dasbrick Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 I picked up this bugger of an 87 4.0 BA10... I already have parts lying around for spring to do a exhaust to tip replacement (painted, sealed, wrapped...) and a couple other pet projects, but are there any other 'must have' mods to do to an MJ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_wizard_of_fire Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 at least a minor lift, minimum 30 inch tires, custom bumpers.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbrick Posted January 27, 2010 Author Share Posted January 27, 2010 metric ton pkg... 30x9.5s BFG AT KOs are already on it... custom bumper... on the block for a trade with my roof rack... :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 checked the floors yet? any leaks from the clutch master cylinder? how old are the battery cables? checked and cleaned all the grounds yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socal1200r Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 checked the floors yet? any leaks from the clutch master cylinder? how old are the battery cables? checked and cleaned all the grounds yet? Yup, I'd definitely make sure the basic package is sound, before doing any "optional" things like a lift kit, bumpers, etc. Rust is a BIG issue, rotten floor pans, leaking clutch master cylinder, leaky valve cover/blowby into the airbox, etc. I'd also recommend disabling the vacuum operated 4wd gizmo on the front axle, and locking the CAD. That way, the lever in the cab will work more effectively in getting it into and out of 4wd. It's fairly easy to do, don't need any parts, and if I could do it in less than 30 minutes, just about anyone should be able to do it, lol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbrick Posted January 27, 2010 Author Share Posted January 27, 2010 checked the floors yet? any leaks from the clutch master cylinder? how old are the battery cables? checked and cleaned all the grounds yet? Yup, I'd definitely make sure the basic package is sound, before doing any "optional" things like a lift kit, bumpers, etc. Rust is a BIG issue, rotten floor pans, leaking clutch master cylinder, leaky valve cover/blowby into the airbox, etc. I'd also recommend disabling the vacuum operated 4wd gizmo on the front axle, and locking the CAD. That way, the lever in the cab will work more effectively in getting it into and out of 4wd. It's fairly easy to do, don't need any parts, and if I could do it in less than 30 minutes, just about anyone should be able to do it, lol! Yep, caught the blowby and workin on fixing it... Planning to pull the carpet (caught that.. lol) anyway and sheet metal, i had an old wrangler that was a flintstone car. Whats the 4wd vacuum thing and where is the leaking clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeegy410 Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 the leaking master cylinder would be right above your fuse box. you would notice it leaking on your carpet on the inside and all over your shoes if you take your foot off the clutch and set it the the side (messed up a pair of my nikes :fs1: ). It's something that really needs checking because the brake fluid will literally melt your fuses and make nothing on your truck work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbrick Posted January 27, 2010 Author Share Posted January 27, 2010 i think I might wait to pull the carpet right now, since I think thats whats hanging underneath by the frame... lol.... i'll wait until I have some sheet metal for the repair. Any suggestions on what kind and size to get for a repair of the floor pan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 AX-15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socal1200r Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 Whats the 4wd vacuum thing and where is the leaking clutch? Check out this thread on locking the CAD: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415 It's what I followed when I did mine, great writeup, easy to follow, no parts needed (except top off the front diff and plugs for the CAD cover)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbrick Posted January 27, 2010 Author Share Posted January 27, 2010 Other then getting off the lame concept of vacuums, whats the advantage of the CAD fix? and doesnt this lock it in Fulltime 4wd? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socal1200r Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 Other then getting off the lame concept of vacuums, whats the advantage of the CAD fix? and doesnt this lock it in Fulltime 4wd? The way I understand it, instead of relying on the cab lever AND this vacuum-assist gizmo to operate the 4wd system, by locking the CAD, the cab lever does all the work now. I tested the system after I did this mod, and it's not locked in full-time 4wd. Using the cab lever to put it into 4H, 4L, and back into 2H, it operated like it should. Apparently, Jeep did away with this vacuum-assist thing in the early 90's, so by locking the CAD and using only the cab lever to engage the 4wd system, it'll operate like a newer Jeep's system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 and doesnt this lock it in Fulltime 4wd? Absolutely not. The CAD simply disconnects the two halves of the passenger side axle shaft. All this is for is to make it so the front driveshaft does not turn while in 2wd. The handle for the transfercase is what determines if it's in 2wd or 4wd. The purpose of the CAD was to marginally improve fuel mileage. Personally, I'll take the unnoticeable change in MPGs to be sure the darn thing goes into 4wd when I want it to. And just for clarification.. Part Time 4wd (NP231 or NP207 in 84-86) locks the front and rear driveshafts together... making it so there can't be any difference in rotational speeds between the front and rear axles. This can only be used on road conditions that allow the tires to slip. Using it on dry pavement will result in something breaking. Full Time 4wd (NP242 or NP228/229 in 84-86) Allows for 4wd use on any road surface. The transfercase has internal mechanisms that allow small amounts of different rotational speeds while still powering both axles. No factory full time Jeep will even have a CAD, it will have the non-CAD D30 with a one piece passenger shaft. Failure of the CAD will result in the transfercase self-destructing. The non-CAD D30s became standard for XJ/MJs in 91, although you can still find them upwards of 93 (factory must've been using up parts) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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