Stuck, and no start

[MJ is dead]

Before anyone jumps me on searching, please be aware I'm posting this from my blackberry. And CC is a little hard to navigate.

 

On my way to work this afternoon, I slid into the ditch and got stuck. No biggy, I threw it into 4L and started to back out. Then my engine died. The oil light came on and it refused to start (yes it has oil, don't ask)

 

Got pulled out, but it still refuses to start. Keep in mind that the only thing that really saw any snow at all was the front drivers tire. The starter will crank all it wants, but no go.

 

Please any help you can give me would be great. I don't get off till 3am and I really don't want to hike the mile from work to my truck then another 5 home in subzero south dakota temps.

 

:mad:

[JeepcoMJ]

check the fuel pump connector (under on driver's side towards the front of the tank).

 

also check the CPS connector (rear of intake manifold, 3 pin flat connector).

 

then check the ballast resistor (white ceramic piece on driver's side of engine bay, 2 wires connected) and jumper it to see if it's not working.

[Oizarod115]

if the connectors arent the problem (they probly are) then turn the key to off, then back to run and listen out the door for the fuel pump to buzz. should run for about 2 seconds to prime it.

 

sucks man. :ack:

 

only question is WHY CAN'T YOU SEARCH BETTER JEEE WIIZZ MAN. SHEESH. ;) :cheers:

[Geonovast]

Does it crank, or will it not even turn over?

[Oizarod115]

The starter will crank all it wants, but no go.

:

sounds like the motor will turn over just not light off.

[Geonovast]

The starter will crank all it wants, but no go.

:

sounds like the motor will turn over just not light off.

 

Guess I'm more tired than I thought.. :oops:

[comanchekidwa]

Try unplugging and plugging the Crank Position sensor plug a couple times. Mine does this ever 6 months or so I really need to replace it...

[MJ is dead]

Ok update time.

 

I got towed home last night, and checked the fuel pump connection right away. Its fine. The fuel pump is running, I can hear it prime right after turning the key.

 

I have no idea where the fuel pump ballast relay is, nor do I know how to jump it. But if my fuel pump is running, that probably isn't it right?

 

I checked the cps connection. All is well. I haven't actually pulled the cps out and put it back in like suggested.

 

I have noticed the back of the engine is one oily SOB, hoping its just the valve cover gasket, but its probably the RMS. I wonder if some oil didn't get onto the flywheel when I put her in the ditch?

 

I don't have a single penny to my name for parts, so I'm hoping I'm just an R-tard and missed something. It ran fine all day before I went into the snow :dunno:

[maddzz1]

If your MJ is an 87 then you don't have a ballist resistor.

[Geonovast]

The ballast resistor was added during 87. My family's first Jeep was an 87 XJ, and it had one.

 

But that's beside the point. The resistor is bypassed during startup. If the resistor was bad, it would start, run for a second, then die. My first personal XJ did that when the resistor went out.

 

If you have one, it will be located on your driver's side inner fender. To jump it, simply pop both wires off and connect them directly.

 

[64 Cheyenne]

Do you know how to check for spark at the distributor?

Did you check for fuel at the fuel rail?

[MJ is dead]

Quite certain mine has the resistor, based on the pics you put up. It may be an 87, but the motor has been replaced, from what the PO told me, out of a 90 or 92. Can't remember.

 

Gonna check the distributor cap, spark and fuel system schrader valve tomorrow. If none of those give me even a slight clue, I'm just gonna push the dang thing into a busy street

[64 Cheyenne]

Tell me the street you'll be pushing it into, I'll be right there to pick it up. LOL

Naw, Just kidding, don't give up! Your in the right place, were here to help you out, get your truck back up and running again.

If your engine was swapped, the latest it could be would be is a 90, unless they swapped in a HO motor. This probably isn't very likely, but not entirely impossible.

If you have fuel at the rail, and spark, I'd hold the pedal to the floor, try to start it.

Keep us posted. :cheers:

[Wildman]

I have noticed the back of the engine is one oily SOB, hoping its just the valve cover gasket, but its probably the RMS. I wonder if some oil didn't get onto the flywheel when I put her in the ditch?

 

I think you found the problem right there :yes:

 

I was thinking that last night, and wondering how much of an angle the the truck was in the ditch :hmm:

 

If your bell housing has alot of oil in it from the RMS or valve cover leaking, and you get oil coated on the flywheel/flex plate (don't know if you have an auto or manual) the oil can "coat" the pickup on the CPS......and bingo, no spark :eek:

 

The only way to check it is to see if you have any spark. then it the fun filled job of pulling the CPS and either cleaning it, or (what I would do) Replace it with a new one from the Dealer (that's one part that is a sure thing from the dealer)

 

Every one is correct that the Ballast resistor was not installed in the '87 model, But, there was a Service Bulletin that was an after thought, and some '87 did have the resistor installed in them on the SB at the dealer. Same as the CPS patch (Ive only seen one of them so far)

[Lenard]

Every one is correct that the Ballast resistor was not installed in the '87 model, But, there was a Service Bulletin that was an after thought, and some '87 did have the resistor installed in them on the SB at the dealer. Same as the CPS patch (Ive only seen one of them so far)

:hijack: The sticker on my door says (i don't remember what month) "late in the year" 87 but sold as a 88. it has a Ballast Resistor.

