jeep_freek88 Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Well I'm going to replace the rear main seal in my MJ....I'm just looking for tips and instructions........ I got the fel pro main seal, and a fel pro oil pan gasket....... sweet oil pan gasket :cheers: Thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 First tip. Drain the oil and let it sit a day or so before doing the job.Less to fall in your face. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallisek Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Good website with lots of write-ups and pictures. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoRearMain.htm If I were you, I'd keep all the oil pan bolts in order as you take them out. Some are different sizes and it is damn frustrating to hold the pan up by yourself and realize you have the wrong size bolt. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSHAGNASTY Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 yes drain the oil first unless you wanna work with it. depending on if yours is auto or manual mine was auto so you have to take down the oil pan I'm pretty sure u have to pull the tranny off mabe, mabe not i did just incase. if so scrap all the gasket off from around the bottom of the engine, buy a new gasket. the piece ur rear main seal sits in do not drop it or get any scars in it. there should be two bolts that hold it up. in your owners manual it tells u how many pounds of pressure those bolts need i think its 80lbs. make sure you put every bolt back in haha. its not to hard, it took me like 3days because i had to keep running back to my house for tools and bolts that are stiped are a pain. if i can think of more ill post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeep_freek88 Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 Thanks for all the advise ill let you all know how it goes.....Oh and I don't need to remove the tranny........ :shake: thank god :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbert001 Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 First tip. Drain the oil and let it sit a day or so before doing the job.Less to fall in your face. agree I wish I had done this! I had oil dripping in my eyes, ears, nose, etc.! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailReadyMJ Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Make sure you use a BRASS punch to remove the upper half of the seal. You don't want to damage the crank or block. Removing this can be the most frustrating part of the job. I've done a couple that came right out, but usually it's a PITA to get it started. As mentioned, make sure you keep all the bolts in order, especially the ones for the rear bearing cap (including the cap itself). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 A plastic punch works good too. No matter how long it sits, the engine will still drip oil on you. :ack: Be prepared and wear eye/ear protection. Let the silicone sit and cure before firing up the truck. Take your time and make sure you won't need the truck the following day. Plenty can go wrong that might require a trip to the always-closed-when-you-need-it-most parts store. As far as I know, all 4.0s can have the RMS replaced without removing the transmissions. 2.5Ls have a one-piece seal that requires tranny removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 Am I nuts here, or I thought that the Mopar gasket was the better way to go on the oil pan. IIRC it was a one piece, unlike the parts store ones that came in parts, and required silicone. I remember taking a one-piece gasket out of a mopar box, and using no goo... :dunno: Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 Am I nuts here, or I thought that the Mopar gasket was the better way to go on the oil pan. IIRC it was a one piece, unlike the parts store ones that came in parts, and required silicone. I remember taking a one-piece gasket out of a mopar box, and using no goo... :dunno: Rob L. You can get the one-piece gasket aftermarket, too. Chrysler started using it in 1994 or 1995, so regardless of what year your MJ or engine is, just order a pan gasket for a 95 XJ 4.0L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbert001 Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 I just did mine a few weeks ago, and I used the molded rubber pan gasket while I was in there. I think it was like $22 at vatozone. I'm glad I did, because my oil pickup is sucking air, so I need to get back in there and replace it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeep_freek88 Posted July 3, 2009 Author Share Posted July 3, 2009 the felpro oil pan gasket is a one piece rubber gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 the felpro oil pan gasket is a one piece rubber gasket. Fel-Pro makes both types. You have to specify the one for the late model engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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