JeepNewb Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 So i'm looking to go with a 6" lift and am wondering if i should either go with adjustable lower arms only or if i should get upper and lowers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camjeep3 Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 at six inches you NEED to get new upper and lower arms. adjustable is always better. at six inches you will have steep angles( like mine) nothing wrong with it really it just doesnt ride as good. you could add some drop brackets to help. or go full long arm. you will also need new shocks, brakelines, as well as a new trackbar. for the rear you can just do a springover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 Realistically, if you are going 6", you are in long arm territory to do it correctly. You WILL NEED both upper and lower adjustable arms AND drop brackets to work with short arms on a 6". Not cheap to lift. Maybe you want to start with a 3" since your admittantly new to the Jeep arena, and should start slow. Have to walk before you run brotha. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTswampyankee Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 I'm going to be running a rustys 4.5in lift with 1.75 spacers on mine, for 6.25in lift. Just installed it today with the stock uppers an fixed lowers from the 4.5 kit. Seems to be ok for now... but have not driven it yet. :dunce: I'm only running it like this untill i switch to long arms in a cupple months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 Adjustable uppers help you dial in your pinion angle. Adjustable lower arms are used to set the wheelbase (bring the tire back, closer to the center of the wheel well), then you lengthen the uppers for the best pinion angle/caster compromise. Keep in mind though, all the length you add to your lowers, to re-center the tire in the wheel at the new ride height is going to do it's best to jam your tire into the ft of the wheel well as the suspension fully compresses. (watch your ft diff to frame-side-trac-bar-bracket clearance too, with the lowers set too long you can smack the cover off some brackets). That's one of the reasons long arms are better at 6". MUCH less wheelbase change as the suspension cycles through it's travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepNewb Posted March 9, 2011 Author Share Posted March 9, 2011 Is it possible to run long arms in the stock lower arm mounts?? Or do new mounts have to be made?? How many inches can i expect from just a SOA lift in the rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepNewb Posted March 9, 2011 Author Share Posted March 9, 2011 Soo i just answered my own question about long arms.......lol. I'm thinking i may take the advice and start with a 3 or 4" but i want it to be level front to rear, any good places for parts and recommendations on what to go with?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 I am going with 4.5" I ordered new spring packs from http://www.hellcreeksuspensions.com/ I pieced together the front of my lift. I have RE 4.5" springs, and the RE HD trac bar and bracket with the trac bar brace that I got used. Then I ordered Rough Country adjustable upper and lower control arms with shocks and a steering stabilizer. I also got a set of new JKS quick discos from someone on the board. I am going to use the YJ front brake lines and the 95 dakota rear brake line. If you are patient you can piece together a good lift for cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 what are you looking to use your truck for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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