hoggz Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 looking for a way to run brake lines from the brake block after removal of the rear proportioning valve. what do you do with the port that the return line from the proportioning valve went to in the front of the block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechion Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 I have seen it done two ways, without changing over to a XJ proportioner that is. One was a guy who brought the two lines out to a "T" tied them together, and ran one line from there back. The other simply put a pipe plug of the appropriate size into one of the two holes on the distribution block and ran a single line from the other. (the furthest forward one is the one being used and the second from the front being capped if I remember correctly) Both setups worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 looking for a way to run brake lines from the brake block after removal of the rear proportioning valve. what do you do with the port that the return line from the proportioning valve went to in the front of the block? I think you have it reversed. The line from the "nose" of the front metering block is the full-time port for the rear brakes. The forward of the two outlet ports on the bottom of the front metering block is the port for the emergency bypass. If you have eliminated the rear height-sensing valve, you don't need a second line and should plug the forward outlet on the bottom of the metering block. It takes (IIRC) a 1/2" FINE thread, but you'll have to cut it down to about 1/2" or 3/8" in length to get a neat job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 I was able to find a plug for the port at the auto parts store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91coMANche Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 If the one port is plugged then the stock line to the rear can remain with only the necessary modifications in the rear to avoid the valve, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoggz Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 ended up using a 3/8 fitting and welding the end of it shut works great.plugged the front lower port of the modulating valve and bled the rears with the drivers front caliper bleeder open and a tube running into A bottle of fluid the caliper bled itself at the same time that i was doing the rears worked like a charm now i just gotta adjust the rear shoes so they don't lock up got the info from archives thanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 I know i saw a diagram a day or so ago of a cut away of the front Prop Valve. I'm gonna be digging into replacing the rear lines tonight and tomorrow. If i was to elmiminate this thing is it the front port that needs capped off, or the very bottom port? Can anyone show me a diagram of what lines i excatly need to tie together to elmiminate that rear Prop. Valve? Thanks for the help! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 the bottom one is the emergency bypass line. note that I screwed up which one I capped first. :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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