Jump to content

'89 MJ driveline slippage


Recommended Posts

Yesterday, my '89 Comanche developed what I'll call a slight hiccup in the driveline. Occasionally, I can feel something slip slightly while cruising down the snow and ice covered road in 4-HI. I can think of two possible causes.

 

The first is a stretched chain starting to slip in the NP231. I'd bet on this one because the truck has about 155K and I just had to rebuild our XJ NP231 at 165K.

 

The second thing I'm wondering about is whether or not the front axle disconnect isn't engaging securely because of a broken shift fork. Would the '89 MJ have a steel or die-cast aluminum shift fork in the disconnect? We had a '92 YJ that used an aluminum shift fork. The fork broke in half and left us in 10" of snow with no power to the front wheels.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks,

Jerry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the same problem. CAD not working. Didn't want to crawl underneath and get all dirty so I did it the easy way. Got two bicyle sprockets, mounted one on the front wheel and one on the back, both on drivers side of vehicle. Then I spliced a couple bicycle chains together and mounted it over the sprockets. Works great as long as I go in a straight line but whenever I go around a corner I gotta get out and put the chain back on. Thinking about replacing a couple of the chain links with rubber ones. Maybe get enough stretch there to keep it on. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the same problem. CAD not working. Didn't want to crawl underneath and get all dirty so I did it the easy way. Got two bicyle sprockets, mounted one on the front wheel and one on the back, both on drivers side of vehicle. Then I spliced a couple bicycle chains together and mounted it over the sprockets. Works great as long as I go in a straight line but whenever I go around a corner I gotta get out and put the chain back on. Thinking about replacing a couple of the chain links with rubber ones. Maybe get enough stretch there to keep it on. :cheers:

 

... That's easier than taking 5 minutes to lock the CAD over?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hadn't gotten back to check the replies. Wow, this thread deteriorated in a hurry. :eek:

 

Still looking for an answer on steel vs. aluminum shift fork. If it's aluminum, I'd suspect in over the vacuum actuator. We had one of the aluminum shift forks fail on a '92 YJ. It left us in 14" of snow in 2wd. I just didn't know if the MJs used the aluminum version or the stronger steel unit. I guess I'll start pulling it apart.

 

Thanks,

Jerry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the same problem. CAD not working. Didn't want to crawl underneath and get all dirty so I did it the easy way. Got two bicyle sprockets, mounted one on the front wheel and one on the back, both on drivers side of vehicle. Then I spliced a couple bicycle chains together and mounted it over the sprockets. Works great as long as I go in a straight line but whenever I go around a corner I gotta get out and put the chain back on. Thinking about replacing a couple of the chain links with rubber ones. Maybe get enough stretch there to keep it on. :cheers:

 

 

 

Now......if you been watching Red Green, he would have used Duct tape to hold the chain in place, and solve the problem with it popping off on turns :D

 

OH, and on topic.......the CAD shift fork is cast aluminum :yes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now......if you been watching Red Green, he would have used Duct tape to hold the chain in place, and solve the problem with it popping off on turns :D

 

Are you kidding? The chain would have been made out of duct tape.

 

 

No......he would have used bungy cords to connect the two lawnmower pulleys, bolted to the hub caps, and used the duct tape to hold the hub caps on the wheels :D

 

So......which show did he take the tire off the valiant, and wrapped something around the wheel, and started up the car........... :hmm: ........forgot what he was trying to do :doh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've seen both methods used on some machinery, Seems like primarily saws and grist mills. However any thing that needs power can do it. Generally they leave the tire on the vehicle and position it so one of the rear tires is on a belt, like a treadmill, or set of rollers. Normally use a chain or some sort of restraint so the car doesn't move. Grandpa had a sawmill he powered this way. Instead of removing the tire he would remove the whole wheel assy and bolt on a tireless wheel.Then the belt over the rim.There was a jack under the axle keeping it off the ground. With the rollor method their wasn't any problem with fenders. With the belt going over the rim it had to be a flat bed truck or fenderless car or truck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tru dat. The backup plan would be a hose clamp on the axleshaft holding the collar over. :D

 

Can't get much more jury-rigged than that.

Sure you can. We recently bought an XJ that the previous owner informed us the CAD had been "dealt with". So after addressing a few other issues it had we headed home from the shop in it at the height of one of the worst snowstorms we've had around here in quite awhile. Shortly into the trip it became obvious that there was a problem as with the occasional pop from the front end. We live on a dead end, dirt road that goes uphill at 15-20 degrees from the time you leave the pavement till you get to our house (about 1/2KM). Snow was about a foot deep in the road by this point and we lost front drive twice and had to back up and try again. Now the snow was thick and heavy and the Jeep has 4 brand new studded winter tires on it. So (aside from the disconnect) the problem wasn't traction but wheel-hop. As we finally did make it to the driveway I was in 4-low, first gear crawling along at a very fine line between stalling the engine and breaking into a massive shuddering hop. I would think this would be putting quite a strain on the disconnect. Got the Jeep in the garage here at the house and pulled the CAD to find: No fork at all, and a plastic cable tie around the axle shaft :nuts:

Had things not already deteriorated to the point they have I'd apologize for hi-jacking, but what's the point really now?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...