sureshot007 Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 So I ran my first stage rally this past weekend. It was a learning experience. The comanche is a stock 86 2.5L rwd with a 7' bed. We need to do something about power and suspension. Since this is my first comanche, I am looking to you guys for guidance on the best bang for the buck stuff, as racing gets expensive quickly. First, let me introduce you to "The Chief" (we are at about 7:00 into the vid) What I am looking for is a suspension setup that would work like a baja trophy truck, but made from as many off the shelf parts as possible. And the rear drums have to go. So we were thinking of swapping a cherokee rear end, maybe an air locker?, stiffer springs front and rear, and good shocks. And a 5 speed, because this 4 speed is brutal on transits. We are also looking at a 4.0L swap as well. Plus we need to chop the bed behind the wheels. So if you were building an offroad race truck (not rock crawler), and you were on a tight budget, what would you do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 4.0 swap, truss the axles top and bottom, some good resi shocks, bumpstops (air bumps). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaquaro Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 I used to rallye an old Volvo 123 (Amazon ) back in the late 70's . Low power and 4 speed as well , We did amazingly well with some basic mods : softer springs w/bigger sway bars ,dual rear shocks w/ axel catch straps , rollbar cage , frt & rear frame stiffeners , air adjustable bump stops , dual hand-brakes (non locking ), cockpit adjustable brake bias control (frt/rear )and Hakapolita (Nokian now ) tires 'cause nobody in the world drives rallyes as well as the Finns and thats thier tire......Oh,and courageous navigator does'nt hurt either ....Rallye on ! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 I'd keep the 2.5 (Jeep was dominating the SCCA races with it back in the day) and swap in an AX-5 (goes right in place of the AX-4) and a 95+ Explorer 8.8 (with 4.10s and disk brakes). The 8.8 came with posi or open, so get an open if you want to throw in a locker. You most likely have a 3.55 geared rearend and that's absolutely killing your power. :( After that I'd swap in a v8 ZJ front sway bar (bigger), firmer shocks (rather than stiffer springs) and look into the air-charged bumpstops. Oh, and I'd drop the engine driven fan for an electric. Rust is so prevalent in my neck of the woods that I'd never ever voluntarily cut the bed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sureshot007 Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 I live in the rust belt too, but it will generally only be driven for rallies, and washed every time it sees snow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sureshot007 Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 I just double checked on the rules for Rally America - max displacement in Group 2 is 3 liters, and max in Group 5 is 5.1 liters. Group 5 includes forced induction. I'd rather stay in G2 for now, so what are my options for the 2.5L? I need something ultra reliable, but with some umph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Gears gears gears. If you've got 3.55s, those are really holding you back. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Maybe try switching to MPI 2.5L. That throttle body incection is holding back some power. You'll need an entire new harness, and the MPI manifold. Gears! I'm sure you need more low-end speed and torque, so those 3.55's arent helping. Go with 4.10's. Look for a 91+ ? 2.5L Cherokee and you could get the gears(came with 4.10's), 5 speed, and everything for the MPI conversion. Fiberglass bedsides? Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 After watching the vid: Awesome :bowdown: :bowdown: :cheers: :cheers: :chillin: :chillin: :clapping: :clapping: :thumbsup: :banana: :banana: :drool: :drool: :yes: :yes: AND a dixie air horn? Where can I get into this? I have enough junk sitting around... Could cobble up something... Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Swapping to MPI would give a bit of a boost for sure. Not sure how ambitious the OP is since that will require all new wiring throughout the truck. A fresh injector on the TBI should help the current system. :thumbsup: Too bad my Dakota already exceeds the max engine size. :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Too bad my Dakota already exceeds the max engine size. :doh: Still running the R/T? Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Too bad my Dakota already exceeds the max engine size. :doh: Still running the R/T? Rob L. Well, I still own the R/T. :shake: Haven't run it much lately. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Any reason why not? Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 $$$$$ or the lack there-of. But enough of this thread hijack. Thinking of my baby just sitting there is making me depressed. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Awesome! Not much help but i had to say it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaquaro Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 I just double checked on the rules for Rally America - max displacement in Group 2 is 3 liters, and max in Group 5 is 5.1 liters. Group 5 includes forced induction. I'd rather stay in G2 for now, so what are my options for the 2.5L? I need something ultra reliable, but with some umph. " First engine mods are relatively cheap , and increase performance noticibly .....the mods following will become more and more expensive and performance from them less and less "....Racing reality . Do the basics , great brakes make you faster than more HP , same with suspension , rallying is all about momentum ...drive smooth ,late brake , rotate back ....do it again , it's a great dance..... oops off topic -mild head shave W/tri-cut valve job ,port and polish intake and exhaust , headers , free flow cold air intake ,electric fan ,etc. The rest is common sense ,you can't win if you don't finish , re-inforce , locktite and double nut everything . :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Clifford performance offers a 4 barrel intake and header for the 2.5. A holley 390 4bbl carb system, and header would help tremendously. As well as the other mods previously mentioned. I know that this system gets you away from the original injection, but I guess it depends on how you want to build it. Oh, and Accelerated Motion offers a range of different cam kits for the 2.5 also. This thing could be killer! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Dude, I will hunt you down and beat the crap out of you if you don't stay active on this forum with pics, vids, and a project thread! :yes: Absolutely awesome! I will live vicariously through your posts! Hitting the Dukes of Hazzard horn in mid power slide, well, all I can say is that was classic. Welcome, and seriously, don't be a stranger! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sureshot007 Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 Thanks for all the kind words! You must forgive me for asking newbie questions, since this is my first comanche... Is it a good or bad idea to swap the rear end for a cherokee? I was thinking that since the springs are shorter, it would allow us to cut the bed a little shorter, but since the MJ is spring under and the XJ is spring over, I wasn't sure if it was going to yield a relatively similar ride height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 XJ springs are shorter and have a flatter arch. You can still use a cherokee rear and just move the mounting plates to re-use your MJ springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 I'm still unsure of why you want to cut the bed shorter. :hmm: Also, you aren't allowed to apologize for asking questions, no matter how noob you may think they are. :thumbsup: Just ask away! :cheers: See Rule #2: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16664 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sureshot007 Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 We hit the bumper on the ground a number of times at the last event due to "yumps" - its like a mound that's larger than a speed bump, that you get some air off of. The bed comes down and slaps the top of the yump. A shorter bed will stop that from happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sureshot007 Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 I think I forgot to mention that the previous owner welded the rear diff on it. It's held up pretty well thus far, but should we be concerned about it breaking any faster than anything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 We hit the bumper on the ground a number of times at the last event due to "yumps" - its like a mound that larger than a speed bump, that you get some air off of. The bed comes down and slaps the top of the yump. A shorter bed will stop that from happening. And the better suspension you plan on putting on. I think it looks cool with the long bed. But cool don't win races brutha! And on the diff, it should be a D35 and they're not know for durability. But if you swap it out for something with discs, as already mentioned, a Ford 8.8 is probably the best way to go unless you find a Cherokee with a D44 under it. Just don't get another D35 from under a Cherokee. You'll have disc brakes, but still a weak diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 I think for your purposes the explorer 8.8 with 4:10 gears and disc brakes, with or without limited slip would be the thing to do....or a Dana 44 with 4:10 gears. If what you have already is the Dana 35, don't expect it too last much longer. If I was you I would start right now looking for a better replacement. If you go spring over axle, you will gain 5-6 inches in the rear end. I'm not sure what your plans are, but that would make you have to raise the front too. Domino effect here! There are several threads on here in projects that go through cutting the rear of the bed so just search through some of the projects. I too would love to see what happens with this truck in the long run. Keep us updated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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