SkipshotMJ

Hey guys! Its been a while since i posted last. The comanche has been running pretty damn good lately. Well finally my truck died on me again. I was driving around turned off the main road, hit a bump, and the comanche died. I tried to start it, but nothing. I knew it was the CPS sensor so i checked and it was. The wires going from the CPS sensor to the wiring harness had been too close to the header for to long and fried. I had a replacement and installed it, but now the comanche is running as if the timing is off. I had been using a high altitude CPS sensor (supposedly advances the timing) for the past year or so and it was running great. The replacement sensor was stock. I checked the timing by finding TDC and looking at the distributor (rotor and cap placement) and it was dead on. I'm about to go order a new High Altitude CPS sensor, but does anyone have any ideas? I have an '87 Jeep Comanche 4.0L I6 and AX-15 Tranny.

Hey guys, its been a while since i posted last. The comanche has been running great until recently. I went to Hollister Hills and ended up messing up the slave cylinder in my AX-15 tranny. A friend and I dropped the tranny, put a new slave back in, and bolted everything back up. Once this was all said and done I went to bleed the clutch. The bolt wouldn't budge and i was fed up with working on the jeep at that time so i had it taken to a shop and power bled. The mechanic wouldn't bleed anything without checking the master first so he went ahead and did that. Long story short after he bled the clutch it only runs on a couple cylinders. I've checked the CPS, distributor, cap, rotor, plug wires, I've looked at all the connections and i can't seem to figure it out. I swapped a new CPS on and it seemed to run a little better but not by much. Where should i go from here? I have a 4.0L I6 with the AX-15 tranny.

Hey guys, thanks for the help, but it ended up being a misplaced vaccume line. The one that goes from the MAP sensor to the TB was in a wrong hole. As soon as i put it in the right hole it went back to idling smoothly. Thank god it wasn't something huge lol.

Yea, the engine was running perfectly before the swap. After i put the 5.0L Injectors in it ran like crap. I swaped the old stock injectors back in (with new 0-rings) and it still runs like crap. Which sensor do i check for the air/fuel ratio and how do i check it?

Hey guys, once again i have another problem with the comanche. The other day i put some new 5.0L Mustang Injectors in the comanche hoping to improve the performance. After i installed the injectors and put everything back together i started it up. It immediately started running rough as if i had just put a cam in. I ran it for a while like this thinking it would solve the problem but it didn't. The whole time the truck ran really rich and would stall at stop lights/ signs. Since it didn't solve itself i switched back to the stock injectors thinking that would work, but it once again didn't work. It runs a little better but the idle is still rough and it feels/ sounds like its running on 5 out of 6 cylinders. I check the connections on the injectors, the spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and distributor and there didn't seem to be any problem with any of them. I have a 1987 Comanche with the 4.0L I6. Any ideas?

alright thanks guys. i ended up taking the light bulb out for now. ill check out that switch tomorrow. hahaha. you know i should have tried to lol, but those damn m.p.'s are pretty strict. i don't think it wouldve worked. i had him laughing when i said i didnt think i was an escaped convict tho lol.

Hey guys. So the police officer last night informed me that my reverse lights were on while i was driving and that it was a $200 fine. Its a good thing i was able to get out of it, but how do i fix that before i get pulled over again? I'm guessing it might have something to do with my tranny/ t-case? I have the ax-15/ np231 combo.

haha yea. i was thinking that the quality would suck too. I'm with cracker though. cheap stuff fits into my budget really well. hopefully their stuff holds up.

Have you guys ever heard/ bought parts from these guys? Most of the parts are pretty cheap compared to other places. What do you guys think? http://www.rukindustries.com/store/inde ... cc5069924d

Hey guys. Guess what?! Another problem! who would've guessed it haha. So this time its a battery/ starting issue. When ever i start it these days it turns over REALLY, REALLY slow. At first i thought it was a bad alternator (mine squeaks a lot which has led to my trucks permanent nickname: Mr. Squeakers. :ack:), but i took it out and had it checked at the local auto-zone and they said it was good. So then i checked the battery, but they said it was 100% charged and it was fine. Here's where it gets weird. While I'm driving the voltmeter fluctuates a lot and its mostly in the low range and even in the red sometimes. Also, today after a 45 minute drive to play paintball i turned off my truck and then turned it back on and it started up fine. After i played i drove the same route back home and stopped at a gas station, filled up, and tried to start my truck and it wouldn't even turn over. I'm thinking this whole thing is related to each other. I was going to look at the wiring first thing tomorrow, but what do you guys think?

also you could check out the MAP sensor.

