ROADLESS Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 First off, this is from my son's 88 XJ, but thought it would be of interest as it is the same axle as our MJ's :smart: Finally got around to change out the hubs as they have been needing replaced for a while. After removing the hubs, i figured i might as well change the axle u-joints too. Upon removing the axles however, i noticed gear oil leaking from the shaft :eek: and was pretty sure i damaged the axle seal (driver side) when i pulled the axle! You can see some of the drippage here: I then removed the differential cover along with the carrier: And to my surprise the axle seals appear to be in pretty good shape as seen here: About 3 or 4 oz's of gear oil leaked out and remains a mystery. So it looks like i can continue on with new u-joints while i wait for the new hubs to get here (bought a pair of hubs on eBay for $163 shipping included!). Also, i am not sure what to think about this, but i was expecting a shim or two to fall out when i removed the carrier but there were none :dunno: ! Comments/constructive criticism are welcome. P.S. This probably needs moved to projects section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 Once you slide the shafts some grease will come out because the seal will flex and move as you pull it no worries there and your lucky especially if its a dico axle they are the biggest pain :mad: to mess with IMO. And Good luck on everything going back together smothly. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROADLESS Posted July 1, 2006 Author Share Posted July 1, 2006 Thanks, that certainly makes sense. BTW, its a non-disco axle :yes: Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabz Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 those silly ole d30's will leak whenever you pull a shaft out or change a unihub, every one I have owned has leaked a time or too . If you have bad Ball joints they tend to leak , and if the axle joints are bad they tend to leak . As long as you are not loseing fluid constantly or for more than a week you should be good , Just always check the fluid regularly. My daughters XJ d30 leaks from one side or the other for no reason , just for a day or two then it stops :roll: . My YJ leaked for about a month out of that disco side seal and then one day it just stopped that was 2 years ago and it hasnt leaked a drop since. By the way carrier shims on a d3o are under the carrier bearings , sounless you pull them you'll not see any :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 ugh, I'm either buying that D30 that was in the classifieds soon or ill have to do a seal job, ON A DISCOAXLE... ugh did you have trouble with the 12 point bolts that hold the hub on? (ive got a shot axle u-joint as well as my constant drip down the inside wall of the tire.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabz Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 Most of the time those 12 point bolts come out ok. When you pull the brake rotor wire brush down the three bolts that hold the wheel bearing on from the rotor side then soak in wd-40. that will help em :D I always have an extra wheel bearing just in case I have to beat the old one loose , sometimes they rust on ( remeber anti seize is your friend when putting the new bearing in :D ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROADLESS Posted July 1, 2006 Author Share Posted July 1, 2006 ugh, I'm either buying that D30 that was in the classifieds soon or ill have to do a seal job, ON A DISCOAXLE... ugh did you have trouble with the 12 point bolts that hold the hub on? (ive got a shot axle u-joint as well as my constant drip down the inside wall of the tire.) I used plenty of PB blaster and 1/2" drive socket with breaker bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 ugh, I'm either buying that D30 that was in the classifieds soon or ill have to do a seal job, ON A DISCOAXLE... ugh did you have trouble with the 12 point bolts that hold the hub on? (ive got a shot axle u-joint as well as my constant drip down the inside wall of the tire.) I used plenty of PB blaster and 1/2" drive socket with breaker bar. ive got a 1 1/2 foot 1/2"drive torque wrench you think that would get it out? we only tried with minimal wd40 and a regular ole socket (sorry for the partial-jack) -nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jage Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 Thread burglar! Don't minimal anything. They're not easy to break loose. My bolts came out fine, but I always find you get more control with a longer handle to break 'em loose. Rather than hanging all over a short socket wrench you can sort of guide a longer wrench better and put more of control into bolt rotation and less into twisting. The tough part for me was taking the hubs out the first time - they are interference fit and mine had been in there about 15 years. Total nightmare. I wound up threading the bolts back in almost up to the head and then putting a socket over to protect the head before BFHing (Big F. Hammer) and that was inbetween prying, pounding this way and that, with tire on, tire off and everything else I could think of. You've got to work all the way around evenly, you can't tip out one side so patience is the key. If anybody has any better methods for pulling hubs pray share! