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What are pros/cons of this axle?


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Perches would need to be cut off and new ones welded on in the right place, and an adapter of some sort to mate your drive shaft to the 8.8 mounting flange. May possibly need to shorten your drive shaft as well.

 

Even so, I would not bother putting another 35 in, unless it is from an MJ (only straight bolt-in) and was given to me for free with nothing wrong with it. I would look for a D44 from an MJ first, which would be a straight bolt-in, but may still need to shorten the drive shaft, or a D44 from a 90 or older XJ Cherokee or Chrysler 8.25 from a 97 or newer one. Both of those need the perches moved and possibly the drive shaft shortened, but they are the correct width and have the correct yoke for your drive shaft.

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The adapter is found on the driveshaft from any Ford that had the 8.8. It even uses the same u-joint as jeep driveshafts. Don't be too quick to buy an axle that is missing brake parts, unless it has really low mileage and a limited slip. Edit: it's got the limited slip but had drum brakes, you should be able to find one that has disks.

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I've decided to pass on the above 8.8. I can get a D44 (XJ) with 3.54 ratio for about $300. It is complete except for the brake lines. I can also get the MJ D35 with 3.55 from a wrecked 86 for less than $150. If I get the 44, what type of shop would I contact to shorten my driveshaft and/or weld perches in the proper positions?

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You can remove the old perches yourself with an angle grinder. Any fabrication or exhaust shop should be able to weld new perches on.

 

Shortening a driveshaft has to be done by a drive train shop, as they have the equipment to rebalance it after the work is done.

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