going to redo my brakes -----*redone*

[Eagle]

i could use a diagram of the metering block so i know what to take off and where the new line needs to be added

I don't mean to sound rude, but Pete M has posted a PHOTO all marked up in Photoshop that shows exactly which outlet gets used. If I had it bookmarked I'd happily post a link to it, but I don't. So rather than me searching for it, I'll ask you to please do your own research. The information IS here -- about three or four times -- if you're willing to spend a few moments to look for it.

[Eagle]

i could use a diagram of the metering block so i know what to take off and where the new line needs to be added

I don't mean to sound rude, but Pete M has posted a PHOTO all marked up in Photoshop that shows exactly which outlet gets used. If I had it bookmarked I'd happily post a link to it, but I don't. So rather than me searching for it, I'll ask you to please do your own research. The information IS here -- about three or four times -- if you're willing to spend a few moments to look for it.

[james750]

than you that what i needed m friend has the tools to do the job and did the brakes on his el-comino.

 

Doing a brake job requires different tools than rerouting brake lines. A drum brake job requires 3 brake spring tools on our trucks. To reroute the lines you will need a QUALITY double flaring tool, the know how to make a decent double flare (just takes a little practice, but DON'T make your first flare on the truck, chances are, it will be bad), You also need a bender to bend the tubing properly without it cracking or breaking which would be very bad b/c a whole lot of pressure runs through those lines. The reason for the metering valve is that duo servo (self energizing) drums that our trucks have need much less pressure than the front discs need, the metering valve eliminates excess pressure that would otherwise go to the drums, but still maintain pressure in the rest of the system to operate the discs.

That being said I would suggest replacing the metering valve and not bypassing it to obtain normal braking operations. If mine quits working I will bypass it as I much prefer understeer to oversteer problems as understeer is much easier to recover from in icy conditions.

 

Look at other posts in this thread, the info is there, you just need to help yourself a bit and find it in the links provided.

[james750]

than you that what i needed m friend has the tools to do the job and did the brakes on his el-comino.

 

Doing a brake job requires different tools than rerouting brake lines. A drum brake job requires 3 brake spring tools on our trucks. To reroute the lines you will need a QUALITY double flaring tool, the know how to make a decent double flare (just takes a little practice, but DON'T make your first flare on the truck, chances are, it will be bad), You also need a bender to bend the tubing properly without it cracking or breaking which would be very bad b/c a whole lot of pressure runs through those lines. The reason for the metering valve is that duo servo (self energizing) drums that our trucks have need much less pressure than the front discs need, the metering valve eliminates excess pressure that would otherwise go to the drums, but still maintain pressure in the rest of the system to operate the discs.

That being said I would suggest replacing the metering valve and not bypassing it to obtain normal braking operations. If mine quits working I will bypass it as I much prefer understeer to oversteer problems as understeer is much easier to recover from in icy conditions.

 

Look at other posts in this thread, the info is there, you just need to help yourself a bit and find it in the links provided.

[project88mj]

thank you and i will i just need to know what to plug and run

 

next time i will look before i leap to ask another question

 

onc again thank you to all who contributed :waving:

[project88mj]

thank you and i will i just need to know what to plug and run

 

next time i will look before i leap to ask another question

 

onc again thank you to all who contributed :waving:

[jtdesigns]

here's a paint thing I did on one of those threads it'll tell you what goes where...

[jtdesigns]

here's a paint thing I did on one of those threads it'll tell you what goes where...

[project88mj]

so i cap or plug the

 

bypass for higth adjuster at the bottom front

[project88mj]

so i cap or plug the

 

bypass for higth adjuster at the bottom front

[jtdesigns]

yes.

[jtdesigns]

yes.

[project88mj]

who many feet of brake line do i need to but and what do i need to buy to cap the end?

[project88mj]

who many feet of brake line do i need to but and what do i need to buy to cap the end?

[Wildman]

I'll have to go along with what Eagle and CW posted, But......if you have someone to help you, and show you what to do, and they have the proper tools, and experience then, Yes, it's a learning experience :D

 

Brakes are one thing you don't want to fail when you Need them :eek:

 

For brake line, you can buy a 25 foot roll at the parts store, you need 3/16" line.

 

The "connectors" are called "Hollow nuts" there 3/8" x 3/16" you can buy these in bass or steel, and stick with the steel ones. Any connectors at the metering block, save them and reuse them, there odd fittings.

 

Some one just had a post on what they used for the "plug" at the metering block, you can search that one out. I did mine with the "T" from the rear, and just joined the 2 lines at the metering block.

 

While your at it, change out the soft line from the body/axle, and a good idea to change out the wheel cylinders at the same time with New ones. This will save you problems with disconnecting the old lines and the time saved there, pays for the parts.

 

I'm not touching the subject of the "load leveler" :roll:

 

Once you get the rear brake lines re-built, also plan doing the front lines, and the soft lines, then your all done with the brake plumbing.

 

Here's one post to get you some additional info :yes:

[Wildman]

I'll have to go along with what Eagle and CW posted, But......if you have someone to help you, and show you what to do, and they have the proper tools, and experience then, Yes, it's a learning experience :D

 

Brakes are one thing you don't want to fail when you Need them :eek:

 

For brake line, you can buy a 25 foot roll at the parts store, you need 3/16" line.

 

The "connectors" are called "Hollow nuts" there 3/8" x 3/16" you can buy these in bass or steel, and stick with the steel ones. Any connectors at the metering block, save them and reuse them, there odd fittings.

