dishdude Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 What do I need too do to put 35" Tires on my Manche? Have heard lots of stuff. I really need to just talk to someone with a brain so I can stop chasing my tail! I don't mind cutting stuff. I just don't know where to start. :evil: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 I believe you need to worry about axle strength with 35's. Ask Patrick(pingpong). I think he's got 35s. I'm pretty sure he's mentioned breaking a few front shafts on his d30 until he upgraded it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 Don't buy the rusty's long arm kit. Expect to be swapping axles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabz Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 Don't buy the rusty's long arm kit. Expect to be swapping axles. Whats wrong with the rustys LA kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 Don't buy the rusty's long arm kit. Expect to be swapping axles. Whats wrong with the rustys LA kit? Lots. They can't weld; which is somewhat disturbing on suspension componenets. Nor can they powdercoat, or perhaps they can, but choose to powdercoat rusted metal. While powdercoat isn't a big deal for me, as I am a spraycan junkie, however it's still sloppy for what you pay. The whole crossmember which the arms bolt onto, is held in place by essentially the stock hardware. Yeah, the kit comes with unibody tie in plates, but it still is going to come down to the 4 M8X1.5s (8.8) that are threaded into the stock nutserts (is that the right term?). Or maybe they aren't the weak point, maybe it's the 2 Gr5 5/8" bolts that hold the f'ing arms to the crossmember. I am sorry if I come off as an a$$hole, but for however much it is I spent, couldn't they have used Gr8 hardware? That and the design sucks, as the arm mounts hang down below the crossmember, so there's no advantage to it as far as ground clearance goes in comparsion with any of the other kits. The tie in plate crap is a joke too. I just think it's blah. I'm sure people will tell me "It's strong enough" and "You won't break that" but that's not the point. I feel it's quite lackluster for the price. That and it's not likely to be just my safety on the line, if one of my suspension arms fails at high speeds, and either a passanger of mine, or somebody who is not in my truck, gets hurt - I ain't gonna be happy; to say the least. Oh, BTW, it won't really fit an MJ, it seems. I could have made it fit by enlarging a bunch of the bolt holes, but I don't really feel like it. So, I'm going to sleeve the unibody correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 My recommendations: step down to 33s, upgrade the front axleshafts and ujoints with later model XJ parts to get the Dana 44 size joints, upgrade the rear axle to a Dana 44 or Ford 8.8, and get better gears so you can push the big tires around. There may be some other issues but that depends on the details of your truck. Jeep on! --Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 I am slightly biased because I know the man behind the kit and I have seen them being fabricated, but IMHO the only way to go long arm is Clayton's kit. The crossmember is massive, and the end supports get welded to the heaviest section of the two uniframe "rails." Clayton designed his setup not to sell, but to run on his own rig and not break. Knowing how he wheels, that means for most people it is massively over-designed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 In order to run 35's and to make the parts around last takes a lil work. First alloy shafts upfront, or a D44. Then a rear end that can hold up to the wieght and traction. I personally run a 8.8. As for the suspension setup, SOA in the rear, with whatever springs and shocks you care for. I went with a Set of Alcan's, with 2" built into them. As for the front, I went with a Terraflex Long arm kit. No it isnt the fanciest, but for what it is, it works great, and didnt cost me 700 bucks. It only cost me 220 to my door, and works great. (keep in mind I was just upgrading from RE Drop brackets). I am in the process of remaking my x-memeber, with new Long arm mounts built in, depending on how they do on a couple of rides, I might make a few for sale, but I doubt it. Ill proprably just send you some detailed drawings. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dishdude Posted December 7, 2005 Author Share Posted December 7, 2005 Allready have dana 44 in the rear. Dana 35 in the front I think. I'm just new in this style of truck. In the day had a very big CJ5 on 35". Easy. This is a whole diffrent ball game. I don't plan on doing very much hard wheeling. For now!!! Just tring to get it going. What is the deal with the crossmember? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 Terra flexes LA kit uses a bracket, and you have to mod your x-memeber, but because of my wheeling style my Xmemeber is hashed, and I want to remake the whole setup. I just want to make it a lil stronger. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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