mjtjnj Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 ugh those crazy lines. Just putting my 87 2.5, now with clifford 4cyl header, back together. Anyone got an online vacuum diagram so that I can remember where all the lines go??? Thanks Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 Isn't there some kind of a vacuum line diagram on an emissions sticker in the engine compartment? :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjtjnj Posted August 20, 2006 Author Share Posted August 20, 2006 Hey Pete, If there was, mine's missing. I crossed something up during re-assembly. I had removed the thermostatic air cleaner stuff, and put a screw in the vacuum line a couple of years ago, and no problems. So I made some bonehead vacuum line swap and now the truck is racing like you can't believe. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ORCA Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 Or I like the first one better. They both have vacuum diagrams though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 My Haynes didn't have the Vacuum Diagram. For the life of me, I could not get a pic that was legible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjtjnj Posted August 21, 2006 Author Share Posted August 21, 2006 Thanks for trying, guys. I have the first book, I just can't make heads or tails of the diagram when I look under my hood. There are FIVE ports in question: two on the side of the throttle body, facing the valve cover. I think one goes to the MAP and one to the rear grommet on the valve cover. There is an L valve on top of the intake manifold, and I'm not sure where the lines that draw vacuum from these run. Finally, there are two ports on the backside of the air cleaner. The bottom one is just a plug, in otherwords it's not functional. I'm not sure what line goes to the top one. Just so I'm not blind to what I might have done wrong here, if it's not the vacuum setup (and believe me, I've tried a few different ways), what else would cause my engine to tach at about 5 grand and stay there on startup? The throttle is closed, I even disco'd the IAC motor. What have I done???? :mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 TPS? Is the brake booster vacuum line connected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjtjnj Posted August 21, 2006 Author Share Posted August 21, 2006 yup, the brake booster line is connected. I checked the connector at the TPS, pulled it off and put it back in. Never took the TPS off the throttle body for this project... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Seems prudent to check to see if the little TPS arm isn't stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjtjnj Posted August 21, 2006 Author Share Posted August 21, 2006 Yeah, I think I'm good there. When you open the throttle, that little lever gets pushed downwards, right? Seems to move freely. :hateputers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
512tr Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjtjnj Posted August 21, 2006 Author Share Posted August 21, 2006 could it be because the EGR air tube is not hooked up to the header? It needs to be modified ?? :headpop: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjtjnj Posted August 30, 2006 Author Share Posted August 30, 2006 Yup, I'm a dope; that was the problem. Now for vacuum lines, any one know what lines go to the back of the air cleaner??? One's a working port and one's just a plug. Any 2.5L guys out there???? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 Grrr. All my photos cut off the air box barely, and now the engine's out. Sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjtjnj Posted September 1, 2006 Author Share Posted September 1, 2006 That's ok, I think I have it figured. Someone over on 4bangerjp had a more detailed diagram than the one above, and that clicked it for me! This project has been so bad. I still haven't gotten the EGR tube back on because you have to fab it, and I'm a bad steel fabber, and a worse TUBE fabber. There's weld everywhere, and the pipe looks like a pretzel. Bought another MJ just to drive around in while this project is laid up!! I've truly lost it.. :nuts: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjtjnj Posted September 5, 2006 Author Share Posted September 5, 2006 Ok, So I finally fabbed the steel EGR line and the engine is still off to the races. I have all the vacuum lines hooked up as in the diagram, but it's really taching like wild (no tach so no idea). I put on an exhaust header, so I had all the lines off, the intake, and put it all back carefully. WTF would make it idle like this? Some people thought the EGR tube being off, but now it's on, and I have an open header...could the engine be reading this as a lean condition and racing? I am stumped... :hateputers: Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whowey Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Tube bending isn't bad. Just take your time. Plan ahead(read: buy extra) I always try to think of it as the same as bending DOM stuff. You would measure DOM tubing 4 or 5 times because of not wanting to waste any. Use the same care with the small cheap stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjtjnj Posted September 5, 2006 Author Share Posted September 5, 2006 the bending is done, I'm wondering why the engine is racing...any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Gasket leak at the intake manifold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 I had the gasket leak and mine would do this alot it would also backfire when i was just driving around. Spray around it with carb cleaner or starter fluid and get it all around the cracks to see if it revs or dies down if it does where your spraying is the bad spot. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjtjnj Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 I had the gasket leak and mine would do this alot it would also backfire when i was just driving around. Spray around it with carb cleaner or starter fluid and get it all around the cracks to see if it revs or dies down if it does where your spraying is the bad spot. Cole I'd be really surpsied if my new semi-metallic combo (intake exhaust) gasket was leaking. :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Yeah but it can't hurt to check. :brows: :dunno: Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 I'm still suspecting a major vaccuum leak somewhere on the intake, but I snapped a couple pics of the vac lines on my 2.5 for you to reference. On the passenger side of the TB, there are 2 vac ports. The lower one goes direct to the back of the VC, and the upper one goes thru the plastic vac tree to the MAP. On the top of the TB cover, driverside rear, there are 2 vac ports. The lower one goes to a vac port on the intake manifold, and the upper snakes around the back of the TC, thru the vac tree, to the EGR solenoid. Hope that helps Tom. If you need any other pics lemme know...I've got the dig cam and the MJ here with me at work. I can post 'em up in a jiffy (the boss is off today :D ) Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjtjnj Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 On the passenger side of the TB, there are 2 vac ports. The lower one goes direct to the back of the VC, and the upper one goes thru the plastic vac tree to the MAP. On the top of the TB cover, driverside rear, there are 2 vac ports. The lower one goes to a vac port on the intake manifold, and the upper snakes around the back of the TC, thru the vac tree, to the EGR solenoid. Hey Jeff - Thanks. I'm with you on the TB ports. Those 2 vac ports, however, on the back of the TB cover, I have screwed up. The upper port is a dummy port, just a plug, so it's weird it goes to the EGR solenoid. Which part of the EGR solenoid does the other end go to? And I guess the vacuum line to the EGR valve goes to the other part of the EGR solenoid. Also, you mentioned the vac port on the intake manifold -- mine's L shaped, so it has 2 ports, really. Where does the other line from it go? Thanks a ton, Jeff! Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 I suck at the interweb, but lookie at this (almost as good as an FSM diagram :D ) *correction - the upper vac port on the TB housing goes thru the tree, back to the firewall, then over and down the driver side fender to the airbox (not to the EGR solenoid). The lower vac port goes to the manifold port. The larger vac line off the manifold port goes thru the tree over to the back side of the EGR solenoid The line off the EGR goes to the front side of the EGR solenoid Jeff Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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