 

Some one just had a post on what they used for the "plug" at the metering block, you can search that one out. I did mine with the "T" from the rear, and just joined the 2 lines at the metering block.

 

While your at it, change out the soft line from the body/axle, and a good idea to change out the wheel cylinders at the same time with New ones. This will save you problems with disconnecting the old lines and the time saved there, pays for the parts.

 

I'm not touching the subject of the "load leveler" :roll:

 

Once you get the rear brake lines re-built, also plan doing the front lines, and the soft lines, then your all done with the brake plumbing.

 

Here's one post to get you some additional info :yes:

[Eagle]

Somewhere back in time I posted the size bolt needed to plug that outlet. I used a 1/2" SAE fine thread bolt. (Make note of the "fine," because most of the bolts you see in Lowe's and Home Depot are UNC coarse thread.) I couldn't find any that were shorter than 1", which is a lot more than needed. You could use it like that, but I cut mine off and ground the tip down, put an O-ring on it, and put a small dab of black RTV on the end of the shank and let it set up. This way I have the RTV sealing the actual hole in the metering block, and if anything gets past that I still have the O-ring at the bolt shoulder as back-up.

[Eagle]

Somewhere back in time I posted the size bolt needed to plug that outlet. I used a 1/2" SAE fine thread bolt. (Make note of the "fine," because most of the bolts you see in Lowe's and Home Depot are UNC coarse thread.) I couldn't find any that were shorter than 1", which is a lot more than needed. You could use it like that, but I cut mine off and ground the tip down, put an O-ring on it, and put a small dab of black RTV on the end of the shank and let it set up. This way I have the RTV sealing the actual hole in the metering block, and if anything gets past that I still have the O-ring at the bolt shoulder as back-up.

[project88mj]

I used a 1/2" SAE fine thread bolt.

 

what is SAE? stand for?

[project88mj]

I used a 1/2" SAE fine thread bolt.

 

what is SAE? stand for?

[mvusse]

Society of Automotive Engineers.

 

There are quite a few "standards" set by them, including non-metric thread sizes and shapes.

 

I quote "standards" because they are not technically a standard, but common enough to be used as one. If they were they'd be called "ANSI xxx thread" where xxx would be the standard number.

[mvusse]

Society of Automotive Engineers.

 

There are quite a few "standards" set by them, including non-metric thread sizes and shapes.

 

I quote "standards" because they are not technically a standard, but common enough to be used as one. If they were they'd be called "ANSI xxx thread" where xxx would be the standard number.

[CWLONGSHOT]

than you that what i needed m friend has the tools to do the job and did the brakes on his el-comino.

 

i could use a diagram of the metering block so i know what to take off and where the new line needs to be added

 

I'm gonna take a shot in the dark here... you text allot don't you? Try complete sentences and re-read them before posting.

 

I THINK you said you have a friend that will help. He has the proper tools and has done the brakes on a El Camino. As has been said numerious times, this is not the best job for you to "cut your teeth on". If you screw up, people could DIE. Let someone who knows what they are doing do this and ask if you can watch and learn.

 

You are correct, we all start out knowing knothing. But you need to back up a bit, start small and work up. Not everyone is cut out to be a do it yourselfer. There is knothing wrong with that.

 

I am not trying to be mean or flame you in any way. I am sincerely trying to help. Having said that, I feel the best way to help you is to diswade you from doing your brakes at this time. While I am on this soap box. Your posts would make more sense, you would sound more intelligent as well as be easier to read /understand if your sentences had proper punctuation, proper sentence structure and the words where spelled correctly. Again, don't take offence, if I didn't care or didn't want to help, I would just ignore you.

 

CW

[CWLONGSHOT]

than you that what i needed m friend has the tools to do the job and did the brakes on his el-comino.

 

i could use a diagram of the metering block so i know what to take off and where the new line needs to be added

 

I'm gonna take a shot in the dark here... you text allot don't you? Try complete sentences and re-read them before posting.

 

I THINK you said you have a friend that will help. He has the proper tools and has done the brakes on a El Camino. As has been said numerious times, this is not the best job for you to "cut your teeth on". If you screw up, people could DIE. Let someone who knows what they are doing do this and ask if you can watch and learn.

 

You are correct, we all start out knowing knothing. But you need to back up a bit, start small and work up. Not everyone is cut out to be a do it yourselfer. There is knothing wrong with that.

 

I am not trying to be mean or flame you in any way. I am sincerely trying to help. Having said that, I feel the best way to help you is to diswade you from doing your brakes at this time. While I am on this soap box. Your posts would make more sense, you would sound more intelligent as well as be easier to read /understand if your sentences had proper punctuation, proper sentence structure and the words where spelled correctly. Again, don't take offence, if I didn't care or didn't want to help, I would just ignore you.

 

CW

[Eagle]

I used a 1/2" SAE fine thread bolt.

 

what is SAE? stand for?

Bolts in the U.S. come in two classes of thread pitch -- coarse, and fine. Coarse threads are UNC, and fine threads are SAE, because they are encountered most often in automotive applications, and that's what they were developed for. The 1/2" bolts you can find in the drawers at Home Depot (if other customers haven't totally trashed the arrangement) are UNC coarse. They will NOT screw into the outlet on the metering block. You should be able to find 1/2" SAE fine bolts on the revolving display racks at Auto Zone, Advance/Checker/Shucks, and Pep Boys.