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Ya know, I have never had this issue with a Jeep. Rigs from 12K miles to 200K miles, the lug nuts always come right off with the proper sized impact socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.

 

If you are noticing excessive corrosion on the stud or lug nut a dab of low strength lock-tite or anti-seize should stop that from happening. Remember, torque to 85-100 ftlbs. I would also imagine the cheapo replacement lug nuts will will round their corners making it difficult to remove. Make sure you are using the right sized tool to remove the lug nuts, because if they have been replaced, there is no guarantee they are the same size (my truck had 3 different sized lug nuts on it when I bought it).

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  • 3 months later...

Just buy the better lug nuts. Mcguards are the manufacturer of the better nuts. please do not put anti-seize on the studs. I work at the local Dodge chrysler Jeep dealership and we get vehicles "mostly ram 2500's and wranglers in all the time with broken wheel studs and wobling wheels because there was anti-seize on the studs. now you "HAVE" to replace the studs and some wheels get beat up beyond the point of saving. i don't know why it makes such an inpact. most likely the reduction in needed torquing due to lubrication of the threads. just spend the cash, get the lug nuts and a wire brush clean the studs and torque them on. it will be cheaper and less of a headache than loosing a wheel. granted we do see alot of vehicles come in with never seze on the studs that don't have a problem. but deffinatly more problems than not.

 

p.s. this is bob co-owner of the 87 comanche laredo. dodge, chrysler, jeep certified technician.

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please do not put anti-seize on the studs. I work at the local Dodge chrysler Jeep dealership and we get vehicles "mostly ram 2500's and wranglers in all the time with broken wheel studs and wobling wheels because there was anti-seize on the studs.

I seriously doubt any studs were broken because of anti-seize. First, very few people ever think to use it on wheel studs. Second, I have been using it on all my vehicles for more than 40 years and I have never broken a stud. Ditto for my brother.

 

It is much more common to see broken studs because there ISN'T anti-seize. The lug nut rusts onto the stud, then when the "technician" hits it with a shop-strength air impact wrench it just shears off the stud.

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I believe the caps on those lugs are stainless steel. Personally I like them very much and think they are very good quality. They can separate after 25 years of wear. I wanted to get better ones too so I bought some new Jeep lugs just like what I had.

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I'm also a Chrysler Dodge Jeep dealer tech, and I have never had an issue using anti seize on wheel studs. I rotate my tires every oil change and have never seen a loose lug nut that was torqued on properly to begin with. I don't reduce the torque to put them on though either. During some aspects of engine building, they tell you to lubricate the threads before torquing in order to get full torque applied to the object youre working on, because if it were dry, some of the torque would be lost to friction during assembly. The same should apply here, a little lube will allow the full torque to be applied to the studs, and then be easier to remove again later. Just my 2 cents.

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I seriously doubt any studs were broken because of anti-seize. First, very few people ever think to use it on wheel studs. Second, I have been using it on all my vehicles for more than 40 years and I have never broken a stud. Ditto for my brother.

 

It is much more common to see broken studs because there ISN'T anti-seize. The lug nut rusts onto the stud, then when the "technician" hits it with a shop-strength air impact wrench it just shears off the stud.

 

I've never used anti-seize on wheel studs for 40 years and never broken a wheel stud either. Guess it depends where you line and how often you take the wheels off. I use it religiously on spark plugs though.

 

"the technician" hits it with a shop-strength air impact wrench it just shears off the stud :yes: Probably a "certified" technician too. The olde saving time makes $$ syndrome.

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i guess ill just drill out the wheel studs and replace them

 

I guess I'm not understanding the question. Why would you "drill out" the studs?? Are the nuts stuck on there??

 

The covers are just for show. If they're coming off you need to use a smaller wrench on what's left...the "real" nut.

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