turbotyla Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 What is the best way to lift a Comanche say 3" I want some lift for cheap budget right now. i have other things more important. i have 31" tires at the moment. And i want to get 33s soon. Just looking for a lift without going SOA because thats too much. And i don't want to do long arms or track bar or anything of that nature. i plan on lifting my truck higher sooner or later and i understand i will "rebuy" most of the parts. but i just want a budget boost for the time being. So coils Or spacers up front and AAL in rear. I understand AAL is lame but its what I'm stuck with for a budget boost i guess Just throw some ideas my way i would like to fit 33s on a small budget boost and i plan on trimming and have already started. thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Yep...you will definitley need to do some decent trimming to fit 33's under a 3" lift. I have 31's with an RE 3.5" and there is not a lot of room left. You could do some 4" TJ coils and an AAL... They should give you about 3" on the MJ. You will need a track bar and some longer sway bar links as well though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotyla Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 i have 31s right now with no lift. and i can see sway bar disconnect. but will i really need a track bar. Not saying it isnt a needed piece i don't want to get flamed but will my factory not work at only say 2 to 3 inches? I might just do some coil spacers for now i don't want to have to deal with all that at the moment Not being lazy just its really cold here and i am waiting for spring to try to figure out doing a 5" lift. and as far as trackbars i know drop brackets are bad but i don't wheel often at all would it be a bad thing to get Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 If you go 3" or more, then you will need a track bar. If you just do some 2" spacers, you should be OK, but the axle will be off just a little bit. You have already done some cutting if you have 31's on a stock truck. There is no way that 31's go on without a lot of rubbing stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotyla Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 I got my 31s on without any rubbing i drover for a couple days fine. After about 3 days i decided to do some cutting because i want to remount my fender flares but i had no problem with rubbing. At all and i have not shimmed my steering or anything you can check my comanche project page i have pictures of tires and flexing in my drive way with no rubbing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZJrebel Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 I need to read you project page because I have a 2" lift on my MJ with 31's on stock wheels and I rub if a little off camber like turning to a driveway. My truck is basically stock other then the 2"lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotyla Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 Well i have 08 wrangler steel rims and spacers/adapters which bring my offset back to 4.25 which is stock i think but that might be why i do not rub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Stock is 5.25" Buying a used kit might be your best bet. Is there a particular reason you need 33s right now? Is the truck your daily driver? Does it see any freeway travel? Are the tires 33x12.5 or 33x10.5? What's your engine/trans? What are you doing for gearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotyla Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 Dang mr 21 questions. :) No i do not need 33s right now for any reason besides that i want them lol. and this is not a must just thinking. and seeing if its possible. My truck is a daily driver. I do not see too much freeway travel but it is not something i avoid I am a 87 comanche it is a 4.0 Renix 5 speed (i would assume from what info this great site has given me) As for gearing i am stock i have a dana 44 factory and i am the comanche chief. So i would also assume 3.07 i guess unless there is any thing to change that idea if the chief or dana 44 came with anything else. As for gearing i am planning on running 3.73 or somthing in that area. but just staying stock for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Based on that info, I'd suggest being patient and waiting til you can do it right. 33s and 3.07s will SUCK on a dd. Also, your Peugeot trans may not last very long with 33s. While it may or may not be physically possible to stuff 33s into the MJs tiny wheel wells, the truck is not going to perform very well after doing so, not offroad or on road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotyla Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 ok understood but if i get 33s later why would my trans not last? and what are the alternative trans that we can swap into our trucks. i seen a 700r4 with an adapterplate but if i was going to modify my truck to do that i would do a small block swap along with it. I am new to jeeps just not SBC chevy. unless you are saying my tranny will not last unless i gear it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Regearing takes a whole lot of stress off your drivetrain. Think of it as giving all the parts a bigger handle which which to apply force on the tires. But aside from that, the 87-89.5 Peugeot trans (BA-10) is a notoriously weak transmission. I blew mine up running 30s on a 2wd. Be prepared that it could self destruct (slowly or quickly) and have a backup plan. The most common upgrade is to swap in an AX-15 manual trans from an '89.5-'99 4.0L XJ/MJ/YJ/TJ (the XJ/MJ are a mostly bolt-in proposition, the YJ and TJ require a bit more mods to work, any of them will require a matching 23 spline input t-case). Several people report that their Peugeot is still going strong, so if yours gives you no problems, keep it. Just be aware that many many more of us have replaced it. Keep the fluid level topped off and be gentle. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 The Peugeot BA10/5 (which you have) is a notoriously weak transmission. They are very expensive to repair/replace. Most folks swap in an AX-15 from a slightly newer model or go to the AW4 automatic. The AW4 swap is quite a bit more work as it is computer controlled and you have to get the controller as well as the wiring harness to go with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 :yes: :yes: We were on it at the same time Pete... :yes: :yes: Nearly identical descriptions too... :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Almost. I forgot to mention, please don't ever EVER sink any money into repairing a Peugeot (or a Dana 35 while we're on the subject of crap-tastic Jeep parts). Some members have spent hundreds on a rebuild only to have it fail again soon after. The case itself is very weak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotyla Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 Well i read the stock comanche specs on greatlakesxj and it said that i have a ax15 ? Am i wrong or is that the bad trans your said ppl upgrade to it. And i don't plan on sinking any money in to either but my front seal is leaking and i am going to just fix the inner seal. not alot of money but time intensive. i don't wheel hard core or often for that matter. When i lift it i will switch front and rear for already geared from a larger truck. While on the topic and this is a tech thread What trucks would i look for a good front and rear diff to switch to. because my friend has an old 4x4 bronco in his yard with everything. and i could get it cheap. I guess what i am asking is what trucks have close to or the easiest swap as far as that goes i have rims for a 5x5 bolt pattern and would like to keep the bolt pattern 5x4.5 or 5x5 I have a welder and all that i understand brackets and everything will be differnt but what is the best swap. that would already be geared around 3.70/3.73/3.90/ or 4.10 And my truck needs a front driveshaft went to junk yard today and can't find one. the ones out of cherokees won't work will they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 The only way you have an AX15 is if someone swapped it in. The AX15 was not used until mid 1989 in XJ's or MJ's. The D30 front axle that you have is a good axle for up to about a 35" tire and moderate wheelin'. You can get a Ford 8.8 from an Explorer to go in without a lot of work and match the 5on4.5 bolt pattern, but hat would not make a lot of sense since you already have a D44 and it is good for up to 37" tires with moderate wheelin' :cheers: . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 Just cause a pair of axles are cheap, doesn't mean they are a good choice. If they are 77 and earlier, the front axle is low pinion, has small U-joints and possibly drum brakes. The rear axle is the small-bearing 28 spline 9". Neither are an especially good choice to build. 78 and 79 Broncos have the cast-in front radius arm perches and are not a good choice if you want a 4-link front suspension. 80 and later Broncos have TTB front axles (a form of IFS) and are worthless. Look into the Rubicon JK axles from Mopar. They are front and rear Dana 44 (equivalent) with selectable lockers and 4.10 gears. Wheel bolt pattern is 5 on 5 and the front already has the right bracketry on it (except for the track bar) and they are brand spankin' new. They will cost a bit under 3 grand for the pair, but you can sink most of that total into old axles and still have, well, old axles. Rumor has it they were thinking on making TJ specific JK axles and that would fix the front track bar issue. Rear axles will just need to be cleaned of all mounts and have leaf perches welded on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotyla Posted December 7, 2008 Author Share Posted December 7, 2008 i bought this truck for 500 i do not plan on spending 3 grand on axles. I just plan on putting the truck on at the most 5 inches of lift and maybe 35s. But i do not want to go crazy with this thing i do not have loads of money to throw around most of my money that is for projects gets put into my malibu. i will just keep the axles then moderate lift gears and tires thats all i am planning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 I don't want to crush your dreams, but the reality is that big tires can eat money. They require more to set up in the first place and then break stuff, prematurely wear out stuff, etc. For my 88 (with 1/2 ton Ford axles) I stuck with 33s on 5inches of lift. I've got no need for bigger tires. They provide all of 1 inch more ground clearance and aren't worth the headaches. At least upgrade your front axle shafts to the later model XJ/TJ with the bigger 297 U-joints when you add the bigger tires. :thumbsup: A stock MJ Dana 30 really isn't up to taking on 35s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmack Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 why don't you leave well enough alone? no offence, I'm just curious. :???: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotyla Posted December 7, 2008 Author Share Posted December 7, 2008 i have never said anything abou 35s? i just want maybe at most 33s i do not want to spend a too much time or money on this truck. why don't you leave well enough alone? no offence, I'm just curious. :???: What ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 I just plan on putting the truck on at the most 5 inches of lift and maybe 35s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmack Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 i have never said anything abou 35s? i just want maybe at most 33s i do not want to spend a too much time or money on this truck. why don't you leave well enough alone? no offence, I'm just curious. :???: What ???? :dunno: lol i don't understand why you want to lift your truck and put the big tires on. call me old fashioned but I'm kinda old fashioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 Lifting and bigger tires is needed if you want to take it offroad other than sand trails ;) . Then there are people like me that will never use their MJ offroad, but lift it and put bigger tires on it just for the looks :cheers: If someone is happy with their truck not lifted...that's great too :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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