My 9 Year Build So Far.......

[500 MJ]

Loving the pics of new & old!

 

What took you so long to put up pics?

[jpnjim]

What took you so long to put up pics?

 

Lazy, slow, didn't have a Photobucket account till last year.

+ no one likes to take wheeling pics anymore (have plenty of 35mm pics from 10-15 years ago).

[jpnjim]

Added a couple more pics for another thread:

Interior shot, w/2001 seats, console & doors installed (9/22/05),

drives set back 2-3" from stock 2001 position)

 

[Drahcir495]

needs to be all one color to not look like a circus Jeep.

I kind of like the circus jeep look. Really looking good. I love the roll bar/rack on your old red MJ. A lot of cool progress pics - keep it up!

 

This looks a lot like my topper, but in a short box version. Any other shots of the topper?

[jpnjim]

This looks a lot like my topper, but in a short box version. Any other shots of the topper?

 

Maybe somewhere, but it's not an MJ topper, and didn't really fit.

It's hard to tell in that pic, but it's too long for the bed.

It was a better fit on the longbed MJ I had it on before (though it was about 4" too short, I bolted in a piece of diamondplate between the topper & the cab to fill the place).

 

 

 

I never found out what the topper really fit, but when I was done with it, I put it in front of the house, with a sign that said "FREE",

and it was gone within the hour. :D

[jpnjim]

Found a couple of pics:

 

I guess it was a little closer to the right length than I remember.

I think I split the difference when I put it on the trailer (~1.5" gap ft & back).

[Drahcir495]

That looks like it could be mine, with the exception of the single lock. Somebody got a deal on that. Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures :thumbsup: - Rich

[reson46]

Very cool truck and nice work. You planning on using the doubler with the Atlas?

 

Willy

[603Redneck]

you have any problems with the stock axles yet? I'm only running 34" LTB's and ive blown 2 D35's and broke the upper control arms completely off the D30. put an 8.8 in the rear and I'm looking for a cheap 44 for the front that i can build. you live in boston? i live in epping nh, right down the rd from new england dragway. we should get the mj's togther and show people up!

[offroader461]

Hes not running a stock rear axle :clapping:

[jpnjim]

Very cool truck and nice work. You planning on using the doubler with the Atlas?

 

Willy

 

Thanks.

I thought about running both (especially since I'm not gonna like the ft driveshaft angle, with just the Atlas if I can get it clocked flat) but I doubt I will.

 

 

 

 

you have any problems with the stock axles yet? I'm only running 34" LTB's and ive blown 2 D35's and broke the upper control arms completely off the D30. put an 8.8 in the rear and I'm looking for a cheap 44 for the front that i can build. you live in boston? i live in epping nh, right down the rd from new england dragway. we should get the mj's togther and show people up!

 

:cheers:

I'm just North of Boston (not as North as you tho :D ).

I went through 2, or 3 D35's back when I was running 31" TSL's & 31" (old style) Goodyear MT's.

On 35's, I tore a ft (lower) control arm bracket off on a Monday morning (in downdown Boston) after running the waterfalls @ The Beacon that weekend. :doh:

Ended up ratchet strapping the axle to the ft bumper to drive it back home.

 

I found this D60 rear back when no one was really looking for them (1969 Hemi-Charger automotive D60).

Paid $495 in the early 1990's :banana: :

5 on 4.5" wheel patturn, 4.56's, 2-piece Powerlock, 1.5" 23spline shafts (same size as early D70's) & 2.5"x11" drums.

 

Since then I went to a Strange (full) spool & Moser 35sp axles.

Daily driving on that got old after a year, or so, and I went with a full Detroit.

 

Except for that control arm issue, the D30 has held up to wheeling on the 31's above, 33" Grabber MT's, 35" Grabber MT's & after swapping in a lockright, 33" TSL's.

When I made the jump to Q/78's, I got Alloy USA shafts, but it's been mostly just driveway wheeling with those. :(

 

Hopefully I'll get beyond the driveway wheeling this summer, but it still has a way to go.

[jpnjim]

Atlas?

 

Willy,

How did your Atlas instal come out in your XJ?

How flat did you clock it, and how happy are you with the amount of droop you get out of your ft driveshaft?

 

I had mocked up a flipped D300 a while back, and you end up with a similar ft shaft length to what the Atlas will give me.

Using a stock style double cardan joint (Grand Waggy shaft was a perfect fit), with the D300 clocked flat, the driveshaft was my droop limiting factor.

Way before the RS9009 length shocks topped out.

 

I figure I'll split the difference with the Atlas, and not go completely flat.

I can modify the double cardan to get a few more degree's, but ultimately, I think I'll need a limiting strap on that side, unless I want to run a modified Toyota CV joint, or similar.

 

What did you do, and how much did you cut the floor to fit your Atlas.

Thanks

Jimmy.

[cmelo]

Nice build, I think I saw some pics on pirate awhile back. Didn't realize you were so close to me. I live in the south shore and I'm starting to get into the wheeling scene. You in any clubs or anything, NAXJA has a big following around here too.

[reson46]

Atlas?

 

Willy,

How did your Atlas instal come out in your XJ?

How flat did you clock it, and how happy are you with the amount of droop you get out of your ft driveshaft?

 

I had mocked up a flipped D300 a while back, and you end up with a similar ft shaft length to what the Atlas will give me.

Using a stock style double cardan joint (Grand Waggy shaft was a perfect fit), with the D300 clocked flat, the driveshaft was my droop limiting factor.

Way before the RS9009 length shocks topped out.

 

I figure I'll split the difference with the Atlas, and not go completely flat.

I can modify the double cardan to get a few more degree's, but ultimately, I think I'll need a limiting strap on that side, unless I want to run a modified Toyota CV joint, or similar.

 

What did you do, and how much did you cut the floor to fit your Atlas.

Thanks

Jimmy.

 

I didn't have any problems with my Atlas install. But, I didn't clock it completely flat. I clocked it as far as I could without interfering with the floor. Even like this it still didn't hang as low as the stock NP 231.

 

 

I never had any problems with the front driveshaft. The Atlas only shortens it a couple of inches compared to an NP 231. Mine's behind an AW4 too, so if you have a manual that may shorten your front shaft more than mine.

 

If you are still building the drivetrain I would definitely recommend you use the doubler with the Atlas since you have it. Especially with the 5.0 Atlas. More gear choices are never bad. I have the 4.3 Atlas and there are occasions when I would like both lower and higher gearing. I built my wife's MJ with a doubler and it is very nice. I'm also building a Scout with a doubler and a 4.3 Atlas. I think that will give me just about all the gear choices I could want - 2.7, 4.3, and 11.7.

 

Willy

[Kittrell]

Holy crap Jim, I can't believe you are still workin' on this thing! I remember back in '03 when you where gonna swap the 01 parts onto it. Back then it was unheard of, I think it had only ever been done once before.

[jpnjim]

Nice build, I think I saw some pics on pirate awhile back. Didn't realize you were so close to me. I live in the south shore and I'm starting to get into the wheeling scene. You in any clubs or anything, NAXJA has a big following around here too.

 

Yeah, I didn't post many pics there, I'm surprised you saw it.

I've wheeled with Baystate Jeepers, and Patriot Jeepers.

Both good clubs, low key, family style wheeling.

BS is geared towards Jeeps from stock to 35" tires, PJ stock to 33's.

 

More hardcore than that would be New England.

There's a ton more clubs than that, but those are the ones I'm most familiar with.

 

I'm hoping to get some runs in with Baystate this year, but we'll see how far along I get with the MJ.

 

 

 

 

Holy crap Jim, I can't believe you are still workin' on this thing! I remember back in '03 when you where gonna swap the 01 parts onto it. Back then it was unheard of, I think it had only ever been done once before.

 

Yeah, I bought this MJ in June 03, bought the rolled 01' XJ in August 03',

 

came up with a build plan, got a ton done....

 

then had a son on June 04. :thumbsup:

 

Priorities changed, and it's been on the back burner since. :(

I never really stopped working on it, but things don't happen as fast anymore.

[jpnjim]

I didn't have any problems with my Atlas install. But, I didn't clock it completely flat. I clocked it as far as I could without interfering with the floor. Even like this it still didn't hang as low as the stock NP 231.

 

 

I never had any problems with the front driveshaft. The Atlas only shortens it a couple of inches compared to an NP 231. Mine's behind an AW4 too, so if you have a manual that may shorten your front shaft more than mine.

 

If you are still building the drivetrain I would definitely recommend you use the doubler with the Atlas since you have it. Especially with the 5.0 Atlas. More gear choices are never bad. I have the 4.3 Atlas and there are occasions when I would like both lower and higher gearing. I built my wife's MJ with a doubler and it is very nice. I'm also building a Scout with a doubler and a 4.3 Atlas. I think that will give me just about all the gear choices I could want - 2.7, 4.3, and 11.7.

 

Willy

 

Thanks! :cheers:

 

This was helpful,

I still haven't done the swap yet (waiting till after surgery at the end of the month).

I'm still leary of doing the doubler + Atlas, partly because of the weight hanging so far out, and partly because I'd like to get away from the 231's cast aluminum case.

I'd probably use a Klune if I had one. :D :banana:

 

I would like to keep the 2.73 option tho, if only for slippery hills, where a taller reverse would be better, if/when i get into trouble

(quickly shifting from 3rd/5:1 low, to reverse/5:1 low in case of a sticky situation = a huge change in gearing).

 

I'll post up pics whenever I get to the swap.

[jpnjim]

I did a couple more little jobs to the MJ.

 

I tried one of those $10 Eldelbrock filters, very nice filter, but it wouldn't fit in the position close to the firewall, I have the K&N now.

 

Swapped in the ft Edelbrock res style shocks:

 

 

only place I saw to tuck the resi:

 

 

and swapped the RE HD track bar bracket for a T&T bracket (gained 2.75" of track bar to dif cover clearance):

 

T&T bracket is almost a mirror image of the RE's

 

 

 

Had to drill out the RE joint to the next size (not sure if I was supposed to do this, but the T&T bolt is way beefier, and I wanted to use it):

 

after that it was a great fit:

 

 

I was able to pull the RE track bar forward to fit in the bracket:

but it wasn't the right solution, so I took a few degree's out of the last bend (next to the joint), and it worked, without misaligning the lower bushing to make it fit.

 

Using the T&T bar probably would've been a better choice, but I already had the RE bar, so that's what I used.

 

and it looks like the tie rod to track bar clearance will still be OK.

The MJ's still a driveway decoration for now, so YMMV if you try the swap.

[reson46]

Thanks! :cheers:

 

This was helpful,

I still haven't done the swap yet (waiting till after surgery at the end of the month).

I'm still leary of doing the doubler + Atlas, partly because of the weight hanging so far out, and partly because I'd like to get away from the 231's cast aluminum case.

I'd probably use a Klune if I had one. :D :banana:

 

I would like to keep the 2.73 option tho, if only for slippery hills, where a taller reverse would be better, if/when i get into trouble

(quickly shifting from 3rd/5:1 low, to reverse/5:1 low in case of a sticky situation = a huge change in gearing).

 

I'll post up pics whenever I get to the swap.

 

All that weight was a big concern for me too. Plus all the extra leverage way back there. On the MJ I built an extra mount that attached to the doubler adapter plate. There are several pics on page 2 of my build thread here of the mount.

 

I plan on doing something similar for my Scout. But, I'll build a sub-frame that hard mounts to the transmission and transfer cases, then mount the bushings where the sub-frame attaches to the frame. That will allow the entire drivetrain to rotate as one with the motor and transmission mounts in line from front to back. Hopefully I was able to explain that coherently. :hmm: I may even add a mount to the rear of the Atlas similar to what Roark Fabworks makes.

 

Willy

[reson46]

Are you a rock climber?

 

Good luck on the surgery. :thumbsup:

 

Willy

[jpnjim]

 

All that weight was a big concern for me too. Plus all the extra leverage way back there. On the MJ I built an extra mount that attached to the doubler adapter plate. There are several pics on page 2 of my build thread here of the mount.

 

I plan on doing something similar for my Scout. But, I'll build a sub-frame that hard mounts to the transmission and transfer cases, then mount the bushings where the sub-frame attaches to the frame. That will allow the entire drivetrain to rotate as one with the motor and transmission mounts in line from front to back. Hopefully I was able to explain that coherently. :hmm: I may even add a mount to the rear of the Atlas similar to what Roark Fabworks makes.

 

Willy

 

I understand what you mean.

I left a plate hanging out behind the back of my current tranny mount (hard mounted to tranny & isolated from X-member) & may end up getting one of those rear Atlas mounts, and tie it directly into that plate.

 

Not exactly what you plan to do, but I've seen the same thing done, with individual bushings mounted to each frame rail, like you explained.

 

 

Are you a rock climber?

 

Good luck on the surgery. :thumbsup:

 

Willy

 

Thanks. :cheers:

 

Rock climbing (like hand to hand), or rock crawling, in the Jeep?

 

I'm 40 years old, 240 lbs, and no longer in the best shape of my life. :ack:

I've tried those mechanical rock walls, where you never get more than 4' off the ground, but that's about it. :yes:

 

As far as the Jeep goes, I like playing on rocks, but there's not much 'just rock' wheeling in New England.

 

We have rocks & mud, & waterfalls & mud (sometimes with real water ;) ).

You can find stairsteps, w/o mud here, but for the most part, unless it's man made, you'll have to deal with slop atleast some of the time.

[reson46]

Rock climbing (like hand to hand), or rock crawling, in the Jeep?

 

I was referring to by hand. Those looked like climbing shoes in your pictures. :thumbsup:

 

Willy

[88mjmanche]

i can't belive that the dana 30 has not broken it self yet with the 37 inch tires :shake:

[jpnjim]

i can't belive that the dana 30 has not broken it self yet with the 37 inch tires :shake:

 

When you're just driving around the block, and taking measurements D30's hold up great to 37s!

 

 

In the text I said the 37's were just for 'driveway pics' (fenders were cut for 33" TSL's, and the 37's stuffed in there for a quick whirl around the block).

 

Before anyone else just skimming pictures picks up on this, let me fully disclose....

 

I didn't really stretch this MJ out to a 6 door either. (hangs head in shame).

 

Don't know how I thought I could get away with that one. ;)

[jpnjim]

If the 37" comment was about the (non-Bogger) front TSL's in the other pics,

those are Q/78's (35.5"x11").

 

Pretty much the limit (IMO) for a 30 with alloy shafts.

 

 

I've had great luck with this HP D30, wheeling generic 33x12.5 & 35x12.5 MT's. (with 4.56's & stock 2-piece 297 shafts) for years.

 

When I made the jump to 33x12.5 TSL's (33.5"x11.5") & a lockright, I swapped in stock 1 piece 297 shafts, and the good luck continued.

Because of all the down time, the Q/78's haven't seen much dirt, but alloy shafts went in with that jump in size.

 

The 1/2 worn 37" Boggers were for play time on the rear only, with the Q's up front.

(At 36.25" the Boggers = 2% taller than 35.5" Q's, no big deal on the loose trails here).

 

D60/full detroit/35sp Moser's = more than up to 37's, so :dunno:

 

 

FWIW, I wouldn't mind having 'more' front axle (especially once I change the T-case),

but running 35/36's in a unibody Jeep is a fine line.

Especially when you DON'T want to go full width.

(and any ft axle change is most likely gonna mean replacing my 60's rear shafts & brakes, since the small Mopar style flanges won't take a 5.5" wheel patturn)