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1992/1999 Mj Project


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Thanks guys :D

 

I hope to get the truck to the body shop before my September wedding. That means the entire dash assembly needs to be fitted, installed, then removed along with some of the firewall sheet metal from the XJ. I am trying to minimize the number of holes being punched through a good paint job, hopefully reducing the possibility of rust.

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  • 4 weeks later...

No progress that is real exciting. I have been carefully been pulling out the dash from the donor so I can access the firewall sheet metal that needs cut out. What was fitted in the truck was a spare dash I picked up some time ago. I have also been researching abrasive blasting methods to clean up the frame so it can be treated with POR15. Also been in contact with the body shop so they can get ready for the rolling chassis.

 

I did get some of the sheet metal set on the front end for fitting. The driver side fender apparently a reproduction piece and does not fit nearly as well as the OEM passenger fender.

 

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  • 2 months later...

November Update

- I have removed the passenger side upper 'frame' rail and floor board to expose the inner 'frame'. Next up is the driver side, but a few hidden spot welds have kept it from coming off easily. Once those are free and clear I will finish getting the dash fitted, then strip it back down. By that time the truck will finally go get soda blasted followed by a chassis coat of POR15.

 

AND... temptation bit me in the butt. Wife said it was OK so I picked up this D44 front axle out of a 2005 Rubicon with 17K miles last weekend. Some of the aftermarket goodies will be stripped off and stuck in my rubi, while the stock rubi parts will go into the MJ axle. It has the 15" Vanco Big Brake kit (EBC Green Pads), ORO U-Turn steering with 7075 Aluminum Tie Rod (new TRE's), RE Track Bar, RockCrusher Diff Cover, 4:10 Gears, Alloy USA Axle shafts and Alloy USA axle seals. Has a busted front locker (typical for the rub lockers when loaded up). Figure $2500 in after market parts   :brows:

 

 

The front Rubi D44 going into the MJ will contain:

- 4.10s

- Rockcrusher Diff cover

- Vanco Brakes

- RE Trackbar

- Replacement locker

- Axle lock switch with safety lockout in the cab to operate the front locker compressor

 

I will need to get the rear MJ D44 overhauled and geared to 4.10, basic locker included and disk brakes installed.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Good job buddy looks good keep us posted on new updates! jamminz.gif

Thanks man. I am real anxious to get the truck back on the road, but I just can't rush it. The darn floors are taking much longer than I had expected to take out, postponing the soda blasting and getting the chassis coated with POR15 prior to taking it to the body shop. I am still aiming for it to end up at the body shop around the first of the year.

 

Soon enough :brows:

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  • 2 weeks later...
Good job buddy looks good keep us posted on new updates! jamminz.gif
LOOKS GOOD! :thumbsup:

Thanks jamminz.gif

 

December 12 Update:

Progress has been really slow and the cold weather has set in. However, I managed to make some forward progress on the truck.

 

The floors had me really bogged down. (I don't do metal work) They need replaced and I did not want to do a patch job around the frame rail, so I spent a fair amount of time locating, drilling and popping the spot welds along the upper frame support. This was done in preparation for the sand blaster, so the inside frame rails can be treated with POR15. It took a long time, but they came off straight with minimal deformation:

 

To my delight, the inner frame is very solid with only minimal surface rust along the passenger side:

 

I also removed the front sheet metal, doors, and dash from the MJ (again). After spending a few hours with the XJs steering column sub frame, I think I have come up with a solution to use the factory MJ parking brake pedal assembly with relocated release. (similar to what Shelbyluv did) I will be using a bench seat so the typical XJ parking brake handle won't work for my application. I will also be using the XJ steering column brace that is spot welded to the cowl, for proper fit and structure.

 

Here you can see the TCU (trans control unit) bracket and markings on the firewall where it will need to be mounted:

 

After a lot of careful measuring and comparing, it seem the HO firewall needs fewer modifications to it than the Renix era firewalls need when doing this swap. Two holes need welded shut, two need modified (steering shaft/engine harness grommet), and one needs added (above the blower motor).

 

Also got the AC/Heater box pulled from the XJ along with the engine harness and other under hood components.

 

Hopefully I can get the final fitment of the dash done in a few weeks so I won't have to drill any more holes in the firewall after the body shop gets it. :wavey:

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  • 2 weeks later...
why are you moving the fire wall??

I am not 'moving' the firewall. I am cutting patch panels and removing brackets from the XJ firewall and placing them on the MJ so the 99 XJ dash and accessories will bolt/plug in.

 

Random parties and being out of town for the Christmas holiday put a halt on progress :ack: Working on getting a blaster rented for this New Years weekend.

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Last update of 2010 I suppose :ack: I do apologize for the terrible cell phone pictures :chillin:

 

Today I pulled the heater box from the XJ and got it mounted in the MJ. This required drilling one hole to the right side of the blower motor. I also noticed the firewall is different between the XJ and MJ where the heater core and AC lines go through. Looks like another patch that will need to be cut and welded.

 

I also removed the steering column brace from the XJ firewall. I temporarily mounted it and the TCU bracket using a few sheet metal screws while I get everything fitted.

 

I also modified the aluminum steering column/brake support bracket so it would fit around the MJ parking brake studs. The parking brake pedal assembly should bolt up with minimal modifications. Then I will need to figure out the release, without cutting the XJ dash.

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I will be running a Dakota split bench so the hand brake is not really a viable option. I did think about cutting it down and moving it forward on the transmission tunnel, but don't feel that would be very clean.

