bhenry_35016 Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 I have a 90 Comanche 2wd automatic with 4.0 engine. Brakes have always been weak on this truck. After only a few minutes in stop and go Traffic the brakes fade out really bad. I'm thinking about upgrading brakes any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Have you checked the setting on the rear proportioning valve to see if your back brakes are even being used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Alright,I'll bite on this one.I know where the r/valve is but on mine the linkage is broke off.replace the rod (try)? Wire it up or down? Or eliminate it out of the system? Otherwise I would,make sure the master cyl is full.Bleed the brakes.inspect linings,go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Alright,I'll bite on this one.I know where the r/valve is but on mine the linkage is broke off.replace the rod (try)?Wire it up or down? Or eliminate it out of the system? Otherwise I would,make sure the master cyl is full.Bleed the brakes.inspect linings,go from there. There have been several threads discussing this. If it's not adjusted properly or not connected ... it's not working properly and there's a good chance you have NO rear brakes. I had one blow out on my '88 in a panic stop. Between that and the fact that adjusting it requires replacing a part that is no longer available ... I don't want it on my truck. My choice, which may not be right for everyone, was to eliminate it. That means I now have full braking power to the rear wheels at all times -- which can cause early rear wheel lockup, and a spinout. I'm willing to accept that because I'm older than dirt, so I grew up with vehicles that had no proportioning valves and all acted like that. To me it's no big deal. To some of you younger guys, it's a factor to consider. For you guys, I recommend eliminating the rear load-sensing valve and using a Wilwood manual adjustable proportioning valve in the line to the rear axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 The short term "fix" is to strap it up so the thick bar is parallel to the ground. That's about the neutral position and if it works at all, that's where it should be for an empty bed.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 The short term "fix" is to strap it up so the thick bar is parallel to the ground. That's about the neutral position and if it works at all, that's where it should be for an empty bed..This is what I have done with mine for now. The brakes are fine, but I will eventually get around to eliminating the valve as Eagle has done / suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 don't forget about the double diaphragm booster swap.. Rebuild the calipers, add new front lines, and get some good pads will make your brakes work pretty darn good.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 don't forget about the double diaphragm booster swap.. . X2 probably the best mod I've done to my MJ so far.... Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhenry_35016 Posted January 15, 2009 Author Share Posted January 15, 2009 Sorry for not being familiar with this. Where is the rear proportioning valve? I looked in my Haynes Automotive Repair book and it said it takes a special tool and to carry it to the dealer for repair! You mentioned that there were several threads on brakes. How do I find these threads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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