going to redo my brakes -----*redone*

[Eagle]

I used a 1/2" SAE fine thread bolt.

 

what is SAE? stand for?

Bolts in the U.S. come in two classes of thread pitch -- coarse, and fine. Coarse threads are UNC, and fine threads are SAE, because they are encountered most often in automotive applications, and that's what they were developed for. The 1/2" bolts you can find in the drawers at Home Depot (if other customers haven't totally trashed the arrangement) are UNC coarse. They will NOT screw into the outlet on the metering block. You should be able to find 1/2" SAE fine bolts on the revolving display racks at Auto Zone, Advance/Checker/Shucks, and Pep Boys.

[project88mj]

Thank you. All of your help has allowed me to feel comfortable enough to buy some brake lines,pratices some and then I will tackle the real job.

 

CW I will try harder to correctly post my comments so you can read the with more ease.

 

Once again thank you all very much and I will comment here if i have any more questions about the brakes. :wavey:

[project88mj]

Thank you. All of your help has allowed me to feel comfortable enough to buy some brake lines,pratices some and then I will tackle the real job.

 

CW I will try harder to correctly post my comments so you can read the with more ease.

 

Once again thank you all very much and I will comment here if i have any more questions about the brakes. :wavey:

[Eagle]

This link may help you with the flaring. One caveat, though -- that flare tool shown in the article is not the best type. The parts chains sell cheap ones that look that that, and they don't work. The clamp doesn't hold the tube, and when you try to make the flare the tube just slides down in the clamp.

 

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html

 

http://www.team-camaro.com/forums/showt ... p?t=145621

 

Do not waste money on a cheap double flare set. This is one place where it isn't just a matter of how many jobs the tool might survive. The cheap ones won't do ONE job, so buying them is a complete waste of money.

 

We had a link on here awhile back on the good double flare tool set. Does anyone remember who made it? J-K Tools, maybe? :dunno: Don't remember.

 

{EDIT}Found it. K-D Tools 2190 is the one that works.

 

http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?Page ... odID=28191

[Eagle]

This link may help you with the flaring. One caveat, though -- that flare tool shown in the article is not the best type. The parts chains sell cheap ones that look that that, and they don't work. The clamp doesn't hold the tube, and when you try to make the flare the tube just slides down in the clamp.

 

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html

 

http://www.team-camaro.com/forums/showt ... p?t=145621

 

Do not waste money on a cheap double flare set. This is one place where it isn't just a matter of how many jobs the tool might survive. The cheap ones won't do ONE job, so buying them is a complete waste of money.

 

We had a link on here awhile back on the good double flare tool set. Does anyone remember who made it? J-K Tools, maybe? :dunno: Don't remember.

 

{EDIT}Found it. K-D Tools 2190 is the one that works.

 

http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?Page ... odID=28191

[project88mj]

looks just like the kit my friend let me use

[project88mj]

looks just like the kit my friend let me use

[project88mj]

do i even need to use that tool if i just plug that port on the metering valve and the outlet on the t-spliter at the rear? :help:

[project88mj]

do i even need to use that tool if i just plug that port on the metering valve and the outlet on the t-spliter at the rear? :help:

[CWLONGSHOT]

do i even need to use that tool if i just plug that port on the metering valve and the outlet on the t-spliter at the rear? :help:

 

That tool is to flair the steel line so it make the pressure connection at the front distribution block AND where it tirminates at the hose in the rear. In and of itself, that dbl flairing tool has nothing to do with plugging anything.

 

Also, it has been suggested (STRONGLY) that you NOT reuse your existing lines at all. They are old, rusty and most important NOT USED TO THE PRESSURE they will now have to endure!!! Install NEW LINES from front to back, complete, than plug the unused front port. BTW, about that port, ask for the correct plug at the parts store, they should have them.

 

CW

[CWLONGSHOT]

do i even need to use that tool if i just plug that port on the metering valve and the outlet on the t-spliter at the rear? :help:

 

That tool is to flair the steel line so it make the pressure connection at the front distribution block AND where it tirminates at the hose in the rear. In and of itself, that dbl flairing tool has nothing to do with plugging anything.

 

Also, it has been suggested (STRONGLY) that you NOT reuse your existing lines at all. They are old, rusty and most important NOT USED TO THE PRESSURE they will now have to endure!!! Install NEW LINES from front to back, complete, than plug the unused front port. BTW, about that port, ask for the correct plug at the parts store, they should have them.

 

CW

[Wildman]

do i even need to use that tool if i just plug that port on the metering valve and the outlet on the t-spliter at the rear? :help:

 

 

I understand what your asking, and your thinking in the wrong direction :doh:

 

Read what CW wrote, see, you need to replace the entire steel lines, you can't just plug this and that.

 

We're giving you advice and ideas, and your twisting them around :roll:

 

Before you type any more questions, go talk to your friend, clime under the truck and look at the brake lines, see what your getting into, and then come back here and ask the questions.

 

Unless you spent your time in higher education learning all about brakes and brake lines, do a little more reading on the subject to get an understanding on this subject :smart:

[Wildman]

do i even need to use that tool if i just plug that port on the metering valve and the outlet on the t-spliter at the rear? :help:

 

 

I understand what your asking, and your thinking in the wrong direction :doh:

 

Read what CW wrote, see, you need to replace the entire steel lines, you can't just plug this and that.

 

We're giving you advice and ideas, and your twisting them around :roll:

 

Before you type any more questions, go talk to your friend, clime under the truck and look at the brake lines, see what your getting into, and then come back here and ask the questions.

 

Unless you spent your time in higher education learning all about brakes and brake lines, do a little more reading on the subject to get an understanding on this subject :smart:

[project88mj]

got them done tonight tomarrow i will be testing them :thumbsup: