need help with actuating dana 30

[BREEZE1]

After converting most of my jeep over to 4wd I was under the impression that the only way for me to actuate the front Dana 30 was to get one of those cable kits. I was going to ask if there is a way to do this using my existing vacume system. Sorry this seems like a dumb question I was just going to see if there is a quick fix instead of dishing out $190 for a cable. :ack:

[BLHTAZ]

Why don't you just put it in the locked postion and keep it there. On page 3 of this thread is a real easy way to do it... CLICK HERE.

 

Or you can find a write up on converting to the one piece shaft and not have the actuator at all. :thumbsup:

 

You can build your own actuator cable out of a bicycle cable if you want to get creative :yes:

[BREEZE1]

That seems like a nice easy fix, but will that cause the tires to wear any faster? It’s too early for me to think straight…

[LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW]

That seems like a nice easy fix, but will that cause the tires to wear any faster? It’s too early for me to think straight…

No. I've done it to all my CAD D30's without issues. It'll just make your front d-shaft spin while driving down the road (all '91+ XJ's and pre '91 with the 242TC do this anyways).

[BLHTAZ]

That seems like a nice easy fix, but will that cause the tires to wear any faster? It’s too early for me to think straight…

No. I've done it to all my CAD D30's without issues. It'll just make your front d-shaft spin while driving down the road (all '91+ XJ's and pre '91 with the 242TC do this anyways).

Correct...

 

The CAD axle was just a mistake. They rectified it by going back to a one piece design after just a few years as Adam stated.

[BREEZE1]

KOOL :thumbsup:

[Geonovast]

I can really only think of two advantages to having a selectable CAD.

1. Gives you a 2lo option, which would be good if you have to, say, pull a 1984 Chevy Winnebago van up onto a trailer and you're sitting on concrete, but you do it without that because the 4wd tranny isn't in and I'm very proud of my 3.07 D35 for not breaking)

2. Gives you a selectable locker in the front with just welding.

[oldrusty]

you couls also actuate it with some vacume line and a valve run from a source on the engine. I believe jeepcomj did it on one of his trucks using an air valve out of a big truck. You could also use some sort of small ball valve. Just run a vacume line into the valve then out to the actuator on the axle. When the valve is open vacume is allowed to pass to the actuator giving you 4x4. When the valve is closed you would have 2x4.

[Eagle]

You could also use some sort of small ball valve. Just run a vacume line into the valve then out to the actuator on the axle. When the valve is open vacume is allowed to pass to the actuator giving you 4x4. When the valve is closed you would have 2x4.

Not quite that simple. The CAD needs vacuum to slide it either way.

 

The old Grand Wagoneers used a vacuum switch to lock the full-time 4WD. I've seen some very nice conversions using that to control the CAD. For most people and most purposes, though, the simplest and cheapest approach is to engage it and shim it to stay that way.

[oldrusty]

my bad I was thinking after I posted that that there are 2 lines leading into the cad. Figured it probably wasnt as simple as i made it sound.

[Bounty Hunter]

I've used the Quadratrac vacuum switch that Eagle mentioned, worked real slick to engage and disengage the disconnect. The 'swoosh' sound in the cab was a bonus.

 

If you want the disco engaged on the cheap and easy, just remove the disco from the axle, engage the collar over both axleshafts, and reinstall the disco upside down. Holds the axle engaged just fine.

 

If you want to run vacuum, you can do it from the same vacuum switch on the tranny that the 4wd trucks use. It has 4 ports, 1 is vacuum from manifold, 2 to the front axle, and the 3rd is a vent.

[Pete M]

2. Gives you a selectable locker in the front with just welding.

 

 

Which I don't suggest since the front U-joints are just little 260s. ;)

[Car RamRod]

I made a cable actuated setup using a throttle cable and a few misc. items and never looked back. I'd suggest this route for a dd.

[JeepcoMJ]

I used a vacuum toggle switch from a semi tractor that I got at work, some plastic flexible line, some rubber fittings, and a spare vacuum canister to do my vacuum switch. it works great, but you can only engage it at low speeds or it binds up...it gets HEAVY vacuum.

just tee it into the vacuum canister supply, and add a second vac. cannister (if you want...it's not necessary), supply to switch, supply two hoses to disconnect and one vent hose to disconnect)

I've since relocated it to between the center armrest and the shifter as my transmission temp gauge is now in that location from the motor swap.

 

 

 

a factory selec-trac switch from a mid 80's xj or mj works great too.

 

basically any vacuum switch with a vacuum in, switch of some sort, and two vacuum outputs will do wonders. (such as the one below...which is normally located in the small ash tray spot behind the shifter on the center console)