Geonovast Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 If it's not Limited slip, jack up one rear wheel, put the vehicle in neutral, and rotate the wheel twice. Count the number of times it rotates. That'll roughly tell you the ratio. I.E., if it turns just over 4 times, your ratio is 4.10:1 If it is Limited slip, jack up both tires and turn them once-make sure they both turn exactly once. That'll tell you the ratio.
Pete M Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 I have yet to get to the point of swapping in an 8.8. way stronger than a Dana 35 and way more available in the yards than an MJ/XJ Dana 44 (and the disk brakes and 4.10 gears are just a bonus).
Pete M Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 is there an easy way to identify the 8.8 ratios w/o pulling the cover? like at the pull-apart There's a tag on the diff cover (and unlike the old Jeeps, that tag is usually there and not rusted away). If it has 2 tags, then it's likely a posi diff too.
ncgamedog Posted September 8, 2009 Author Posted September 8, 2009 If it's not Limited slip, jack up one rear wheel, put the vehicle in neutral, and rotate the wheel twice. Count the number of times it rotates. That'll roughly tell you the ratio. I.E., if it turns just over 4 times, your ratio is 4.10:1 If it is Limited slip, jack up both tires and turn them once-make sure they both turn exactly once. That'll tell you the ratio. yeah thats the ole' quick and dirty way...I didnt know if there was an ID tag or marking of some kind. Toys use a certian color paint on the pinion nut to identify the ratio. like pink=4:10 white=4:30
ncgamedog Posted September 8, 2009 Author Posted September 8, 2009 is there an easy way to identify the 8.8 ratios w/o pulling the cover? like at the pull-apart There's a tag on the diff cover (and unlike the old Jeeps, that tag is usually there and not rusted away). If it has 2 tags, then it's likely a posi diff too. nice! Is there a year range I should look for? Are the perches the right width? really wouldnt hurt my feelings if they were set up spring over too. Can you use stock xj springs in a spring over situation and gain less lift than stock Mj's?
ncgamedog Posted September 8, 2009 Author Posted September 8, 2009 By the way...I really appreciate this awesome crash coarse guys!
Geonovast Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 Can you use stock xj springs in a spring over situation and gain less lift than stock Mj's? Nope, XJ leafs are a lot shorter. You can use XJ shackles to drop it down some, and if you don't ever haul anything, you can remove the overload leaf.
Pete M Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 95-01 are disk braked. ANY axle you plan to swap in (except for another MJ axle) will require welding on new perches in the proper location. Don't even think about SOA if you're just looking for 3". HellCreek makes a great leafpack for a 3" lift if you want something better than an AAL. Also, the v6 and v8 axles are identical except for the bracketry you're going to cut of anyway, so don't spend any extra on one from a v8 Explorer thinking it's somehow better. :thumbsup:
ncgamedog Posted September 8, 2009 Author Posted September 8, 2009 haha ok. Next question: if I do go rear disk which master cyl/prop valve will I need?
Pete M Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 The front "prop valve" in an MJ isn't actually a prop valve, just a splitter. The MJ has a height sensing prop valve in the rear. Technically, you could use the rod length to vary the amount of power getting to the rear.
ncgamedog Posted September 8, 2009 Author Posted September 8, 2009 so the stock brake master will be fine w/ no mods to run disks in the rear? here is a decent deal on some axles: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=18117
Geonovast Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 A set from an MJ would be your best bet for getting it 4wd right away. Then you could take your time with the rear axle, if you're nice to that D35 you should be ok for a bit.
Pete M Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 And I forgot to mention that it's the Explorer 8.8 that you'd be looking for, not the other 8.8s that Ford shoved under just about everything.
ncgamedog Posted September 8, 2009 Author Posted September 8, 2009 :thumbsup: can't wait to be this thing...haha
ncgamedog Posted September 8, 2009 Author Posted September 8, 2009 will bumpers that fit XJ's fit the MJ?
Geonovast Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 Fronts are identical, rears are different.
Eagle Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 thoughts on running a toyota rear? 6-bolt hubs. Jeep rims won't fit. Bad idea Remember that the Exploder 8.8 is considerably narrower than the XJ/MJ axle. If you use an 8.8 in the back, you MUST use either aftermarket rims with a lot less backspacing, or run spacers in the rear. The aftermarket rims create problems in the front, because they won't stuff inside the flares and fenders in the front. I know the 8.8 seems to have developed a following but, personally, I think a late model, 29-spline XJ Mopar 8-1/4" axle is a much smarter swap for an MJ. It's the right width, the pinion yoke is already set up for a Jeep drive shaft, and it's nearly as strong as a Dana 44. All late model 4-cylinder XJs had 4.10 gears. Should be easy to find.
Pete M Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 The Explorer 8.8 is 5/8" narrower on each side.
ncgamedog Posted September 8, 2009 Author Posted September 8, 2009 will an ax-15 from a 98 TJ work w/ no mods? other than whatever it takes to make the external slave work? found a rubi 241 case...will it bolt up to any ax-15? thanks again guys!
Pete M Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 -The TJ AX-15 shifter is a bit different (taller) than an MJ/XJ shifter. It can work, or an XJ/MJ version will swap right in -the YJ/TJ transmissions clock (rotate) the t-case up a bit. some guys have reported needing to take a hammer to the floorboards to make sure the t-case doesn't contact, other have not needed too -you'll need a pilot bushing for a mid 70s CJ 304 the rubi case should bolt up to any AX-15 (both should be 23 spline) but you'll need to figure out how to do the shifter linkage since the YJ/TJ links are a bit different than the MJ/XJ stuff. I put a 99 TJ AX-15/231 into my 88 MJ using the CJ bushing, the TJ shifter, no hammering of the floor, a custom crossmember, a mishmash of TJ and MJ linkage pieces, and I adapted the TJ slave line to my stock MJ master line with a $2 compression fitting from the hardware store. Would I do it again? yes. :D stock T-case in a TJ on top. stock t-case in an MJ on the bottom
ncgamedog Posted September 8, 2009 Author Posted September 8, 2009 I was told I might need the TJ flywheel and clutch too...true or false?
Pete M Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 I reused my 88 clutch. The flywheel has the CPS tone notches on it and must stay matched to the engine operating system.
Geonovast Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 Why would he need the CJ pilot bushing? I thought that was for putting it behind a Renix?
ncgamedog Posted September 8, 2009 Author Posted September 8, 2009 If i end up w/ a YJ/TJ trans, could I change the shifter out for my MJ one?
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