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Stroker Project 1989


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I dream to update my 1989 4.0l, experiencing oil in the water.

 

I am not a mechanic, but I dig my way around.

 

I am thinking to do " A poor Man Stroker 4.5l.

 

Need advise from the wises. :bowdown:

 

Anybody have an experience or suggestion ?

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The siren song on the mythical "budget stroker" is OOOOOHHHH so tempting. I followed the maiden for several years, doing research, doing more research, talking to people who had built strokers, talking to people who had BOUGHT strokers, and then doing more research, then crunching the numbers ...

 

The "budget stroker" is a myth. IMHO it involves too many compromises to be a cost-effective substitute for a good rebuild. You either have too much compression, or you don't have enough. One of the solutions for the compression issue is to buy a non-stock cam with a lot of overlap, to bleed off excess compression pressure. I finally saw the light -- unless you're prepared to buy special, custom pistons to get the compression ratio correct, I think you're better off to build the engine stock, with a .030 overbore and new pistons, and then put a mild RV cam in it for more torque.

 

Or buy a 4.2L engine, rebuild that, and throw the 4.0L head and injection on it.

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I think you're better off to build the engine stock, with a .030 overbore and new pistons, and then put a mild RV cam in it for more torque.

 

I've been thinking more along these lines. Oh sure, someday a 5.0L stroker would be nice with mabye a turbo or supercharger 8) . But I would like to see what could be done with a little more stock platform first. Some head work and bolt on's to get more air/fuel flowing through the pump.Just between cam, rockers , and valves there's alot that could be done.

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IMO going to 5.0 is not a good idea. Some blocks may not even be able to do it, as with that much boring you have to have the block checked to make sure you have enough wall thickness between the cylinders.

 

4.7 is as big as I would go.

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5.0 liters is virtually guaranteed to break through the cylinder walls. Even if it doesn't, there won't be enough metal left to dissipate heat. The only way to do a 5.0 liter stroker is to completely hog it out and then sleeve it.

 

For all practical purposes, .060 over is the limit. Once you hit .090 over you start to worry about core shift and thin walls/heat transfer.

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Didn't a recent JP or 4WD and off road rag have a build up on a 5.0 jeep (4.0) stroker??CW

 

Hey CW, I think the article you're referring to is HERE.

 

Agree w. the warnings on a 5.0L stroker; .060 is as far as I'd go. I'm at .030 so can have it bored one more time if necessary. No one can recommend yea or nay on a stroker unless they have one (that runs right of course). It doesn't even sound like a non-aspirated engine; when it idles you freekin' know it's a stroker. And the bolt-on intake/exhaust mods (99+ intake, headers, bored throttle body, dual exhaust, etc.) and performance chips have a lot more positive performance effect on a stroker than a stock engine. So my advice is don't waste money on bolt-ons for a stocker; stroke it first, get the A/F mixture right, then do your performance mods. Everything I've done I always have it dyno checked after (for $75 it's worth it) and it's always been positive gains. To the OP, if you want good, knowledgable, proven info on stroker engines, go to the Strokers forum http://www.jeepstrokers.com/.

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Didn't a recent JP or 4WD and off road rag have a build up on a 5.0 jeep (4.0) stroker??

 

CW

You are correct sir. JP Magazine just did a writeup, there is some amount of controversy stirring about some of the information in that issue.

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This engine claims 265 hp and 290 lb.-ft of torque (peak readings - it doesn't specify RPMs).

 

My latest readings on the Hesco dyno were 219.5 HP @ 3916 RPM, torque at 294.9 w. peak torque 280 @ 3600 RPM (1999 intake manifold only). W. the Unichip and manifold the readings were 261.1 HP @ 4400 RPM, w. peak torque 345 @ 3500 RPM. So it compares favorably. :D

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Is it possible to get numbers like that running the stock renix computer? I would jump on a stroker build/HO head swap any day, engine work is just plain fun! but the thought of swapping out all the wiring and electronics again... :ack:

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Is it possible to get numbers like that running the stock renix computer? I would jump on a stroker build/HO head swap any day, engine work is just plain fun! but the thought of swapping out all the wiring and electronics again... :ack:

Probably. Ask Bob Salemi, the guy who owns that record-setting MJ drag truck. He has a stroker in his daily driver MJ. I think he had it dynoed to get the correct injector size. His is an 89 IIRC. I'm pretty certain it's a Renix.

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Is it possible to get numbers like that running the stock renix computer? I would jump on a stroker build/HO head swap any day, engine work is just plain fun! but the thought of swapping out all the wiring and electronics again... :ack:

 

The Renix is not a problem, just need to upsize the injectors and put HO intake on it. ATK will be duilding the engine for Mopar, yo may be able to get it directly from them cheaper. I think they want about $2,750.00 for it.

 

If you go to http://www.jeepstrokers.com and do a little reading, yo will see than you can generally build a stroker for about $2K . Hell , the sell tham on Ebay for less than $2K!

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The Renix is not a problem, just need to upsize the injectors and put HO intake on it. ATK will be duilding the engine for Mopar, you may be able to get it directly from them cheaper. I think they want about $2,750.00 for it.

 

If you go to http://www.jeepstrokers.com and do a little reading, yo will see than you can generally build a stroker for about $2K . Hell , the sell tham on Ebay for less than $2K!

 

i was one of the few last to get an 4.6l AP kit when they where still doing strokers :dunno: what had happen to AP or what cause them to stop selling them. you can see bunches of stories from the build on a low budget to the 4.9l high dollar build just what is in your budget i still think that the stroker is the way to go here and now mopar will be selling them :thumbsup: its about time. now with the right gearing you would have a nice machine.

:cheers: as for the price some will pay for it just for the fact that it will be a plug and play :brows:

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as for the price some will pay for it just for the fact that it will be a plug and play

I would. Otherwise there are too many variables, and trying to do it on your own could EASILY run upwards of $2,500 by the time you get done. $2,750 isn't that far off the price of a Jasper rebuild, for heaven's sake.

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The Renix is not a problem, just need to upsize the injectors and put HO intake on it. ATK will be duilding the engine for Mopar, yo may be able to get it directly from them cheaper. I think they want about $2,750.00 for it.

 

No, the Renix is no problem with the intake, the Renix problem is the exhaust. The stroker needs both suck and blow to perform and w/o blow it won't put out decent numbers. So it's either an HO head install on the Renix w. the throttle body problem if you want to retain the Renix sensors (WHY??) or extensive porting requirements on the Renix head. Kind of like polishing a turd. :eek:

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