How do I do a rear end?

[Hick]

The differential in my 91 Dakota is shot. My local shop wants 900 to replace it. I don't have 900. My local jy has a whole rear end for 200. I'm thinking on just doing the whole rear end myself. However, Ive never done rear end work. What tools/parts/time/price am I looking at here? And is there a step by step to do this? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[wallisek]

I've been doing lots of reading and have gathered most of the tools needed to do the job. I have plenty of time and a spare rear end to practice with though. You could very easily spend over $200 just for the tools, rebuild kit, and ring/pinion. If you are comfortable turning wrenches and have patience, you could check out the pirate4x4 article. Lots of pics and very detailed. Otherwise, I'd check with another shop. Granted not all areas are the same, but 900 for just one axle is way to expensive IMHO. I spent 1375 (parts and labor) for front and rear re-gear with full rebuild kits at a local 4wheelparts store. If you have a complete donor axle available, I say go that route. Probably easiest and cheapest option. :thumbsup:

 

http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/ ... Gear_Setup

[Pete M]

car-part.com

 

$200 is a decent price if it's the correct axle. Installing an axle isn't all that hard. :thumbsup:

[MjPioneer]

Like Pete stated if it's the right axle, you could get that in there in a matter of hours with just simple tools.

[Hick]

I know its the same ratio. I need to look at the whole thing though. I know the Dodges came with both 7.25s and 8.25s in that year. If its an 8.25 with 3.55s I'm in business. From what ive gathered, its no more than unbolting the driveshaft, undoing the brake lines, and unbolting it from the leafs, right? Correct me if I'm wrong please.

[CWLONGSHOT]

I know its the same ratio. I need to look at the whole thing though. I know the Dodges came with both 7.25s and 8.25s in that year. If its an 8.25 with 3.55s I'm in business. From what Ive gathered, its no more than unbolting the drive shaft, undoing the brake lines, and unbolting it from the leafs, right? Correct me if I'm wrong please.

 

That's about it for the swap... You should also use new U Bolts. Lastly you will need to do the brakes. Rust and corrosion will ruin the pads, then the related springs to dust and backing plates to paper. Quite possibly the discs/drums themselves could be turned to resurface if thick enough. Its a better bet to swap over your known good parts from the stock axle.

 

Its not a hard job. If you have mechanical abilities basic knowledge of vehicle suspensions, you will get it done in a day or less.

 

CW

[JeepcoMJ]

as far as the brake lines go, if you remove the cross pin from the carrier and pull the shafts out, you can unbolt the brake lines from the axle, and remove the backing plates for the brakes, and never even have to bleed them out. do the same on the new axle, and put your old backing plates on.

[kastein]

As long as it's the same ratio/axle, yeah, just wrench stuff. It's when you have to set up the gears in the diff that it gets dicey.

 

If you can install a lift kit you can install a new rear axle. Like CW said, you should use new U-bolts, you can have them made to your spec at any spring rebuilder shop for 30-60 bucks depending on where you live. Speaking of which, where are you? If you're in mass somewhere, the you-pull-it yards generally charge 100-150 for axles, save yourself some dough and do some sweating to make up for it.

[terrawombat]

The title of this thread made me laugh out loud.

[philbert001]

The title of this thread made me laugh out loud.

So my urge to say, "Lots of lube!", Isn't out of line!

[jpdocdave]

i have experience rebuilding rear ends. any day of the week i'd install a factory set rear axle of the same gearing for 200 bux before overhauling a bad one.

 

there's way way more money in bearings, gears, and tools than 200 to rebuild a bad r&p correctly.

[CWLONGSHOT]

Good point, some of us are referring to this as a easy job are talking about an axle SWAP, NOT a rebuild. A REBUILD is not something for the armature. It takes some specialized tools and expertise. Usually more so than the average shade tree mechanic. (I recommend the complete axle swap)

 

Something else to remember. MOST yards drain the fluids. SO if you go this route, be sure to check this and refill it to the proper levels with hypoid gear oil!!

 

CW

[kastein]

Something else to remember. MOST yards drain the fluids. SO if you go this route, be sure to check this and refill it to the proper levels with hypoid gear oil!!

 

CW

What yards are you going to?!

 

Sam's up in Worcester doesn't. They also don't drain the freon, coolant, oil, brake fluid, PS fluid, or damn near anything except the gas... I discovered the freon one with a sawzall one day by accident.

[Hick]

The title of this thread made me laugh out loud.

 

 

HAHA :yes: But yea, I'm just swapping the whole thing. I had brakes done last year, so theyll be easy and in good shape. I had spring work done as well, so the U bolts arent even a year old, i may reuse them as well. However i misread the signs and indeed bought an 8.25 when i have a 7.25. But I'm going to install the 8.25, as its for more payload and is the 4x4 axle. I just need to put in a different driveshaft because the 8.25 takes a shorter shaft than the 7.25