Fixed timing! It starts and drives! Still leaks oil.

[500 MJ]

I'm leaving tomorrow to head back to Michigan this weekend, I am going over there to surprise the G/F...

 

I'll be leaving right from a meeting down in Monroe dealing with a potential new rail customer tomorrow around noon... Driving the White MJ, Blue one staying here. Planning on coming back on Sunday.

 

I'd be happy to drive out your way sometime next week and we could look things over. Monday I am scheduled to be going up to Horicon for the day (oil change on the Company Car), could swing by on the way home and spend some time helping to trouble shoot it if you haven't found the problem...? Call me and we can figure something out.

 

Sorry I can't help this weekend. :(

[Geonovast]

I'm at a loss with the timing. I put the mark at 0, and the rotor was pointing just past the post for one. Figuring that was the problem as I've been told it's supposed to be point directly at it, I checked the motor that came out of the truck. With the mark at 0, the rotor was pointing right about at the post for 4.

 

:hmm:

 

So I checked the two HO 4.0's I've got sitting around. With the marks at 0, the rotor was pointing to the exact same place as the motor that's in the truck, just past the post for 1.

 

Neither of the HO's or the motor that came out of the truck have had the distributors, or timing covers removed since they last ran.

 

So, being perplexed about the old motor, I though maybe, just maybe, somehow they got the dist in one cylinder off(dunno how many teeth are on the dist gear, so I didn't know if that was possible), and they moved the injector wires around to make it run. Far fetched, I know, and I don't see how it could work, but it was what popped in my head. Checked the injector plugs, they're in the right places.

 

So I pulled the head back off the old motor, and 3 & 4 were at TDC. So, somehow, the timing mark on the balancer on the old motor is in the wrong place.

 

I will take pics of all 4 motors tomorrow when it gets light out tomorrow.

Try checking the wires in the harness that comes out around the middle of the firewall. I just got mine running after many many hours (you have read the post) its was where several grounds come together in that harness near the rear of the engine. This must have happened when I pulled the harness up out of the way I stuffed it under the wiper to hold it up. Good luck hope yours is up and running soon also.

 

I'll check that, got out there late(was sick this morning) and really didn't have any light, and if any of you have the factory pull-out hood light, you know they like to cut out and really aren't very bright.

[aemsee]

Having the center of the rotor terminal just past one is correct. What should line up is the trailing edge of the tail of the rotor. The outer part of the balancer on the original motor has most likely spun on the inner part. Not at all uncommon. That is why it is very important to verify TDC through the spark plug hole when setting up the dist. But since you didn't pull the original dist, (in the new motor), and are sure the crank or cam didn't turn when the chain was off, ign timing shouldn't be the issue. If it ran before the chain, it should run now.

 

You say that there is fuel and spark. The only other thing is air, and it all needs to be getting these at the right times.

 

The fuel we know isn't old. Are the plugs getting gas fouled? This could be caused by too much fuel, fuel getting sprayed at the wrong time, not enough air or too weak of a spark. You can pick up a spark tester from any parts store for just a few bucks. It plugs into a plug wire and makes the spark jump a measured gap to check strength.

Not enough air? Back to my previous post about bled down lifters. I know you pooh poohed this, but I still recommend pulling all the plugs, probably changing the now gas filled oil in the crank case, disable the fuel pump and spinning the motor over using a jump box at least until the OP on the guage shows good pressure. Ideally you should pull the VC to verify oil coming up the push rods.

 

To check the injectors you should use a NOID light to check to see if it is blinking. If it stays on all the time, your injectors are just staying open all the time. But you would have a ton of fuel in the crank case if this was the case. Another way to check for injector issues is to disable the fuel pump, make sure the plugs are not fouled, and spray some carb cleaner (O2 safe of course) in the TB and crank it over to see if it runs or at least sparks off.

 

One last thought. Make sure the IAC isn't stuck in wide open mode. This would be like not having a choke on a carbed vehicle. Try throwing another TB on there if you have one.

 

Good Luck. We are all pulling for ya!

[Geonovast]

Compression Test:

1- 40

2- Couldn't get the thing to thread in for some reason, even though the plug goes right in

3- 85

4- 100

5- 70

6- 65

 

Working on ripping the front half of the motor apart, but decided to come in and put this up cause my balance pulled doesn't seem to have enough room to get in there.

[Automan2164]

Compression Test:

1- 40

2- Couldn't get the thing to thread in for some reason, even though the plug goes right in

3- 85

4- 100

5- 70

6- 65

 

Working on ripping the front half of the motor apart, but decided to come in and put this up cause my balance pulled doesn't seem to have enough room to get in there.

 

Thats no bueno. Those numbers seem a little on the low side...

 

Rob L.

[Geonovast]

Compression Test:

1- 40

2- Couldn't get the thing to thread in for some reason, even though the plug goes right in

3- 85

4- 100

5- 70

6- 65

 

Working on ripping the front half of the motor apart, but decided to come in and put this up cause my balance pulled doesn't seem to have enough room to get in there.

 

Thats no bueno. Those numbers seem a little on the low side...

 

Rob L.

 

Yup, which would happen if the timing was off.

