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if you had an airbox you could've drilled a couple 4 in. holes below the air filter. It gives you a little bit more power and it sounds kinda cool haha. buuuut, you're gonna go through a bunh of air filters taht way.

 

 

haha yeah thats not an option lol

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No real ways to add cheap power to the 4.0. All the "cold Air" intakes and throttle body spacers are gimmicks. To add power you either need to upgrade intake and exhaust THEN add a cam as well. Or build a stroker, add forced induction, or add nitrous.

 

There is no replacement for displacement.

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There is no replacement for displacement.

 

 

Gearing comes close. :D

 

 

Not if the 4.7 has the same gear... :brows:

 

For 31" tire 4.10 would be my gear choice no matter what trans it has.

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No real ways to add cheap power to the 4.0. All the "cold Air" intakes and throttle body spacers are gimmicks. To add power you either need to upgrade intake and exhaust THEN add a cam as well. Or build a stroker, add forced induction, or add nitrous.

 

 

I was wondering what you guys thought of this...

 

http://www.turbomirage.com/water-alcoho ... -list.html

 

John

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No real ways to add cheap power to the 4.0. All the "cold Air" intakes and throttle body spacers are gimmicks. To add power you either need to upgrade intake and exhaust THEN add a cam as well. Or build a stroker, add forced induction, or add nitrous.

 

 

I was wondering what you guys thought of this...

 

http://www.turbomirage.com/water-alcoho ... -list.html

 

John

Thats really only for turbo intercoolers..

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For 31" tire 4.10 would be my gear choice no matter what trans it has.

 

:agree: . Matching the correct gears w. your tires gives the best bang for the buck performance gains. And 31" tires w. 4.10 gears are a nearly perfect marriage. Here's how it worked out w. the AW4.

 

27" tires w. 3.55 gears = 1855 RPM @ 60 MPH & 2474 RPM @ 80 MPH

31" tires w. 4.10 gears = 1879 RPM @ 60 MPH & 2505 RPM @ 80 MPH

 

It moves the power band up about 12%-15% across the board which translates to more grunt off the line, better climbing on long grades, and in my case, a slight improvement in gas mileage.

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I have a hard time answering "gearing" when the question is "how do I make more power". Gearing is a great way to make the jeep itself quicker with the power it already makes. However it does so at the expense of top end torque and horsepower, limiting total speed. So if someone asks how to make the jeep faster or what is the best bang for the buck to make it quicker, yes. But I would not answer this for a question about what power mods to look into.

 

Don't get me wrong, I think gearing is a great way to make a track car cut a wicked 60' or 1/8th, and it will make a lifted jeep with bigger tires feel quick again. For me it is just a semantic or philosophical difference of opinion. Power is made from the engine.

 

That being said, I want a turboed 4cyl with 4.10 gears pushing lowpro's on my street MJ.

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yeah 4.10's will really increase your get up and go. and with the 4.0, its a great stock motor, but to add power to it will cost you way more then what its worth. the easiest way to put some power to the wheels of a jeep is SB power. i really hate the term " no replacement for displacement" cause it is so not true. them little japanesse and european motors blow away or motors hands down. like a 2.5 toyota motor over there puts out 320 HP at the crank where are stock 350's- 5.7 puts out under 300 to the crank. plus the balnacing of them motors is incredable. there deisels red line at what are gas engines redline at.

just my 2 cents :hijack:

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yeah 4.10's will really increase your get up and go. and with the 4.0, its a great stock motor, but to add power to it will cost you way more then what its worth. the easiest way to put some power to the wheels of a jeep is SB power. i really hate the term " no replacement for displacement" cause it is so not true. them little japanesse and european motors blow away or motors hands down. like a 2.5 toyota motor over there puts out 320 HP at the crank where are stock 350's- 5.7 puts out under 300 to the crank. plus the balnacing of them motors is incredable. there deisels red line at what are gas engines redline at.

just my 2 cents :hijack:

 

 

what toyota 2.5 gives you 320Hp? Is it turboed or supercharged. At the crank or at the wheels.

 

My Ls1 put down 343HP at the wheels with a tune and tubes... aint nothing but a tree fitty, or 346, whatever

 

The there is no displacement for displacement is true. And will remain so for quite some time. The only thing that seemingly breaks it is nitrous. And there is some different chemistry there making that one work. Some argue the forced induction proves it wrong, but at its roots forced induction is increasing the density of air in the cylinder, which at normal pressure would equal a larger displacement.

 

If you take that 2.5L and bore or stroke it it will increase the displacement and increase its capacity for making HP. Comparing a new motor to a 1950's design does not disprove the adage. The old apples and oranges idea.

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Yup, the tires are the problem and regearing is the solution. :thumbsup: Do it right, and it'll put a smile on your face every time you punch the gas. :D

 

 

I've heard that regearing give the most "bang for the buck" and I don't dispute that, necessarily. The question is "how much bang and how many bux" are we talking about?

 

I've been thinking of regearing to 4.10s since I put on the 31s, and holding off on the stroker, but I'm getting quotes of $1-1.3K to regear (since, out here, a used D30 with a 4.10 goes for $5-600), and a stroker might not cost more than $1.8K, since I can do a fair amount of the work myself.

 

I get the impression that many of you are thinking $5-600 for a total regear, and if so, I want some of what you're smoking! :thumbsup:

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If you can do all the work yourself a total regear may not cost that much, assuming that you use cheap genuwhine gears and cheap bearings. And that you do not have to replace a carrier, which you probably will.

 

I have 33's on my cherokee, before the stroker I was saving for a gear swap. Then I popped the motor. SO I took the money and built a stroker. I am actually pretty happy with 3.55's and the torque band of the motor. Granted I will be switching to 4.10's, but I have decided against the 4.56's I was considering before the motor swap.

 

You can build a stroker for $1.8k easily. I did. If you are doing all the assembly it comes out fine. The only thing I reused was my stock cam. Even had a 3angle done on the head and added a 00+ manifold.

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