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Fuel pump assembly


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I have been living with a leaky fuel pump assembly for years. Mine leaks where the tubes go through the disk. Up until now I have not seen the complete assembly with the disk where it attaches to the tank. Has anyone put a AFE7091S AIRTEX ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP assembly in there 4.0L short bed?

 

AFE7091S.jpg

 

http://www2.discountjpparts.com/parts/p ... mp&dp=true

 

You might give these guys a call, there are a lot of us that have tried a number of vendors to get a replacement. In case you are not aware the Airtex is simply the Cherokee unit which does not fit the Comanche tank.

 

http://www.fuelsender.com/fuel_send.html

 

Don (Hornbrod) got lucky and found a brand new NOS unit on ebay, I know there is a renix unit at JW autowreckers. If you go that route you will need to replace the fuel pump, I went that route and wound up with a renix unit in my HO instrumentation. :fs1: It now reads the fuel reading backwards.

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I just posted this on another thread but it's about the same.

 

Yeah, no, I went thru this problem a while ago.

Nobody has a new carrier/sending unit as far as I know even though everyone will try to tell you they are the same for the XJ/MJ. (They are not.)

 

IIRC Dr. Thunder modified one but I can't remember how. You'll have to search the forum for it, and I don't think he ever made a write up.

 

Also if IIRC Wildman has a write-up on how to refurbish the senders and I even think he'll send you a rebuilt one. Sorry If I'm wrong about that being you Wildman. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Or you could post up a WTB ad in the classifieds for the correct sender (hopefully in good condition) and just buy the actual pump new from the store.

 

 

That's the sender DR.Thunder modified, by the way, I think.

Calling Dr. Wildman, please post or report to surgery in Room 6 stat.

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that, my fine feathered friend, is an XJ assembly as stated. I've got a brand spankin' new one of those, still in the box, sitting in the parts pile, anditdontwork ;)

 

If anyone knows anyone looking for an XJ assembly, let me know. I'll sell mine for half the cost.

 

Jeff

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I just posted this on another thread but it's about the same.

 

Yeah, no, I went thru this problem a while ago.

Nobody has a new carrier/sending unit as far as I know even though everyone will try to tell you they are the same for the XJ/MJ. (They are not.)

 

IIRC Dr. Thunder modified one but I can't remember how. You'll have to search the forum for it, and I don't think he ever made a write up.

 

Also if IIRC Wildman has a write-up on how to refurbish the senders and I even think he'll send you a rebuilt one. Sorry If I'm wrong about that being you Wildman. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Or you could post up a WTB ad in the classifieds for the correct sender (hopefully in good condition) and just buy the actual pump new from the store.

 

 

That's the sender DR.Thunder modified, by the way, I think.

Calling Dr. Wildman, please post or report to surgery in Room 6 stat.

 

 

Room 6???????

 

I thought I was in room 4, where the Tan couch is kept :hmm:

 

Ah, yea........PM me your shipping info, and I'll give you the info, I got a couple sender units on the shelf now, and I'll check them out and ship one to you, BUT......I request your old one back for the surgery to be preformed on it for some one else down the road :yes:

 

I did have a write up on what I do, but I couldn't find it :dunno:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Alright I thought I would share what I learned. Unfortunately despite a valid effort by Wildman the unit I got from him did not work for me. The 18 gallon tank has the longer fuel float arm. The arm can not easily be moved. It is welded to the pivot point.

 

This is by no means a step by step but just the key points.

 

My leak was minor so I went about fixing it. A skilled metal worker took a look and pointed out that the plumbing on the sender is soldered on with what appears to be lead solder. Once that was realized, I was able to fix my fuel pump sweating the union just like I would copper pipe with some old 50% lead solder. It held a full tank of gas for the first time in years.

 

The keys that I hope Wildman doesn't mind me sharing is the wiring. The wiring is held on by a 3/8" ID washer that has some teeth to it. I was surprised to find my local hardware store had these. I believe the o-ring is also 3/8". After replacing the o-ring and getting the washer in place I drove it on with a 1/2" deep well socket.

 

I was afraid to do this work for fear of not being able to get a new sending unit if I somehow damaged it and regret not taking the leap earlier in doing what turned out to be an easy fix. The much harder part was getting the tank up and down.

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The much harder part was getting the tank up and down.

Glad you got it fixed. :cheers:

 

What you quote as the harder part, actually is not necessary to do. The fuel pump assembly can be removed and replaced without taniking the tank down. ;)

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MV that is interesting. I wonder what tank uses that short arm float for proper gauge readings.

 

BLHTAZ I have done the sender without dropping the tank before. I used this opportunity to drop it and check to see if the rubber cone that is supposed to support the tank was in there somewhere. I looked and I did not have the rubber piece or the corresponding mounting plate as found in the Chilton's manual.

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MV that is interesting. I wonder what tank uses that short arm float for proper gauge readings.

 

BLHTAZ I have done the sender without dropping the tank before. I used this opportunity to drop it and check to see if the rubber cone that is supposed to support the tank was in there somewhere. I looked and I did not have the rubber piece or the corresponding mounting plate as found in the Chilton's manual.

 

Gotcha... :thumbsup:

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Yes, the tubes are solder at the mounting disk, BUT......most of the sending units I've found the tubes are rotted or near rotted on the exterior side of the disk, that's why I replace the tubes and weld them to the disk.

 

The tubes can be re-solder with 50/50, but brazing would be a better choice :D

 

Yes, the electrical connector has a 3/8 x 1/8 O-ring under it, and is held on to the disk with a 3/8" spring nut.

 

As we both found out, the swb, 18 gallon tank has the long arm float for the sender unit, and the lwb 23.5 gallon tank has the short arm float for the sender unit.

 

Send the unit back and I'll refund your $$$ when I receive it :D

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When I bought my truck it had a 23.5 gallon tank and a sender with the long arm. I got a short arm sender out of a junkyard MJ to use while I was fixing my original and it read full anywhere over 2/3 tank. Put my original long arm back in after I got it fixed and it works correctly again.

 

So why would the 23.5 gallon supposedly have the short arm one when mine came with a long arm, and only the long arm will read correctly?

 

Would the short arm maybe be for the 16 gallon tank? I can't remember the size tank I took it off.

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When I bought my truck it had a 23.5 gallon tank and a sender with the long arm. I got a short arm sender out of a junkyard MJ to use while I was fixing my original and it read full anywhere over 2/3 tank. Put my original long arm back in after I got it fixed and it works correctly again.

 

So why would the 23.5 gallon supposedly have the short arm one when mine came with a long arm, and only the long arm will read correctly?

 

Would the short arm maybe be for the 16 gallon tank? I can't remember the size tank I took it off.

 

Good question......... :dunno:

 

The only tanks I have are the 23.5 and the 18's.......I have sending units for both, but they were on the shelf, and not directly out of the tank. Next tank I pull, I'm going to double check.

 

skimore told me he had the 18 gallon tank, and I "assumed" that the short arm went with the smaller tank, and the long arm float went with the lwb tank :hmm: Thinking, longer arm, more radius = larger capacity tank. then I got the call, and was told he had the long arm in the swb tank,

 

I never win :(

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