[MJ is dead]

Yeah, the cps was gonna be next on the list. I'm assuming its the little plug that sticks out of the block, drivers side, right above the oil pan and a few inches from the bell housing?

 

Flexplate....fly wheel, same thing lol. I've always gotten corrected on that one. Its an auto, so flexplate... :yes:

[Geonovast]

CPS is actually attached to the bellhousing. It's held in by two 11mm bolts.

 

The sensor you're thinking about is the Coolant temp sensor. If you pull that out, you're going to get a green shower.

 

You can see the CPS on the top driver's side of the bellhousing in this pic:

[Wildman]

 

The CPS is on the bell housing :yes:

 

If it not the coolant temp sensor, the other one is the knock sensor........Don't mess with either of them :eek:

 

 

:hijack: The sticker on my door says (i don't remember what month) "late in the year" 87 but sold as a 88. it has a Ballast Resistor.

 

OK.........When will some people realize that All American car manufacturers Begin production in July/August of the year to "produce" that year model :dunno:

 

Plant change over begins around May. On the news yesterday, the Tonawanda engine plant just got the new Ecotec engine, and are tooling up now for production to roll out by June, for the 2011 models. http://www.buffalonews.com/home/story/960767.html

 

Ever hear of the new models being in the show room on September 1st??? So, if you want to buy a brand new Commander, with the Model year 2011, you can order one now, and pick it up on September 1st :D

 

Oh, it's still 2010........but it will be a 2011 model :eek:

 

Yes, the some '87's had the ballast resistor installed OEM, but the earlier models did not, and the Service bulletin updated them, if the dealer did do the work.

 

Same for the '89 model year, after November production, all MJ's received the AX15, because AMC finally ran out of the BA10 :clapping:

 

Sorry for the :rant:

[MJ is dead]

Ok, d-cap was clean, have fuel pressure (checked the redneck way of course)

 

So it must be the cps. Any tricky ways to get the dang thing off besides a swivel and a crapload of extensions? I fought with it for a bit and came back in cuz my hands were frozen.

[64 Cheyenne]

Ok, d-cap was clean, have fuel pressure (checked the redneck way of course)

 

So it must be the cps. Any tricky ways to get the dang thing off besides a swivel and a crapload of extensions? I fought with it for a bit and came back in cuz my hands were frozen.

 

 

But did you check for sure that you have spark out of the coil ?

And nope, long socket extensions do the job. I found if i put a couple wraps of black take around my socket U-joint helps keep the socket from floppin over.

[MJ is dead]

Got the cps out, cleaned it up but I don't think it will do. The sensor itself looks like something hit it or ground it down. And the plastic housing is cracked in a few places.

 

No, I haven't checked for spark. Stupid, I know, but I don't have anyone to help, so its kinda hard to see if I have spark by myself.

 

I'm in the process of putting the old cps back in, mostly cuz I don't have 75 bucks to give the stealership. And I need to get to work on monday. All I can do now is warm up a little, cross my fingers, and put the last cps bolt back in

[Wildman]

You could always take the front drive shaft off the TC and just reach up there :roll:

 

If the housing is cracked :eek: Sorry to say, but it might be shot :(

 

I know......it's cold.......but, check the bolts on the bell housing / engine, something shifted and I bet the flex plate hit the CPS when you went 'off roading'

 

This is showing a good *new* CPS on the right, and a Flex plate hit the CPS because only one bolt was installed......On the left.

 

[MJ is dead]

Yeah.... I noticed a bolt was missing from the bell housing, just below the cps.

[Wildman]

ouch :eek:

 

That don't sound good :shake:

 

Good chance the tranny shifted and took a clip at the CPS.

 

I know, your sitting tight, but unless your old CPS looks like the new one I pictured, it's shot.

 

If you can, try an Ohms test on the connector, ports A & B, you should read between 125-275 Ohms for a good sensor. any thing short of 125, and it's parts buying time.

[MJ is dead]

Yeah...I think its shot too. Put it back in and still a no go.

 

Finally. Checked the spark (by myself, set it on the valve cover and waited till dark haha) no spark to be had

 

I'm assuming the cps being shot would cause a no spark as well?

 

Also, no multimeter, so I can't check the resistance. :(