flint54 Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Just got the Chr 8.25 bolted in, and noticed the front yoke is tight against the T-case seal. Not good. Read the 5 page thread on D shaft lengths which confirmed that my axle assy is 1" longer than the old D35. The chance of finding the right shaft in the JY is probably very close to zero. My old shaft is pretty pitted, so shortening doesn't make much sense. Any recommendations? Am I going to have this issue again when I swap out the 231 for a 242? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 I have a similar problem. I installed a 8.25 and then bought a brand new shaft to fit. And then I swapped in an AW4 and a 242 and now its too long. Do you have an auto or 5 speed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 It's super cheap to get a driveshaft shortened. I had it done for like $30 at Six States. Shorted, balanced, and they even cleaned and painted it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Sorry, I forgot the specs: 4.0 HO, AX-15, NP231 (242 coming) Yes, I know it-can-be shortened, but this shaft spent the first 16 years of life in the chloride-infested MA region and is heavily pitted. Doesn't make sense to keep it now that I have the "opportunity" to do something else. I'm looking for either, the correct original shaft in great shape, or recommendations on which aftermarket shaft to pursue (on limited budget). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 I got mine from Tom Woods. It wasn't cheap, but it was quick and I don't have good access to a decent drive shaft shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 I got mine from Tom Woods. It wasn't cheap, but it was quick and I don't have good access to a decent drive shaft shop. Did the same. The sheathing on my original was decomposed and it couldn't be balanced. The Woods shaft was 50% lighter, 50% stronger, and as I recall it was a little over $200 shipped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 Good leads. 50% lighter, 50% stronger, and $200 I can live with. I assume I'll need to give them dimensions, and hopefully I can select a length that will accommodate the NP231 and the NP242 as I don't yet know whether the T-case swap will affect the D-shaft length. They will probably know. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 For a quick and effective fix you can redrill the spring perch forward 1 inch to move the axle back so the drive shaft fits . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 For a quick and effective fix you can redrill the spring perch forward 1 inch to move the axle back so the drive shaft fits . Effective? You change the wheelbase and the wheels are no longer centered in the well. Doesn't make much sense to me. Agree it's a quick solution, albeit the wrong one IMHO. :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1tonMJ Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Just got the Chr 8.25 bolted in, and noticed the front yoke is tightagainst the T-case seal. Not good. Read the 5 page thread on D shaft lengths which confirmed that my axle assy is 1" longer than the old D35. The chance of finding the right shaft in the JY is probably very close to zero. My old shaft is pretty pitted, so shortening doesn't make much sense. Any recommendations? Am I going to have this issue again when I swap out the 231 for a 242? Pretty much the only option you left out: Buy New. Pricey, yeah, but you'll probably only have to do it once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 RE: re-drilling perches. That would be a good fix, if I didn't already have replacement in mind. I'm going to get the Woods DS, after I can figure out the T-case dimension change (if any) from 231 to 242. The Woods folks did not know whether there was a difference. Sooo, I'm asking all of you: Do any of you presently have the NP242 behind an AX-15 on the 4.0 HO and willing to make a measurement for me? What I need to learn is the distance from mounting plane between transmission and T-case, to the end of the tailstock housing where the seal is. That dimension on the NP231 is 16.5 inches. Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Sent you a PM! As far as the length goes, just mock it all up with your slip yoke in place and measure. Just make sure you leave some slip room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Good leads. 50% lighter, 50% stronger, and $200 I can live with. The $200 was quite a few years ago - I'm sure the price is more now, as it is with everything. :( I'm going to get the Woods DS, after I can figure out the T-case dimension change (if any) from 231 to 242. The Woods folks did not know whether there was a difference. Sooo, I'm asking all of you: Do any of you presently have the NP242 behind an AX-15 on the 4.0 HO and willing to make a measurement for me? What I need to learn is the distance from mounting plane between transmission and T-case, to the end of the tailstock housingwhere the seal is. That dimension on the NP231 is 16.5 inches. Thanks!! If you don't get a reply, wait until you get everything bolted in then do the measurement from u-joint cap to u-joint cap. He gets the driveshafts out quickly, within three days. EDIT: I see Rymanrph has sent a PM. Hopefully he fixed you up. :clapping: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now