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ba10 to ax15 questions


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my main question is what else will I need aside from what I have in these pics? I need to swap my transfer case because my stock one is popping when in 4x4 (slipping chain I think). here is what I have they came out of the same Cherokee:

 

OK, I'm pretty sure I have to get an external slave because the ba10 is an internal slave, but I have no idea what else I would need. sorry if this is common sense or has been posted a million times but all the threads I have run into are asking specific things about the swap.

 

Thanks for any help,

Jonathan

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going back to get stuff is out of the question, I bought this years ago when the pukegoat was stuck in gear, the mechanic got it out of gear so I put off swapping this one in.

 

OK so far I would need a cross member or to make my own.

 

anything else that is missing off the one in the pics that I would not already have in my truck now?

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I'm doing almost the same swap.

 

'90 AX-15 and '98 NP 242. You can swap your cable speedo gear right into the NP 242.

 

You are going to have to be creative with the T-case linkage. No AX-15 ever came from the factory with an NP 242... Autos only.

 

EDIT: Oops thought that was an NP 242... Nevermind about the t-case linkages.

 

73-75 CJ-5 304 V-8 Pilot Bushing. '96 Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave assembly (one-piece).

 

AX-15 Crossmember (Maybe if you have clearance issues) and trans mount.

 

I am interested to see how your driveshaft works with the new style T-case Yoke. Please keep us updated.

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The shifter might come in handy.

 

 

There's a huge difference between the TJ/YJ shifter and the XJ/MJ shifter. You'll want the MJ/XJ variety. :thumbsup:

 

I've been told that the lower shifter part (the piece inside the shifter hole, that the nylon piece sits in, with the arm going to the shift rails) is also different, so you'll need to swap that to an XJ/MJ one too. I haven't personally verified that, but I trust the source.

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If your current clutch master is in good shape, you can adapt the clutch line to the new slave's clutch line. I've done it twice now. And on my 90 I had about that much slave line left as I see in your photo. I just cut it so it was straight and finagled the old line to match up, then used a 1/4" to 5/16" compression fitting I got from the hardware store.

 

This photo is of my 88 (which had lots more of the plastic line left)

 

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the rear driveshaft will work in that style yoke (just put my ax15/sealed yoke case in today) but the output on that t-case is going to measure an inch longer than the older style. so you may need a shorter driveshaft or lift at the same time. i haven't let mine off the lift so i don't know if it will bottom the shaft out yet or not, might know tomorrow.

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the rear driveshaft will work in that style yoke (just put my ax15/sealed yoke case in today) but the output on that t-case is going to measure an inch longer than the older style. so you may need a shorter driveshaft or lift at the same time. i haven't let mine off the lift so i don't know if it will bottom the shaft out yet or not, might know tomorrow.

 

I have 6.5 lift up front and SOA in the rear so it should be ok

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FWIW i would also obtain the 4wd shift lever attachment. I have found that this little detail over looked makes one a bit :headpop: you could be lucky and find one in the JY around the same as the tranny you have now and just make it a plug and play :brows: i found out after the install that the original didn’t match up :wall: and figured that hey they are the same :doh: had it disassemble and figured didnt need it :fs1: should have taken that too. good luck :cheers:

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  • 2 months later...
If your current clutch master is in good shape, you can adapt the clutch line to the new slave's clutch line. I've done it twice now. And on my 90 I had about that much slave line left as I see in your photo. I just cut it so it was straight and finagled the old line to match up, then used a 1/4" to 5/16" compression fitting I got from the hardware store.

 

This photo is of my 88 (which had lots more of the plastic line left)

 

 

I'm still working on my swap and I've run into a bit of a problem. My plastic line on the external slave was cut short and the existing line isn't long enough to meet to use the compression fitting you mentioned. Any idea for spanning the gap?

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