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 Use a slide hammer :nanner: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jage Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 where/how do you attach it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 You attatch it using the studs for the lug nuts :smart: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 About the oil....maybe the prev owner overfilled the diff. This would allow an exessive amount of oil to come out. Be sure to wire brush the contact points where the hub contacts the bearing and bolt threads. Then apply a good coat of anti sleeze to that area and the threads of all bolts. Good luck, CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whowey Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 ugh, I'm either buying that D30 that was in the classifieds soon or ill have to do a seal job, ON A DISCOAXLE... ugh did you have trouble with the 12 point bolts that hold the hub on? (I've got a shot axle u-joint as well as my constant drip down the inside wall of the tire.) I used plenty of PB blaster and 1/2" drive socket with breaker bar. I've got a 1 1/2 foot 1/2"drive torque wrench you think that would get it out? we only tried with minimal wd40 and a regular ole socket (sorry for the partial-jack) -nick First, NO don't use a torque wrench for breaking bolts loose. A torque wrench is a specialty tool that needs to remain accurate for it to do its proper job. Go to Harbor Freight or another deep discounter of tools and get a breaker bar. I think I payed $20 for a pair of 1/2 breaker bars from HF. One is 12" long, and the other is 24" long. And PB Blaster is easily 10 times the penetrant that WD-40 is. WD-40 is great when water gets into the electronics, but let chemistry work for you. BTW, I used a chisel, hammer, air chisel, slide hammer, alot of four letter words, and at least 3 beers the first time I removed a unit-hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 http://www.quadratec.com/products/92810_209.htm This is how to properly remove a hub. Just be sure you have the nut on the axle stub or you could easily pull the actual bearing appart. don't ask How I know that...just take the advise. :) :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROADLESS Posted July 1, 2006 Author Share Posted July 1, 2006 Here is what i used, a HF special for under $15 . I should also add that my hubs came off without to much difficulty. The puller along with a few soakings with PB blaster worked well. That and years of our S. California like climate (yes in idaho) also helped :banana: ! Oh, sorry for the glare! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 BECAREFUL pulling that way!!! It too could pull the bearing appart if baddly rusted!!!!! I am glad it worked for you..but its NOT the adviseable method. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whowey Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 BECAREFUL pulling that way!!! It too could pull the bearing appart if baddly rusted!!!!! I am glad it worked for you..but its NOT the adviseable method. CW I agree with the warning, but not for the same reason. Pressing against the axle shaft like that isn't a good idea. The force you are putting it on, is transmitted all the way back, into the carrier and bearings. Not to mention into the U-joints, against the seals etc.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROADLESS Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 BECAREFUL pulling that way!!! It too could pull the bearing appart if baddly rusted!!!!! I am glad it worked for you..but its NOT the adviseable method. CW Appreciate the concern. And yes it may not be the best way, however, if you prep the hub properly it works well. Part of the prep involved using liberal amounts of PB Blaster (this is amazing stuff). Also, prior to pulling the hubs i left about 1/4 inch of 'slack' on the three 13mm bolts (wrench size) behind the knuckle. I then placed a 13mm socket on the bolts and gave them all good blows with the hammer. Just enough to 'crack the rust seal' from the hub/knuckle union. I then screwed the 36mm nut back on the axle end and gave it a couple of good raps with a two lb. hammer to loosen the hub from the axle (i credit Go-Jeep for this http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHubReplacement.htm ) :bowdown: Following this i used the three jaw puller to take the hub off the rest of the way. I can see how dangerous this could be if you jumped right in with no prep work :nuts: especially when using China built tools. However, if properly prepped, you shouldn't have a problem (at least i didn't). I would also like to add that if you use this type of puller and it binds up on you, then more prep work needs to be done or repeated! Thanks for the comments guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROADLESS Posted July 3, 2006 Author Share Posted July 3, 2006 http://www.quadratec.com/products/92810_209.htm This is how to properly remove a hub. Just be sure you have the nut on the axle stub or you could easily pull the actual bearing appart. don't ask How I know that...just take the advise. :) :D Having looked at the puller in your link, i don't see how it would work any better to avoid hub separation. The manufacturer of that puller even cautions you about bearing separation during use ! I do agree that it is probably safer to use though as it utilizes fewer parts and looks pretty strong :bowdown: . Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 http://www.quadratec.com/products/92810_209.htm This is how to properly remove a hub. Just be sure you have the nut on the axle stub or you could easily pull the actual bearing appart. don't ask How I know that...just take the advise. :) :D You are ADSOLUTELY correct!! This is why I said what I said above. No harm or insult meant...just my experience talking here. :oops: :oops: I now pull the hub and axle as a unit. then put the axle in a vice and with a impact, I remove the 36mm nut and the hub from its shaft. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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