 

You are right, I have never seen anybody address or corerect the heater box hole. I will definitely be correcting it. It seems that all Jeeps have a cold draft that sneaks in on the passenger side that makes the passengers feet cold. If I build it and it is drafty, my wife will complain and I will end up doing some patch work repair.

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January 1, 2011

After a bit more measuring and compounding ideas, I will be following the masses and leaving the square'ish' heater/AC box opening alone. To fill the gap at the bottom edge I will use an over sized single piece of super dense foam (material to be determined later) around the heater core and AC lines backed with some sort of barrier.

 

I did some more test fitting and metal work today.

 

99 XJ brake booster and pedal assembly bolted in place:

(booster clears the lip in front of the cowl but needs clearance cut like the XJ)

 

MJ parking brake pedal assembly in place with 99 XJ sub-frame:

 

Now that all components affected by the sub-frame have found their spots it is time to drill/mount the left hand side of the sub-frame mount. I held off on doing this simply because I wanted wiggle room. Truth-be-told, the sub-frame moved less than 1/8" since I first held it in place.

 

Cut the driver side firewall out of the XJ. I decided to take it out as one piece so the steering shaft hole is in exactly the right spot as well as the engine harness grommet hole. How these get attached will be up to the body shop guy since he will be welding them in after I mark their locations.

(saved the inner fender well because it is good and straight, good for somebody that is fixing a wiped out XJ)

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  • 2 weeks later...

January 10

Minor interior update

 

I finally got the Steering Column/Brake pedal brace finally bolted through the A pillar cab side, less the upper right bolt. The back side of the mounting hole is in an open space between panels on the back side. Will get a stud welded in place for the missing mount. In addition the MJ parking brake mechanism is mounted and moved freely in conjunction with the aluminum brace:

 

 

Here is a reference picture for anybody pondering this swap:

The green locations are the mounting holes for the '97+ steering column/brake pedal brace.

I gained access to the lower right hole via the hole were the door wires go through, utilizing a wire to hold the bolt and prevent it from falling. This bolt will be welded on the inside to prevent it from turning and falling between the cab body panels. The upper left is the mount I have not yet finished. The cowl seam comes down and prevents access as it sits. Hopefully a stud and be welded on the inside of the cab to support.

 

The yellow locations are the factory MJ parking brake mounts

The two mounts on the right are still being used while the third on the left has been relocated. I used a button head bolt through the relocated parking brake bracket to clear the locking mechanism, secured with a nut against the bracket, then through the lower left (green) XJ aluminum bracket and hole. You can see the 2nd nut on the button head bolt shared with the aluminum brace to hold the unit in place.

 

Another reference shot from the inside firewall. You can cearly see the factory MJ dash with a paper template of the XJ dash indicating how different the steering shaft holes are.

 

Fusebox is also mounted on the passenger a pillar/kick panel.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The truck saw the light of day for the first time in over a year today. It was quite exciting to just move it around, after filling a flattened tire.

 

BTW- I really like how it sits with no weight. From my calculations, this would be a 2-3" lift.

 

Started to blast with my new Harbor Freight 20lb blaster and Black Diamond media from Tractor Supply. This is how it started:

 

It took awhile to get the blaster setup and working correctly. Used up the two bags of media and almost got the rear frame rails cleaned up. The undercoating was tough/slow going, but the Black Diamond media cut through it with two passes. I need to get more of the media and finish up the rear frame rails, under the cab and engine bay.

 

The finish:

 

This was my first pass, with the smallest nozzle so it is a little splotchy:

 

The finish should react well with the POR15 3-step paint process. It is a very lightly etched surface that is smooth to the touch.

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looking good :thumbsup: thoes sand blasters are very nice to have. the media by itself isnt too awful expensive but my neightbor looked around and got sum and an industrial store that had been used once and was already sifted for $5 a 40lb (i think 40lb maybe only 20) bag.

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looking good :thumbsup: thoes sand blasters are very nice to have. the media by itself isnt too awful expensive but my neightbor looked around and got sum and an industrial store that had been used once and was already sifted for $5 a 40lb (i think 40lb maybe only 20) bag.

Thank you! :wrench:

 

This is the first blaster I have ever used or owned. It is pretty neat and works well for $60. The media I am using from Tractor Supply is only $8 for a 50lb bag. I will be recycling and reusing the media this weekend. I expect to get at least 2 uses out of it. There are some commercial outfits that sell blast media in bulk around KC, but according to the sales reps, they don't like to sell to individuals.

 

For anybody thinking about buying or using a blaster, be sure to get a moisture filter. Even in the dead of winter, the filter captured a 1/2 cup of water in 4 hours.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Made some more progress on the frame.

 

This was in the way, so I removed it:

 

Some of the post-blasting-pre-update pics:

 

This is the worst of it. Located above the rear bumpstop location.

 

After some blasting, the under carriage:

(I need to degrease the rest of it. I burned through A LOT of media trying to blast the 1/4" layer of grease over the under coating)

 

Just how good is that cab corner... blasted until the sheet metal quit disappearing.

 

Cleaned up spring hanger:

 

Progress was quickly halted when a rain shower dampened the used media while I was in town at lunch. Just turned the media to mud. I was able to reuse some of the media I previously collected and bagged. A simple 6" strainer from the Walmart kitchen section was used to filter the used media. Worked perfect!

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Since I have been getting to know every square millimeter of this truck, I have been noticing some rather bizarre things.... primarily the front suspension:

 

Passenger coil spring is busted... No wonder this truck never had the driver side lean:

Bowed out to the Knuckle:

 

Driver Bumpstop is tweaked... almost rubbing the coil:

 

These issues, along with the upper control arm that is smashed on the TOP, lead me to believe this truck has been air born at some point in its life.

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