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AX15 conversion


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I know that I have plenty to learn. I was looking at some pics of Comanches on a Car Domine page and saw a comment about converting an internal slaved AX15 to an external slaved one. I would like to read what is involved in this conversion to see if it is feasible for me. Any sources that you can point me to would be greatly appreciated.

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You'll need:

External slave bellhousing (any 94+ bell should be external)

Bearing retainer

Throwout arm

Throwout bearing

External slave

Different clutch line(I went from an internal AX-4 to an external AX-5 and used the clutch line from my 88 4.0 BA 10/5)

 

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the pressure plate may be different.

 

Hardest part is getting a new clutch line in there. Everything else is a direct swap.

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I have an 89 2WD Peugot BA10/5 that I was told was working but the throwout bearing donut went out. I have no first hand knowledge of it being alright. I am replacing it with an AX15 with an external slave

 

Is there already an internal slave AX-15 in the truck, or are you going from a BA 10/5 to an AX-15 at the same time?

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When changing the clutch line I'd recomend just swapping the whole clutch setup. I changed everything but the pedal on mine: Clutch master cylinder/hard plastic line/external slave/etc the whole works. Only reason I recomend it is (at least on mine ('88 4.0)) the BA-10's line screws into the master cylinder and slave but the internal newer style has plastic ends that are held in place with a little pin. I tried ti adapt the lines but that didn't work, and after spending extra money that I didn't have trying to make it work I went to a j/y and pulled the whole thing and it went right in in like 15mins and I haven't had a problem with it since.

 

This isn't a really hard swap if you've messed with trannys before just make sure you can stay calm under stress, I hurt my hands a few times punching the underside of the truck. I think the clutches are the same size, but seeing how I was changing the tranny/slave cylinder set up I figured a new clutch kit was the smart thing to do. After tearing it apart I know that I don't want to do that again anytime soon.

 

-Cody

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I ask about the original trans, because if you're going from a BA to an AX-15, you'll need a different pilot bushing.

 

There's a very accurate way of testing the clutch setup with an external without having the trans in. I highly recommend doing this, especially since you already have to change the bellhousing.

 

When you get all your parts together, bolt the clutch and PP up like normal, using the alignment tool. Then, put the throwout arm, bearing, and slave assembly on the bellhousing. Bolt the bellhousing to the motor. Hook up all your slave hydraulics, make sure you have the line out of the way of where the transmission will go. (I can't remember which side the AX-15 slave is on, but I had to do that with mine, because the 93 AX-5 slave is on the passenger side.)

 

Take the slave off the housing and bleed it. The slave cylinder has to be completely compressed to bleed it properly. They sell a special tool for it, but you can use an old exhaust clamp flange and some long bolts.

 

Once it's bled, reattach the slave to the housing, and have someone in the truck working the pedal. When the clutch isn't pushed in, you should not be able to turn the clutch with the alignment tool. Have them push in the clutch. You should be able to turn the tool freely. If it doesn't work, either it's not completely bled or there's a problem with the pushrod length.

 

Once you get the clutch all working correctly, take the slave off the bellhousing. and the bellhousing back off the motor, attach to the trans, and install normally.

 

The test takes a bit of your time, but it will prevent you from having to take the trans out multiple times if there's clutch problems.

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Seems you guys have covered the basics so I'll just add that I adapted the new plastic slave line to my old steel master line (the master was practically brand new at the time) using a 1/4"-to-5/16" compression fitting from the hardware store. :thumbsup:

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  • 1 month later...
Seems you guys have covered the basics so I'll just add that I adapted the new plastic slave line to my old steel master line (the master was practically brand new at the time) using a 1/4"-to-5/16" compression fitting from the hardware store. :thumbsup:

 

Pete,

Do you have any pics of this? Specifically where in-line did you adapt it with the fitting? I to have a new clutch master with the threaded connection under the motor, and want to adapt that to my external slave with the set pin connection. I see you used the compression fitting, but can you tell me where in the setup that fitting is located? I've got the tranny in and mounted up, just need to get the slave on there!

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Well I learned a few things trying this swap.

 

1. TJ slave and master are different... at least the master is.

2. 96 xj master does not fit the AA kit

3. The AA kit has to be run along the firewall, over the brake booster then down to have enough line. Even then it is tight.

4.AA clutch line kit uses specail fittings that NAPA doent sell (thought there was a difference in line length and I was going to add a lil to make sure it would work)

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I'm going to be doing this swap along with converting to 4x4 at the same time...

 

Does anyone know if I pick up a 91+ transfer case with the VSS output, will my Renix era speedo cable bolt into place there? Do I need a longer cable? Thanks for any help

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I think (but am unsure) that you'll need a 4x4 cable assembly. But the hole should be the same, you'll need to swap the speedo housing into the new t-case. You may need to swap around some of the guts inside. I needed the gear shaft from the old t-case, but the gear from the new, or was it the opposite? Anyway, yes, it's possible. :thumbsup:

 

 

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I think (but am unsure) that you'll need a 4x4 cable assembly. But the hole should be the same, you'll need to swap the speedo housing into the new t-case. You may need to swap around some of the guts inside. I needed the gear shaft from the old t-case, but the gear from the new, or was it the opposite? Anyway, yes, it's possible. :thumbsup:

 

 

 

Good to know! So the old speedo housing should bolt to any newer NP231? My speedo cable looks to have alot of slack, so it may reach further back to the tcase. I will post the info if it works. :cheers:

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