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Nut splitters....


james750
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My UCA attachment bolt heads are rounded off. I think that a nut splitter would be best to get the bolts out since I have new bolts with the new control arms. My question is, will a cheap manual nut splitter work for this? Don't have the money for a hydraulic one at the moment.

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Mine works pretty well. It was about 15 bucks at Sears.

 

Might not work toooo well on that since IIRC it's a flanged nut. Last time I had trouble getting it off, I heated it up with a propane torch and it came off ok.

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I don't think you would need a hydraulic nut splitter :shake:

 

Just a $10 nut splitter from sears, the parts store or what every all work the same.

 

Yea, there are cheap ones out there, and really expensive ones (Snap-on) but for how many times a day are you going to use it?? I've used a cold chisel on a lot of nuts to split them off before, as long as there is room to swing the hammer.

 

I'll agree with Dirty.......even a cheap angle grinder with a zip wheel will do alot of work before you brake a sweat, and it will work on both side of the bolt, the nut side or the head side if you need to.

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I'd really just recommend an el-cheapo angle grinder instead (if you do not have the funds for a GOOD one, such as a makita or dewalt). I have no idea how effective a nut-splitter is, but I don't think overly.

I think the grinder is a better investment. I returned my Sears nut-splitter after having zero luck getting it to work - never had that problem with the grinder :brows: . It should be disclosed that I have very little patience.

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I will try a grinder on it then. Quick question though. What is the hose/fitting that is attached at the end of the Driver side UCA bolt. and how do you remove that bracket. I'm afraid that I will hit it with the cutoff wheel with it on there.

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What's rounded off, the bolt heads or the nuts? Nut splitters work great on nuts, but they don't (and can't) do anything for you on bolt heads.

 

Are you sure you're using the correct socket? The control arm bolts are metric, not SAE.

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You don't need a nut splitter... LOL I THOUGHT this was going to be a rant about Busting peoples balls.. LOL!!!

Sears craftsman and others make a neat tool that looks like a socket, but instead of a hexagon shape inside its fluted and spiral. Made to remove rounded nuts and bolts. This kit has saved my arse many times!! My advice, CHECK IT OUT!!!!

 

http://www.ask.com/bar?q=sears+rounded+ ... eviews.htm

 

CW

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The bolt that is rounded off is the frame side bolt that has the head recessed into the frame, with an access hole to get to it. Also, on another note, don't drop your socket into that hole, it takes like 30mins with a magnetic pickup tool to get it out. :headpop:

 

I might go get one of those #7 removers, Thanks for the advice CW.

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The bolt that is rounded off is the frame side bolt that has the head recessed into the frame, with an access hole to get to it. Also, on another note, don't drop your socket into that hole, it takes like 30mins with a magnetic pickup tool to get it out. :headpop:

 

I might go get one of those #7 removers, Thanks for the advice CW.

 

That's supposed to be round. It should be attached to a plate that prevents the bolt from turning by jamming up against the frame.

 

Or am I thinking LCA? Been awhile since I've taken them off frame-side.

 

The stock bolt on axle side UCA is the one I was talking about.

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Not all of them are like that. Some have regular bolts. That goes for both ends of the UCAs. I don't know if there's a rhyme or reason to it.

 

If they're torx, and they are rusted, I'd probably save myself wasting frusteration and just cut the the nut off it and hammer the bolt out. Why waste time if it's going to be replaced?

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Also, on another note, don't drop your socket into that hole, it takes like 30mins with a magnetic pickup tool to get it out. :headpop:

:clapping: I was pretty positive I would never get mine out :rotfl2: .

 

Ahh - memories :cheers:

 

~ Back to the regularly scheduled thread

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