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SOA shocks


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So the plate with the shock mount sits directly on (under) the original perches and you're using 4 regular (grade 8?) bolts, right?

The factory spring plate I flipped and put it "inside" the shock mount plate for added strength, than yes used 4 bolts/washer/locking nuts on the top side with the new spring plate in the kit. This also helps keep the "lip" on the shock mount plate from really being a lip as the factory spring plate has a big "u-bend" for lack of better terms in it.

 

So I guess it goes like this;

 

Motion Spring Plate

Motion SOA Spring Perch

Axle Tube

Factory Spring Perch (welded to axle)

Factory Shock Mount Plate

Factory Spring Plate

 

 

It's snowy out, but if you want/need more pics Marcel shoot me a PM and I'll be happy to snap a few for ya.

 

Edit: Found an old pic when I first set it up. Only thing you can't see if the factory spring plate under the factory shock mount plate.

 

100_1381.jpg

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I think I got it now. I will probably weld new perches on, but keep the old ones on the axle as well. Then run square U-bolts over the spring through the shock mount plate and original spring plate, trimming off any excess U-bolt length almost flush with the nut since they will be pointy end down.

 

Final functionality should be the same as your set up, just implemented a bit differently.

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I guess you *could*. I personally wouldn't trust it, though. When it comes to suspension and keeping my rear axle where it belongs (underneath the car and preferably running side to side) I don't like to take chances. That includes a (mostly) flat item being held tight against a round tube with the same bolts that hold said axle tube to your springs.

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Could I do that w/o the lower spring perch and just have the spring pad ride on the axle tube?

 

If I'm understanding you correctly, then no. Something needs to be welded to the axle tube. Rotation will be inevitable otherwise.

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I will probably use an XJ 8.25 spring perch in the end when I go to long travel shocks. For the time being though. After the install will my current shocks bolt up to the spring pads above the axle temporarily, or do I need to find shorter shocks for them to bolt on? Sorry for so many questions, this is the one point where this SOA thing gets to being a multi day task when I only have one day to do the install and need to get everything together before hand so I can make it a one day install.

 

:cheers:

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It will work temporarily. The springs will still be in the same location relative to the frame, but the shock mount will be above the springs instead of below, so with that set up a shorter shock should be needed. If you don't flex the rear suspension too much and don't carry too much weight you should be okay. If not you would bottom out the shocks, damaging them in the process.

 

And 8.25 spring perches should probably be used only on an 8.25. Those axles have 3" tubes, as opposed to 2.75" for a D44 and 2 5/8" for a D35. The axle tube cut-out in the perch will be the wrong diameter for other axles.

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And 8.25 spring perches should probably be used only on an 8.25. Those axles have 3" tubes, as opposed to 2.75" for a D44 and 2 5/8" for a D35. The axle tube cut-out in the perch will be the wrong diameter for other axles.

 

Those perches are EASILY adjusted to fit any dia axle tube you need. Besides for the UNDER $10 bucks a set, they are a HUGE bargin as well!!! I have put them on three different axles now, no problems making them fit. Couple mins a side with a HS grinder and your ready to weld. :D

 

CW

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It will work temporarily. The springs will still be in the same location relative to the frame, but the shock mount will be above the springs instead of below, so with that set up a shorter shock should be needed. If you don't flex the rear suspension too much and don't carry too much weight you should be okay. If not you would bottom out the shocks, damaging them in the process.

 

And 8.25 spring perches should probably be used only on an 8.25. Those axles have 3" tubes, as opposed to 2.75" for a D44 and 2 5/8" for a D35. The axle tube cut-out in the perch will be the wrong diameter for other axles.

Ill use the original shocks to get it home then, once home I will measure and order some new ones!

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Whenever I have done a SOA ( 4 to date) I have never been able to reuse the shocks that were on the vehicle. Think about it.. You are shortening the distance by at least 4" most shocks only have 5-6" of up travel.. you will see more then 2" of travel just driving up and down the road.

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It will only see the 25 miles from Denver 2 Conifer. Either I need to use the old shocks on there or I will have to find out what shocks I need before I do the swap. I have approx 2.5-3" lift now, so if I get a set of cheap stock shocks will they work for awhile?

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the problem I see is that I have a AAL (or whatever was put in the truck before I got it) lift of ~2-3". So I have no idea what does and doesn't work because of this. Can someone give me the stock height measurements of the truck and possibly the stock shock lengths, so that I can determine what I need. Thank you guys so much for the help so far!!! :cheers:

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Ill use the original shocks to get it home then, once home I will measure and order some new ones!

 

That's what I planned on doing, but didn't happen. Drove home shock-less. It was, in a word, unsettling.....but I made it fine.

 

Not sure about your situation since you already have built in lift (AAL or otherwise), but I can tell ya from experience that stock length shocks with an SOA will not work.

 

Let me look in the morning to see if there's a part # on the shocks I got. I know they are Monroe's, and they fit a Toyota application, but I can get more specific detail when it's light out. IIRC, they were only like $15-$20 each, not bad for a temporary work-around.

 

Jeff

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Lifting the front will cause toe-in. Excessive toe-in will set off death wobble. And toe-in may not be obvious because of the nose of a Comanche being narrower in the front.

 

I would take a tape measure and adjust the sleeve on the drag link to get as close to 0 toe-in as you can measure. Then it should be safe to drive it to an alignment shop.

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You shouldnt have Death wobble from doing a lift install. You might have to much caster, or a toe in/out problem.

 

 

Caster you can measure with a degree finder.. set it on top of your upper Ball joint. should be around 7*. If you have to much or too lil angle it will cause the rig to feel like you are driving on ice.

 

 

The toe in you are going to want a 1/8 to 1/4 toed in. If not you will have driveability and tire wear issue.

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