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Brake booster upgrade


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I have seen a few articles on this, but i ran across this thread, and this seem to be the best and easiest upgrade. I got my master cylinder and booster from Rock Auto, about $150 for both. you will also need some adapters and some brake lines. Figure on spending about $200.00 Well worth it. for our MJ's go with a 94-95 booster and matching master cylinder. Everything will line up, you will have to drill out the hole in the booster rod to 9/16 or buy an aluminum spacer at the hardware store that has a 3/8 ID and 1/2 od.

 

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/showthread.php?t=3352

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I have this upgrade, along with rear discs from a 96 C/V, and the D44 out of my old XJ. It is SO nice to be able to not only slow down, but actually STOP in a hurry if I need to. A very worthwhile swap, I feel.

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I have this upgrade, along with rear discs from a 96 C/V, and the D44 out of my old XJ. It is SO nice to be able to not only slow down, but actually STOP in a hurry if I need to. A very worthwhile swap, I feel.

What is C/V? Crown Victoria? Got a D44 in my truck, how hard to install those discs?

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I have the WJ booster and master with Explorer rear discs. And it does make a huge difference.

 

No mods were needed on the booster rod to fit on my 92. They used two different setups. Mine was the same as later XJs with the newfangled retaining clip.

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No mods were needed on the booster rod to fit on my 92. They used two different setups. Mine was the same as later XJs with the newfangled retaining clip.

 

Likewise for me on my 91 using the 96 XJ booster, master, and Explorer disks. I did use the alum spacer. Super upgrade.

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I did a little more research, the newer booster needs a 1/4" spacer between the firewall and the booster for the brake pedal to be the correct height. You can get them from a later XJ in the boneyard or make one yourself.

here's a CAD drawing...

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I have this upgrade, along with rear discs from a 96 C/V, and the D44 out of my old XJ. It is SO nice to be able to not only slow down, but actually STOP in a hurry if I need to. A very worthwhile swap, I feel.

What is C/V? Crown Victoria? Got a D44 in my truck, how hard to install those discs?

I assume your all using Exploder axles, I'd like to keep the D44. Any info on above :dunno:

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Actually i found a problem with the writeup i linked to. The one adapter fitting specified, #7936 is a M10 x 1 thread. 3/16 brake tubing has a 3/8 x 24 thread, M10 is slightly bigger than 3/8 and a 1.0 metric pitch is a little more fine than 24 tpi ( 25.4 tpi actually). The correct fitting part # is 7974. These are all weatherhead part numbers. The list should read as follows:

 

#7974 3/16 to M12 x1 adapter Edelmann # 265000

#7909 3/16 to 5/16 adapter Edelmann # 258350

#7818 3/16 to 1/4 adapter Edelmann # 258340

#1442 3/16 to M10 x1 adapter Edelmann # 271300

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The booster from the 95 XJ already HAS the spacer plate on it, and I simply stuck the brakelight switch up where the hole for the cruise control switch is in the pedal bracket. As for the difference in the brakes lines at the master, I used the ones from the donor, and re-flared, since I have a flaring kit, and don't feel like having to hunt down "special" anythings for my projects. The reason that I used the brakes froma 1996 and later Crown Vic. (C/V), is that the retaining bolt pattern on the backing plate is smaller than the Exploder axle ( NO redrilling of the plates or flanges on the axletube). I cut the "spacer off of the drum brake plate, and then bolted the C/V brakes on to hte D44 that I kept when I junked my XJ. Oh, and on the Exploder axle... around here Piss on it! I am NOT paying that kind of $$$ ( $750) for an axle that has a few issues out of the box to start with, including an overrated "swapablity". NO wheel spacers for the XJ/MJ D44, really good aftermarket support and a negligible strength difference between the 2 axles. That, no fricken "C clips" to deal with- IF I need to replace a shaft, or work on a wheel bearing, I simply unbolt the axleshaft from the housing, instead of having to open the diff. and screw with the "c" clip, an oil change, plus re-sealing the housing.

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I assume your all using Exploder axles, I'd like to keep the D44. Any info on above :dunno:

 

Nope, I have the Explorer disc brakes on a Dana 44.

 

Ren - Did you keep the Crown Vic orientation? One leading caliper and one trailing caliper. Or did you switch to two trailing calipers?

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I assume your all using Exploder axles, I'd like to keep the D44. Any info on above :dunno:

 

Nope, I have the Explorer disc brakes on a Dana 44.

 

Ren - Did you keep the Crown Vic orientation? One leading caliper and one trailing caliper. Or did you switch to two trailing calipers?

Any info or link for Exploder disc swap? Thanks.

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The booster from the 95 XJ already HAS the spacer plate on it,

No sheite. But a lot of folks leave the plate on the ground after pulling the 95-96 booster/master. Really!

 

As for the difference in the brakes lines at the master, I used the ones from the donor, and re-flared, since I have a flaring kit, and don't feel like having to hunt down "special" anythings for my projects.

And definitely agree about re-using the original fittings on the master and combo valve.

 

I cut the "spacer off of the drum brake plate, and then bolted the C/V brakes on to hte D44..

Speaking about the D44, you know what I'm going to ask Ren. :D Shoot me a PM if you can.

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For the time being, I am running the C/V style of one lead/ one follow, as the brackets are setup for it. Later, I "might" fiddle with a twin "follow" setup.

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For the time being, I am running the C/V style of one lead/ one follow, as the brackets are setup for it. Later, I "might" fiddle with a twin "follow" setup.

 

Greatly appreciated if you can post some pix of what you have done. I looking to this my self here shortly. :cheers:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, i was having problems with the fittings in the block below the master cylinder, the one that turns on the brake warning light. I took it off and found that they have 2 brake lines going to the rear. They go to the Proportioning valve in the frame, that has a link down to the axle. My block was full of rust, and since i have a race truck i have no need for a valve in the back. I found a new block and adjustable valve assembly with a switch at summit racing. Price was a little steep at $115.00. I will just run one line back to the axle and adjust the valve manually.

 

By the way, on a comanche i purchased some years ago, the brake line to the rear failed in a panic stop situation. My son slammed on the brakes and the line split because it was so rusted. he ended up rear ending a guy. All our trucks are 15-20 years old or so. It is a good idea to check and/or replace the brake lines. If you live in a state where it snows and they put salt on the roads, even more important.

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When I did mine I didn't need the spacer and left it out mine came out of an automatic don't know I think some of these rod lenghts were different sizes. (Brake pedal would have been to low) Also the lines just needs to be rebend and will bolt directly in the Proportioning valve block.

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And yes the easy way is to redrill the eyelet larger and make a flat spot on the rod and use all the original brake switch etc. :cheers:

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Here it was when I found it in the Junk yard. lol

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