection as well. made me feel a hell of a lot better when i bolted in those tie-ins i got with my JCR bumper

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Well it looks like from what Wade and a few others have told me I should be looking into reinforcing the steering box mounts (which can be done with my front bumper mounts)  and getting a steering box spacer be for a brace. Wade gave me a good pic of the spacer here:

http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/SteeringBoxSpacerCompare.jpg

 

And of a reinforced mount here 

http://http://www.c-rok.com/ff.html

 

So I think I'm going to do that. Thanks for the help again guys!

 

Brandon

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I'm in the middle of developing a set of plates that will serve a dual purpose - frame reinforcement around the steering box and front tow recovery points. It kind of combines the idea of the C-ROK plate and $500MJ's front tow brackets. It would be made from either 3/16" or 1/4" steel plate. There would be a similar plate on the passenger side and a piece of square box tube welded between both plates and I'm looking into the idea of mounting a receiver hitch behind the license plate and using a YJ-style spring-loaded flip down to hide the receiver.

 

 

Only picture I have so far. I ran out of material and haven't been able to get to my local metal supplier to get more to finish the prototyping. Working a 9-5 is no fun.

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I'm in the middle of developing a set of plates that will serve a dual purpose - frame reinforcement around the steering box and front tow recovery points. It kind of combines the idea of the C-ROK plate and $500MJ's front tow brackets. It would be made from either 3/16" or 1/4" steel plate. There would be a similar plate on the passenger side and a piece of square box tube welded between both plates and I'm looking into the idea of mounting a receiver hitch behind the license plate and using a YJ-style spring-loaded flip down to hide the receiver.

 

 

Only picture I have so far. I ran out of material and haven't been able to get to my local metal supplier to get more to finish the prototyping. Working a 9-5 is no fun.

 

 

You should extend them back to that next sleeved hole,you have them on both sides and they will make your recovery points a lot stronger.

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You should extend them back to that next sleeved hole,you have them on both sides and they will make your recovery points a lot stronger.

 

Didn't have a piece of 1/4" plate long enough for it so I omitted that hole for now. I have a design that incorporates it and once I can get some more 1/4" plate, I'll throw it on there.

 

I've done Finite Element calculations on the plate with and without that additional hole and the difference in strength isn't as significant as you might think.

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I wouldn't expect a huge strength gain on the drivers side by having the other bolt,I think the major gains will be on the passenger side since its the only real mounting point on that side and being sleeved has to make a big gain in strength as well.

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I wouldn't expect a huge strength gain on the drivers side by having the other bolt,I think the major gains will be on the passenger side since its the only real mounting point on that side and being sleeved has to make a big gain in strength as well.

 

My passenger side mounts require that two new holes be drilled in the frame and sleeved.

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I wouldn't think that would be neccesary,the holes that are there should be more then adequate.

 

But adding more can't hurt :wrench:

 

It became more of a matter of saving material. Stretching a 1/4" plate all the way back to that lone, threaded bolt hole on the passenger side seemed wasteful to me. Not so bad on the drivers side since you can tie it into the steering box for extra reinforcement.

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