Oizarod115 Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 when eagle or someone tells you that the head was redesigned and that the renix ports are different than the HO and later motors... THEY MEAN IT... i'll take pics monday. my truck had a motor swap done on it before i purchased it 3 yrs ago, the original 89 replaced with a 97 but bolted all the 89 accessories and whatnot (intake, ps pump, exhaust manifold, a/c) all of it was 89 stuff... the intake ports were partially blocked by gasket, and the intake was 1/4" blocked off on the bottom by the head, and the fuel injectors were spraying nearly directly into the head instead of into the port. i'm expecting a HUGE improvement in the way the truck runs, replacing the intake with a 2000 and HO throttle body and stuff, replacing the exhaust with a 95(ish) factory style header. wish me luck boys! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 wow. yeah you should have much improvement with the updates. :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdocdave Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 what hacks, you will be very pleased when you get it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted August 8, 2009 Author Share Posted August 8, 2009 haven't had much time to work on this project because we've picked up at work, but hopefully we'll have a slow day soon! i hit the junkyard today and picked up a late-model throttle cable and bracket (just H.O. stuff) and apparently it attaches to the fuel pedal the same way and uses the same hole in the firewall so thats one more hurtle jumped! all i gotta do is bolt it together splice some wires and convert my head-pipe to fit on the 91-99 style exhaust and we'll be good. and i'll make sure to take some pictures and post all the info so that you Renix guys like me can convert if you want to! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted August 11, 2009 Author Share Posted August 11, 2009 got to tinker on my truck today a little, (slow day) got the intermediate pipe off and after some figuring and getting really filthy decided that a 55$ shipped walker direct fit piece was the way to go rather than half-arsed converting the old renix pipe. also looked at the fuel lines, i have some off a 95HO that i'm going to run to the fuel rail because the renix ones are entirely different, think i'm going to go back and get some more of the HO lines further back so i can splice them in with compression fittings along the frame-rail then still have the clips like an HO so they can be removed without major surgery in the future. havent spliced the wiring for the throttle body yet, but i got all the wires labeled and ready to go, put on the HO style throttle cable and attached it, works great. same exact pedal assembly so no swapping required just two hands! hung the P/S pump on it and discovered i don't have the 3 bolts that attach it to the intake so i need to get those, and i need to re-work the renix style P/S return line because the newer one fights with my lower rad. hose. but i got the pressure hose in and snugged up, and the bracket for the PS pump on there, bolts right on! i'll have to figure out what length belt i need for it at some point. lots of work but i'm SURE it'll be worth it! (at least it won't stink anymore cause it's getting a fresh converter to replace my empty one!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbhill Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 :thumbsup: wondering were u ben hiding haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 some progress pics on the intake swap, things to do: need a little bit more of the HO fuel lines, so i can compression fitting them on the frame-rail and still remove the front half of the lines replace upper and lower rad. hoses (appear original :ack:) intermediate pipe for exhaust should arrive tomorrow, install that, and then put in the new muffler and converter clean up wiring with some tape/loom, go through and plug it all in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 oh yeah, i need to run/plug all the vacuum lines/ports too. keep in mind this is on a renix jeep so none of this stuff plugs together, MANY junkyard trips have been necessary. i'm thinking it will end up with a 2000ish cherokee serpentine belt, and the routing for it too, but leave the idler over by the a/c, might be a little tighter fit than it is on a 2000 but i think it'll work, my buddy has one so i'm gonna see if i can borrow his belt to check it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbhill Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 well, i got it running thursday afternoon, it idles a little high but i need to finish it up before any diagnosis can be made. still left to do, -install intermediate pipe -weld in new cat/flowmaster 50 -measure for and buy a serpentine belt -re-torque all bolts/check all connections but it runs!!! :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 What are you going to do about the EGR? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 I used the 1999+ XJ 4.0L w. A/C belt. Remove the old idler pulley and save it for a spare; use the new P/S idler pulley to adjust the belt. Routing is like below: Forget the red "BELT TOWARD REAR" text; that's a reminder to myself since I have a 7-spline Dodge 134A alternator mounted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 thats the belt i was thinking i'd need, i had one off a OBD1 jeep that doesn't fit BARELY and i think it might be the same as a 99+ belt, i'll have to find out about that. how close is the belt to hitting on the mount for that idler? it looked REAL close is why i hadn't done what you described yet... i was hoping to use the 99 belt with the extra idler running the routing you posted, and if not i was going to buy one slightly longer and run that... but if yours is working fine set-up like i wanted to then i'll just do that! What are you going to do about the EGR? as for the EGR the motor was redesigned and EGR dropped in 91 with the OBD1 system... since the dropping of EGR was in the timing and valving (if i