Comanche County Posted July 8, 2011 Author Posted July 8, 2011 Yep, WJs were 99-04. Its seems most do 99-00', but that's probably because they're more available in the yards. Good Luck!
comanche12 Posted July 9, 2011 Posted July 9, 2011 ok thanks man! :cheers: I'm gonna call near by junkyard to see if they have. i know one little far place has plenty zj and xj tho. found a junkyard same one that i got proportioning valve for good price. 65 dollars for booster, mc and front sway bar
comanche12 Posted July 19, 2011 Posted July 19, 2011 i have a issue with 5/8" drill bit, none of my drills r able to adapt this 5/8" even air power drill at my work won't able adapt it. is there any way to get it fit in adapter?
Comanche County Posted July 19, 2011 Author Posted July 19, 2011 I used a 5/8" bit with a 1/2" base (part that goes in the drill), or you could use a uni-bit as long as it goes up to 5/8".
comanche12 Posted July 20, 2011 Posted July 20, 2011 I used a 5/8" bit with a 1/2" base (part that goes in the drill), or you could use a uni-bit as long as it goes up to 5/8". uni-bit sound alot easier for me. thanks for help! :wrench: i can't find 5/8 " with small base around me. i can try next time if uni-bit fail. Edit: got uni bit and hopefully it's work when I try it tomorrow :wrench:
comanche12 Posted July 30, 2011 Posted July 30, 2011 i just finish installed booster and m/c no problem. but... I have one issue right now... brake switch. the brake light is stay on while plugged connector on the switch. i drilled 5/8 on rod perfect. no end play, seat perfect and tight. is it might be cause from bolt on switch begin too tight? :dunno:
Comanche County Posted July 30, 2011 Author Posted July 30, 2011 The flat spot on the pedal rod needs adjustment then. The measurement is important on this part, I think you need to grind a little more material off.
comanche12 Posted July 30, 2011 Posted July 30, 2011 how thick should i grind? same thick as mj rod? guess i gotta to get it out again. :ack: :ack: brake switch bolt is most bitchin to get on and off.
Comanche County Posted July 30, 2011 Author Posted July 30, 2011 Get a micrometer and do it just like I have pictured. Put the sleeve and grommets back in the MJ rod and measure, then put the sleeve and grommets in the WJ rod, measure, then slowly grind to match.
comanche12 Posted July 30, 2011 Posted July 30, 2011 OH i forget about that part :oops: :dunce: alright thanks man! :wrench:
shawn Posted August 12, 2011 Posted August 12, 2011 excellent write-up.thank you. i just happen to have a 95 parts xj so I'm looking forward to seeing how this works. looks identical to the wj one that was shown. -- so i have the stuff sitting on my workbench, took everything out in one unit all from my 95 parts xj. and what I'm thinkin is, since i don't have the proportioning valve in the back anymore, is that i may as well use the xj distribution block too while I'm there. ive seen the write up on how to re-plumb it and apparently that is the way to go when you've eliminated the proportioning valve. (i was reminded of this yesterday during sudden hard-braking when the rears wanted to lock up before the fronts.)
Comanche County Posted August 12, 2011 Author Posted August 12, 2011 Eagle is the expert on the proportioning valves, maybe he'll chime in. I'm not sure what the difference in f:r ratio is between the XJ and MJ blocks are. But when you say "replumb" do you mean simply replacing the MJ unit with the XJ unit or removing the O ring inside the valve like in the Lunghd article: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... ve_Mod.htm. Because this would actually increase your braking pressure in the rear.
comanche12 Posted August 12, 2011 Posted August 12, 2011 well iiroc- xj is 70/30 split but zj is 60/40 tho. i got xj in mine. maybe your rear locked up because of wrong route brake line from m/c to block? I'm speaking from my experince mistake :oops:
shawn Posted August 12, 2011 Posted August 12, 2011 it's on this page: viewtopic.php?t=4968&highlight=prop+valve
Blue88Comanche Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 I pulled a BB from a newer XJ and don't recall a spacer, was that something attached to the BB or is something i forgot to grab? also my brake petal it about 1 - 2 inches away from the other petals (more towards me), did any one have this problem?
carnuck Posted November 15, 2011 Posted November 15, 2011 Just an FYI, but you can NOT use these compression type fittings on brake lines! They are designed for less than 200 psi and brake systems are over 1,000 psi on mild stops.
Automan2164 Posted November 15, 2011 Posted November 15, 2011 Just an FYI, but you can NOT use these compression type fittings on brake lines!] This is why I hate my work sometimes. My boss and my brilliant coworker installed these on one of our detectives cars. Try as I might, there are somethings that they just don't understand. Just today I had to down a primary squad because I had found the L/F caliper hose twisted because someone rotated the caliper and put it back on while doing a brake job. The tire and rim were rubbing it at full lock. All the outside of the flex line was ground off, and it was down to the frayed inner braids. After describing this to my cohort, I just got a deer in the headlights look, and "Front or rear?" Be news to me that we had rear steer cruisers. Rob :wall:
comanche12 Posted November 18, 2011 Posted November 18, 2011 I admint that I'm using those compression union at work and it work fine for me tho? I Never had problems with it at all? :dunno:
Automan2164 Posted November 18, 2011 Posted November 18, 2011 I admint that I'm using those compression union at work and it work fine for me tho? I Never had problems with it at all? :dunno: It's all good until you really need them one day and that union blows off at the most inopportune time for it to. Rob
comanche12 Posted November 19, 2011 Posted November 19, 2011 Hm alright I'll try to not use it anymore. Important my jeep don't have any of those tho. :thumbsup:
carnuck Posted November 19, 2011 Posted November 19, 2011 Very important in high pressure areas. If you have an accident, your insurance is null and void for using them and ignorance of the law isn't excusable in safety regulations.
87Chief Posted December 8, 2011 Posted December 8, 2011 Just did this.. Only one problem.. I grinded the switch down, and when I installed it the brakes won't come on. If I move it down a little on the knob by the pedal, they will stay on but go off in 5 seconds. I don't know what to do.
comanche12 Posted December 8, 2011 Posted December 8, 2011 Just did this.. Only one problem.. I grinded the switch down, and when I installed it the brakes won't come on. If I move it down a little on the knob by the pedal, they will stay on but go off in 5 seconds. I don't know what to do. did u grinded the rod for the switch not the switch it self?
87Chief Posted December 8, 2011 Posted December 8, 2011 Yeah I grounded the rod and drilled it out 5/8
comanche12 Posted December 8, 2011 Posted December 8, 2011 Yeah I grounded the rod and drilled it out 5/8 alright did u measure its specific same size as your old rod? too much can ruin it or maybe you have to grind more? you only have one shot on it.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now