[Automan2164]

Compression Test:

1- 40

2- Couldn't get the thing to thread in for some reason, even though the plug goes right in

3- 85

4- 100

5- 70

6- 65

 

Working on ripping the front half of the motor apart, but decided to come in and put this up cause my balance pulled doesn't seem to have enough room to get in there.

 

Thats no bueno. Those numbers seem a little on the low side...

 

Rob L.

 

Yup, which would happen if the timing was off.

 

Agreed.

 

Rob L. :D

[aemsee]

Which might also happen if the cyl walls are extremely gas washed. Put some oil in the cyls and try again, see if the numbers go up.

[Automan2164]

Little something to cheer you up Correy:

 

 

Rob L.

[Geonovast]

Got the timing cover off, and was greeted with this:

 

Looks perfect, doesn't it? Just want some verification from you guys before I put it all together and start freaking out at this thing.

[aemsee]

Where is your rotor pointing when those marks are aligned?

[Geonovast]

Where is your rotor pointing when those marks are aligned?

 

I'll grab a pic of that tomorrow.

[Jakeman17]

I have an 88 4.0L i could drive up by u if needed

[Geonovast]

Well, I'm apparently not the brightest.

 

Timing was off, cam was advanced a tooth. I was looking at the wrong marks.

 

Fixed the timing, and got it to start after pulling the plugs and letting all that gas vent out of the motor. Ran it for a few seconds, shut it off, and put all the stuff back on the front of the motor.

 

Went to start it... didn't go. Pulled plugs, let it air out again, and then it started. Let it run for a good 2 minutes, then shut it off so I could tighten the water pump and clutch fan bolts.

 

Went to start it... didn't go. Let it sit overnight with the plugs in, and it fired up. Took it for a drive for a few minutes, then came back. Leaked a little coolant, found a bad hose clamp, replaced and now that's fine. It(of course) leaks a bit of oil from the back of the motor, either oil pan or RMS, dunno which, but it's a very small amount.

 

Took it for a longer drive around/through Madison, and it's acting really well. So we'll see how she does tomorrow.

[Automan2164]

:cheers: :brows: :D :bowdown: 8) :USAflag: :chillin: :popcorn: :yes: :waving: :clapping:

 

Sweet Correy! Glad you are back on the road again!

 

Rob L.

[500 MJ]

Did it drive any better on the way home since you can now see out the back glass again?

[mythreesons]

Well, I'm apparently not the brightest.

 

 

Signature Line For Sale!!!!! :rotf:

 

How many times have we all said this about ourselves. I'll bid one pkg of double-stuff oreo's payable when Correy's kid is big enough to enjoy them. Who's next?

 

Correy, good for you. Now go have some fun, you deserve a break.

 

Scott

[Geonovast]

Yeah... still leaking oil, pretty good too, but nothing like the old one did.

 

GF keeps telling me that at least it's better... not the point. It was resealed, on a stand, it shouldn't be leaking at all.

 

I was gonna take my mom's car down again, but GF wants to take the XJ. So... wish me luck...

[Geonovast]

Made it to MO just fine, but had to dump oil into it on the way. Luckily the 5 quart jugs of 20w-50 are only like 7 bucks at Wal Mart.

 

I think I figured out where it's coming from. There'd been a bend in the pan on one corner of the hump for the oil pump, and we'd flattened it back out pretty good, and I put some RTV on that corner when I installed the pan. We'd stopped so I can plug the CAD lines back on, I noticed a huge smear of oil on that part of the pan. That obviously wouldn't be there if it was the RMS leaking. Hopefully I can get that fixed in the next week.

[Jakeman17]

Glad its up and running

[HOrnbrod]

I think I figured out where it's coming from. There'd been a bend in the pan on one corner of the hump for the oil pump, and we'd flattened it back out pretty good, and I put some RTV on that corner when I installed the pan. We'd stopped so I can plug the CAD lines back on, I noticed a huge smear of oil on that part of the pan. That obviously wouldn't be there if it was the RMS leaking. Hopefully I can get that fixed in the next week.

 

If it's unfixable and you have to pull one out of a junkyard, you might think about an oil pan from a 4.2 engine. They are a little deeper because of the 4.2's longer oil pump and hold an extra quart of oil. And they are bolt-on. :cheers: If I ever have to pull my pan that's what I'm going to put on.

[Lenard]

Glad to hear that Correy :cheers:

got any of your mj's down here yet? :D

[aemsee]

I think I figured out where it's coming from. There'd been a bend in the pan on one corner of the hump for the oil pump, and we'd flattened it back out pretty good, and I put some RTV on that corner when I installed the pan. We'd stopped so I can plug the CAD lines back on, I noticed a huge smear of oil on that part of the pan. That obviously wouldn't be there if it was the RMS leaking. Hopefully I can get that fixed in the next week.

 

If it's unfixable and you have to pull one out of a junkyard, you might think about an oil pan from a 4.2 engine. They are a little deeper because of the 4.2's longer oil pump and hold an extra quart of oil. And they are bolt-on. :cheers: If I ever have to pull my pan that's what I'm going to put on.

 

Around these parts the 4.2 pans tend to be rotted messes because of the design with the added plate on the bottom. Of course y'all don't put much salt on the roads down there!

 

 

Glad to hear you're up and runnin' again!