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Be aware that is a low pinion D44. Gears are no stronger than a high pinion D30. Also 82 through 84 and some 85 had a troublesome vacuum disconnect in the diff.

 

If you want a high pinion 44 you are stuck with an aftermarket axle, or Ford parts.

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remember that J-truck axles are wider than wagoneer axles.... and there is some possibility of it being an 8lug J20 axle instead of a 6 lug J10 axle....

 

Yes, '80 and up are drivers drop. Manual tranny FSJ's never got the vacuum disconnect axle: they reatined lock-outs.

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Gears are no stronger than a high pinion D30.

 

Prove it.

 

I'd disagree with that. I ran a low pinion 44 and was never worried about ring gear strength. I was more concerned with a spinning yoke and front drive-shaft on the rocks. It is weaker, as far as ring-gear strength, but it's not in 30 territory.

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Yep, gonna be a lot wider than your rear axle and a Waggy front d44.

 

If you want a good base d44 to start with and attach the needed brackets, find a late '70s HP44 from a Ford 3.4t truck. Cut the inner C's off and narrow it to Waggy width. Then you get a high pinion, OEM axleshafts, and can run Chevy or Jeep outers for the 6-lug wheels.

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I myself am kind of planning that, but going to try Chevy flat top outers with Ford brakes/rotors for 5 on 5.5 wheels using Waggy inner shafts, don't know about outer shafts yet. Using Ballistic Fab brackets for the suspension.

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As far as gear strength, I run a locked high pinion 30 with 35s on stock shafts with 760 u joints. I'm not worried about gear strength either, as the weak parts are the axle shafts ears and unit bearings. They are the only things I have issues with. But I figured if I swap axles to get rid of the unit bearings I might as well get a high pinion as the cost will be the same to me.

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Using Ballistic Fab brackets for the suspension.

 

I haven't looked at the Ballistic brackets, but have done my research on the TNT stuff. That's what I am using whenever I decide to do another build.

 

D44leafsprungtruss.1.jpg

 

Are you going just brackets, or full-truss with brackets?

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I don't think I'll need a truss with 3" diameter 1/2" wall tubes. My MJ only weighs in at a tad over 3500 pounds. The axle I'm planning to use comes from a 6000 pound truck.

 

Plus, that truss doesn't look too terribly expensive at $170. Until you add the $320 for the brackets I need. That's almost $500, which is the upper limit of what I plan to have invested total in the axle, including purchase price, build, brackets AND install.

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