gaucho919 Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Hi, I'm installing a Ford 8.8 in the Comanche, Looking to fit 33x10.5 A/Ts. Sort of undecided on lift height, I'd like to do a spring over for the added ground clearance however I don't want it to be unnecessarily tall, what would be the best rear suspension setup to fit 33x10.50s? If I was to go with a spring over what would be the angle the spring perches need to be welded at in relation to the pinion? the truck is a shortbed. I don't have a drivetrain in it so there is no way for me to check, thanks Gents Jeep on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTswampyankee Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 I Have a spring over on mine with stock 2wd leafs an 1 overload leaf added on off my 4x4 parts truck. The front has 4.5in spring an 1.75 spacers and sits almoast dead level. AS for the pinion i just kinda eye balled it an have it just down from streight on with the drive shaft. Drove mint on my long bed, but havent driven it on my short bed. My rear is a factory dana 44 with weld on perches. here's a pic with 31. will easy clear 33s all day long Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaucho919 Posted March 31, 2011 Author Share Posted March 31, 2011 what would be the best way to get less lift with a spring over, say 4"? I hear XJ's have shorter shackles, that would bring down a bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTswampyankee Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 I'm not realy shure. I started with a rustys 4.5in SOA compleat lift kit. Was a spring over in the rear. I was verry happy how it came out on my other truck other than i left lift add a leafs in the rear an it sat a little higher in the rear. I drove the truck every day for 6 months, every thing from highway to serioes trail beating. Putting over 10k miles on it. Drove and handled great! I do know stock 2wd MJs rear springs are around 1in lower than 4x4s. Also the rustys kit has a choise of spring purches for axle. I know 8.8 ford is an option. For 33s i deff go with the spring over. here's a pic of my old MJ with a spring over, weak 3in lift add a leafs an 4.5in fron lift Kinda a bad pic since its flexed out a bit. and its 31s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Fitting 33s depends how you use your truck and how much trimming you want to do. If you don't care about flex you can do it with as little as 3" but if you want flex you want to be 5"to6+" You also know your gonna have to run wheel spacers with the 8.8" axle, as for perches it would be best to get a drive train in there so you can see where your at and set it up correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garvin Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 6.5" is about ideal for 33's if you want to flex, might need to trim a tad for full stuff. As mnkyboy said, it all matters what you want to do and how much trimming. I have a buddy that has a 3" lift on their Cherokee with 36's, but that XJ is hacked to all hell to fit them (same concept and can actually trim more on the Comanche rear than an XJ without major fab work). If you really want to do SOA but only want about 4" of lift, Cherokee shackles are about an inch lower. SOA gives anywhere between 5-6" of lift, depending on how much the springs are sagging (I gained close to 6" on my '86 MJ). Until the drive train gets put in, you can bolt the axle under the Jeep with the perches in the middle so you can roll it around. Once the drive train gets dropped in, then you would be able to actually set up the angle. Each Jeep is slightly differently with the SOA in the rear. Your best bet is to dial in your lift height then figure out the angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaucho919 Posted March 31, 2011 Author Share Posted March 31, 2011 Thank you, reason why i'm not trying to go too high is I'd like a stable ride, my TJ is lifted 6" and a lot had to be done in order to make it stable. Say I bought some metric tonne springs from hellcreek, put them over the axle with XJ shackles, should be about 4.5" lift right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Keep this in mind,the rear sits 1.5 or so higher then the front stock. SOA will only give you about 5" of lift but most people want their truck level,it takes 6-6.5" to do this. If you went soa and 4.5 to 5" up front your truck will have about the same rake as stock. FWIW my MJ at 6.5" is far more stable then my moms TJ at 3" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkbruin Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 To answer the original post/question: If you are keeping the slip yoke, keep the pinion and the t-case outputs parallel. If you are going CV/SYE, point the pinion at the case. Also... you will need a longer driveshaft with SOA. The factory shaft will go in, but barely. When I did my SOA, when I was driving on the highway for the first time after I hit a gentle riser, but it lifted the rear enough to disengage the shaft from the t-case. BOOM, there goes the rear axle. Grabbed another axle to put in, and had a local drag race shop build a custom shaft for the proper length (total cost for the new shaft was ~$125, it was BEEFY and included high angle yokes). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 You must of had more then just soa,I've never heard of anybody having that issue with just an soa. I've been running mine soa with the stock shaft for a couple years and the trucks been airborne with no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkbruin Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 You must of had more then just soa,I've never heard of anybody having that issue with just an soa. I've been running mine soa with the stock shaft for a couple years and the trucks been airborne with no problems. Nope. Bone stock parts. factory shackles, factory springs, factory 231, XJ 35 rear at the time the event happened. Check the depth of your spline engagement at the yoke. Its not much at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 That's weird, I've lifted mine with a forklift and even at full droop it looks ok,once I get the D44 in there its gonna be even better. Wonder if your truck had the wrong shaft,maybe one from a truck with a d44,its just strange that lots of people have soa with stock shafts with no issues but yours had a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkbruin Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 For reference, here is how I sat: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 What size tires are those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Instead of beating a deadhorse and making another thread I'll just ask here.. If I'm keeping my stock driveshaft and welding on new perches what's the pinion angle suppose to be? About 2 degrees ^ ??? Also where's the cheapest place to order axle side shock mounts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Instead of beating a deadhorse and making another thread I'll just ask here.. If I'm keeping my stock driveshaft and welding on new perches what's the pinion angle suppose to be? About 2 degrees ^ ??? Actually -2* in relation to the plane of the engine tranny centerline. Allows for pinion climb. The angle is relative, if you measure your angle on a 4* hill, you will still have a measurement that is 2* less than that. To answer the original post/question: If you are keeping the slip yoke, keep the pinion and the t-case outputs parallel. If you are going CV/SYE, point the pinion at the case. Also... you will need a longer driveshaft with SOA. The factory shaft will go in, but barely. When I did my SOA, when I was driving on the highway for the first time after I hit a gentle riser, but it lifted the rear enough to disengage the shaft from the t-case. BOOM, there goes the rear axle. Grabbed another axle to put in, and had a local drag race shop build a custom shaft for the proper length (total cost for the new shaft was ~$125, it was BEEFY and included high angle yokes). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Didn't think of that! Makes sense now thanks! :waving: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naterenfo1 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 I've also been considering doing an SOA with a 95+ Explorer 31 spline disc brake rear end and this post has raised a couple questions for me. What is the benefit of a SYE over a traditional 2 piece? Will a stock master cylinder push enough juice to rear discs? Will I need to get a custom driveshaft? or will a stock driveshaft be plenty? If anyone has any pics or info of an 8.8 swap they have done, speak up please! :wrench: -Nate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 After making my pinion angle 2* on the driver side after my soa and going trough a joint within a month I'd actually set the pinion angle at 4* I'm putting in 2* shims soon and will let you knowguys howthat works out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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