I might be wrong, but it could possibly be the CPS sensor (located on the top of the transmission). They're known for going out in our jeeps. Does it ever just die randomly while you're driving down the road?

Yea. i think the jb conversions one looks the best. thanks! um. i was driving to pismo state beach for some wheeling in the dunes and on the way down my tc went out. i could only move while in 4low.

Hey guys. I'm looking at rebuild kits right now. There are a bunch out there on the interweb and i was hoping you guys could help me decide. I was originally looking at JB conversion's kit ( http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/prod ... index.html ) and they say that their kit is superior to their competitors, but they are a bit pricey... Should i go with them or buy from some place like 4wd.com or fourwheelparts.com or eastcoastgearsupply.com etc. etc. Thanks for the help guys! :cheers:

Hey guys. I've been looking around for this thing for a loooooong time so I'm guessing someone else in the future will need it too so here you go. Good Luck! NP231 Transfercase Service Manual. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... _NP231.pdf

haha ok guys. thanks. since it is his truck i had a feeling that we were gonna rebuild it anyways. so I'm not tooooo disappointed haha. thanks for the good luck wish.

Hey guys. I'm having a discussion with my dad on whether or not a T-Case from pick n pul($60)l is a reliable part to buy? I think it would last for a while, but my dad thinks we should rebuild it($150) now so that it will last longer than the case from pnp. My dad thinks that more money spent now willl be better than going to pnp and buying a used Tcase. keep in mind that i am a college student and i have very little money to work with. thanks guys! (side with me! :bowdown: haha)

ooo. damn. i hate those expensive products. they should give us comanche owners a discount haha.

ah ok. thats most likely the problem. i was looking around at NP231s and i was wondering if there was a rebuild kit to change it to the rubicon's 4:1 gear ratio? would the gears fit in a non-4:1 ratio? (i don't even know my current gears?)

haha yea. my beearings are all screwed up. i forgot to take the rear driveshaft off for the tow back home (100+ miles :grrrr: ) so i think some of the bearings went to crap as it was being towed. oh well. i think i'm either going to go to the local pick n pull($60) or rebuild it($150). I like the $60 option waaaay more, but its proving to be pretty hard to find a 23 spline TC. grrr.

haha yea. the TC came from my truck. I'm thinking that one of the po's may have rebuilt both the tranny and the tc and put 23 spline shafts in it. i don't know why someone would do that but ok. here are the pics you guys asked for... The input shaft on the NP231 The Transfer Case The Tranny (Peugeot. I'm 99% sure it is one...)

it'll make it completely un-returnable if it doesn't work, but you could drill a new hole to accept the offset bolt?

Hey guys! hope your fathers day is going great. anyways, I've posted a couple times since, but I'm having trouble with my transfer case. I'm supposed to have a peugeot (BA10-5) transmission and a NP-231 transfercase on my 1987 Comanche. Here's where it gets weird. I've counted the splines on the input shaft time and time again and it always come out to being 23 splines :???: ? I know that the 231 is supposed to have 21 splines to compliment the tranny. I did some research to figure out what was going on and i came to this: http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np ... _gears.htm About half way down the page there is a diagram showing the difference between the 21 spline TC and the 23 spline TC. It says that the 23 spline NP231 is supposed to have a long input shaft of 2.1", but my input shaft is more close to 1.2" than 2.1" :huh???: ? So I'm coming to you guys now. I'm completely confused. HELP PLEASE!!! :bowdown:

sweet man. thanks! :cheers: ill give it a try in the morning.

So i'm trying to take off the transfercase and ive run into a problem. The 2 nuts on the top that connect the T-Case and the tranny together a becoming two big p.i.t.a's :fs1: . Do you guys have any tips on removing them? Thanks!