understand correctly) the motor in my truck should be designed to work well without EGR and i'm hoping to pass SMOG inspection with the new cat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 thats the belt i was thinking i'd need, i had one off a OBD1 jeep that doesn't fit BARELY and i think it might be the same as a 99+ belt, i'll have to find out about that. how close is the belt to hitting on the mount for that idler? it looked REAL close is why i hadn't done what you described yet... i was hoping to use the 99 belt with the extra idler running the routing you posted, and if not i was going to buy one slightly longer and run that... but if yours is working fine set-up like i wanted to then i'll just do that! The 99+ belt is just slightly longer than the ODB1 belt. I tried to reuse my OBDI belt and was maxed out on the tension adjustment. The 99+ belt tightens up right around mid-bolt and allows plenty and wiggle-room for future expansion. It's close to the old pulley mount, maybe 3/8" after adjusting, and have been running it now for a few thousand miles now w. no problems. BTW, this is exactly the same routing as on the 99+ XJs w. A/C. I used a Gatorback belt. HTH. :cheers: You got smog tests in GA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 only in 11 counties, metro atl area i think maybe some in athens too? i'm confident she'll pass... i was able to screw up the timing bad enough and crank on my adj. map sensor and get it to pass in 07 with a hollow cat (she blew the pieces out at some point?) yeah, i looked up the belt routing on it on shopkey at work, thanks for the input, sounds like thats just what i'll do. to bad we can't run dual adjusters!! that'd screw someone up 20 years down the road :rotfl2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 as for the EGR the motor was redesigned and EGR dropped in 91 with the OBD1 system... since the dropping of EGR was in the timing and valving (if i understand correctly) the motor in my truck should be designed to work well without EGR and i'm hoping to pass SMOG inspection with the new cat The EGR helps reduce NOX. The cat has nothing to do with NOX or eliminating NOX. HOs are harder to pass because of this. I don't know about Georgia SMOG tests but you will not pass a visual out here without the EGR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbhill Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 my ranger barely passed without an EGR... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 no visual inspections, and i can run it a little cool if i have to to make up for it, she'll pass not worried about that part of things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Cool thread - I'm going to be transplanting an engine from a 2001 Cherokee into my 1988 MJ in the very near future. Yes, I'm aware of the cylinder head cracking issues on those engines, but I'm going to take my chances. I like to live dangerously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoTGoD Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Yes, I'm aware of the cylinder head cracking issues on those engines, but I'm going to take my chances. I like to live dangerously. 0331...lolz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Yes, I'm aware of the cylinder head cracking issues on those engines, but I'm going to take my chances. I like to live dangerously. 0331...lolz Yep, I've got an original with 157K miles on it and no cracking yet. They have a bad reputation in the Jeep community, but it looks like there was a bad run of these heads as there are a lot of 0331 heads still on the road with more miles than me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 17, 2009 Author Share Posted September 17, 2009 my buddy runs an 01 motor and i don't know what the difference is but that motor runs like HELL... it was in a 93 for a long time that with 3.55 gears and 35s/automatic would stick right with my 5spd on 29s now he's swapped it into a 99 cherokee that i used to be able to tromp on with its motor and it flies... so it has to be in the motor. anyways!!! THE TRUCK RUNS! got the belt figured out today, i have NO IDEA what the difference is between our pulleys hornbrod but the 99-00 belt was way to short... ended up with a 6pk2025. got the cat bolted up, need to weld in the muffler and get an emissions test on it. :banana: :banana: runs great! idles perfect, doesn't stink!!!! woohoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 got the belt figured out today, i have NO IDEA what the difference is between our pulleys hornbrod but the 99-00 belt was way to short... ended up with a 6pk2025. runs great! idles perfect, doesn't stink!!!! woohoo Nor do I. :hmm: Should have worked. Guess you removed the old idler pulley and routed it as in the diagram? I don't get it mate. But anyhow, glad you got 'er done! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 17, 2009 Author Share Posted September 17, 2009 got the belt figured out today, i have NO IDEA what the difference is between our pulleys hornbrod but the 99-00 belt was way to short... ended up with a 6pk2025. runs great! idles perfect, doesn't stink!!!! woohoo Nor do I. :hmm: Should have worked. Guess you removed the old idler pulley and routed it as in the diagram? I don't get it mate. But anyhow, glad you got 'er done! :cheers: yeah that pulley got the boot, i was going to keep it since the cherokee belt wouldn't work anyways but after 4 tries i figured i'd give the parts guy a break and just run it removed... if it becomes a problem i'll need the next belt size up to add it back in. :clapping: i'll clean it up some-more, pretty up the vacuum add some wire loom, and then take some pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 One of the pulleys has to be a larger diameter. I'm thinking it's the A/C pulley. It looks a bit larger and higher up than mine. Everything else should be the same w. the possible exception of the alt pulley. But that's real good stuff, 99+ intake on a Renix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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