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comanch12s 87 manche *11/30/11*


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Have you ever done anything like this before? Some of this is kinda sketchy in my opinion.

sorry, what do u means by that as sketchy?

 

Edit: yes, i did most of those stuff before. engine is most of expereince i had been work since 6+ years. expect little experience on transmission and interior.

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Have you ever done anything like this before? Some of this is kinda sketchy in my opinion.

sorry, what do u means by that as sketchy?

 

btw, yes, i did most of those stuff before. engine is most of expereince i had been work since 6+ years. expect little experience on transmission and interior but i did successful and make sure i do right.

i made myself with vow by never use redneck way/ lazy way to repair my vehicles and other person's vehicle(s).

 

 

what he means by sketchy is that the front suspension, axle, and crossmember is a bit redneck...it's obvious that the PO wasn't too skilled.

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what he means by sketchy is that the front suspension, axle, and crossmember is a bit redneck...it's obvious that the PO wasn't too skilled.

 

ah sketchy, yes thats right its been terrible maintained from pre owner. I'm decide to take those system off asap after get new one in proper design.

 

 

Cross member is pretty beefy up and good welds so i will leave it as it be.

 

Those are some good axles. I almost pulled some F150 axles and did the same thing, but I didn't have the money at the time. Check out Pete's pics how he tackled the radius arms and wedges. I was going to use his as a guide. http://www.picturetr...um/view/4940732

 

thanks and yes those axles r good expect front has been water logged. i already fix those issues an while ago.

 

yes, Pete and I already discussed about those radius arms and wedges AND bump stop trick DIY

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Isn't painting the ends of the axles going to make it a wee bit hard for the bearings in the rotors to slide on?

Well actually, the rotor with bearing slide on Knuckle Spindles not axle shaft.

 

Parts are back together expect calipers and pads since need replace the pads and brake lines.

 

oops look what happened to my front cover by left it in bucket of solvent for about three weeks (paint was all stripped and old rtv been soft up)

no choice i gotta use plastic paint spraycan which thats only paint i have right now.

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  • 4 weeks later...

i was thinking about how to make two brackets on my front bumper for my foglights

my foglights

 

so i have a idea! :idea:

i measure and make a teaser with foglight on bumper then mark the location up

teaser

protype steel plate

welded it up and make sure foglights seat balance in the under bar "stinger"

stiffen the plate up to prevent shaken like during drive with rough road

video of compare how its stiffen up :thumbsup:

decided to add one more plate for mroe stiffen and its actually more stiffen up :thumbsup:

 

I'm pretty done for the night. its get late and very cold outside.

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got new calipers for both fornt sides. bleeder screws sucks! :ack:

 

bleed the brake fluid, checked for leaks. slam wheels back on and remove the poor jackstand that hold my front axle up for weeks :shake:

 

jump and fired my mj up, pull it out of garage to stretch mjs legs :banana: and intro my mj to my subaru. my subaru pee her self while mj parking in front of subaru :thumbsup:

 

took mj test drive and it ran great! comanche.gif

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pictures as promise

awesome presents from ups

pretty?

hooked foglights wires up and sucessful

new tierods and pretty beefy up

gotta to replace calipers because of bleed screw won the fight with me :fs1: at least 14.99 each caliper

intro my subaru and jeep eachother :thumbsup:

pretty high enough to run over my subaru :fs2:

thats what my garage"shop" look like whgile i was work on my jeep for 7-9 months

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  • 3 weeks later...

Stripped the cooling system parts out

 

Thermostat housing and guess what? Theres even no thermostat in it . :roll:

now waterpump. antifreeze look good

wirebrushed the surface before put new gasket on it

 

Installed new waterpump and thermostat housing back on...

so far no more leaking

 

now rear brake

got free vise grip that been clamped on my rear hose since i bought my mj.

finally got it remove. Ill clean it up and grease little on part inside the visegrip

this brackets r pretty beefy and fit perfect on my axle but unforuntely its not fit with my s10 caliper

returned and order this one bracket. little thin than last one but its perfect fit to everything

those parts r what I'm gonna use for my rear brake

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now I'm start work on rear axle flange to get cj7 rotor fit on.

before grinding

after grinding for about a hour

now test the cj7 rotor... its finally able fit on! :banana:

now time to measure the bracket up then weld it up.

I'm not good welder-yet so i just weld to hold the bracket up to mock it up. Ill wait for my good friend to come over and weld it for me

and final, mock up picture

 

will do same thing on driver side tomorrow or later

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yesterday, my good friend with 3 years at work with weld experience did 3 layers weld on my rear brake caliper bracket :thumbsup:

today I sprayed the bracket with anti rust spraycan on brackets

 

soon after paints drying up then Ill install my rear brake parts then focus on brake lines :banana:

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paint dried up so time for brake parts install and steel line it up.

 

ingore the red zip ties, they are temporary. Ill try get metal zipties asap

welded the extended hose's bracket and hooked up my custom steel lines.

brake parts are done! but gotta need steel tube to center the rotor up.

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  • 2 weeks later...
the jeep is looking good!!! :bowdown:

 

what are you gonna do with your rear prop valve?

 

thanks :thumbsup: , I'm gonna throw rear prop valve out. Too rust also I have XJ proportioning valve to able do 70/30 split without need rear prop valve.

 

I supposed to get ZJ prop valve to get better split(60/40) but there no junkyard have ZJ near me, They only have WJ which their brake system have ABS module so their prop is little different :roll:

 

At least xj work o.k.

 

edit: also I pulled taillights out and leave them on shelve. I'm gonna check on the taillight wire harness that PO hacked it up, used electric taped wraped splice not heat shrink.... :fs1:

 

Plus I pulled rear brake steel line from front to rear out.

 

I will do more those stuff tomorrow. Its too cold outside(6*F), my thermo gloves arent warm enough to work on other brake steel line in garage.

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30 mins after ripped those old friction tape off and duct tapes... yes duct tapes. there couple some corrsion on wires and some damaged wires too.

Ill replace some wires and fix the splices asap.

 

duct tapes.... :doh:

labeled wires up and taped the damaged wires and corrosion that I spotted.

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  • 1 month later...

Timken tapered bearings for rear axle

mile marker wheel hub lockers for front

front shocks

battery

drain rear axle gear oil then flush the gear oil from it waterlogged(work on it)

drill/tap axle guide tube for breather nipple, now i have breather on rear axle :clapping:

drill/tap on rear axle differential cover for drain plug. so i won't have to remove the third member out to drain the gear oil :nuts: (work on it)

 

presents from UPS!

time to do bearing press machine in my work during lunch break.

did some modifcation on this machine and still won't able to replace my bearings :doh: so i sent it to place that do bearing press.

four hours later(30 mins after done with my work)

my bearings r done and only charged me 90 bucks :roll: at least i get my jeep done faster

 

draining my rear axle gear oil by lift one side up and other side low to let gear oil flow to one side out plus let it clean the metal shave from drill for breather nipple.

 

look how gross gear oil is from waterlogged. remind me of my front axle :no:

 

no pictures of wheel hub lockers installed and shock yet but they installed like charm without any problem.

 

now I'm working on drain plug on differential cover

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