Mitch Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Looking for information on a front long arm kit. Looking for cheap, but want to see if any have skidplates in the design as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 WOW you are asking for alot if you want a cheap LA kit with a skid plate. :no: Personally I run the Rock Krawler 3 link set up and love it. Just make sure whatever sytem you go with your shocks are shorter then your brake lines, and your limit strap is shorter then your shocks :smart: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch Posted October 31, 2008 Author Share Posted October 31, 2008 Did you get that from motion? Is yours the Gen 3 or Gen 2? Whats the difference in parts and cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Asking for "cheap" in a long-arm suspension conversion is asking for disaster. I like Clayton's, in large measure because I have wheeled with him and I know that the suspension was designed to stand up to the way he abuses it. http://www.claytonoffroad.com/index.asp ... herokee!XJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch Posted October 31, 2008 Author Share Posted October 31, 2008 Thanks Eagle, Regardless - I still want cheap. Almost considering making my own w/ friends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motion Offroad Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Is yours the Gen 3 or Gen 2? Whats the difference in parts and cost? Gen 3 is a high clearance arm and has a re-designed mounting system that now is 100% bolt on. Only welding that is "required" is to tack the crush sleaves so that they don't fall into the frame rail during install. You can get away without doing this step if your extra carefull (aka run a wire threw it prior to installing the bolt). We've got them marked down $40 currently, give us a call and we may be able to even offer more... Also FYI, the XJ/MJ RK 3-Link kit will only be available until 12/30/08 and is being discontinued at that point. A new system will be available from RK at that point, but pricing is going up significantly as it includes much more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DansGreyMj Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Did you check any vendors on Naxja or Pirate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Just make sure whatever sytem you go with your shocks are shorter then your brake lines, and your limit strap is shorter then your shocks :smart: That is some good advice ~ as I run out to check on mine :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Thanks Eagle, Regardless - I still want cheap. Almost considering making my own w/ friends. I understand that money doesn't grow on trees and that you may feel you can't afford an "expensive" professional long arm kit. I know I can't. But I've seen a number of home-made long arm kits, as well as being in Clayton's shop watching how his stuff is fabricated, and being on the scene while he was installing a kit for one of my friends in NAXJA. I gotta tell you, the home-made stuff was so scary that I didn't want to be within ten miles of it -- literally. A poorly designed or poorly engineered or poorly fabricated/installed suspension won't just leave you stuck -- it can kill you. You do NOT fool around with that stuff. If you can't afford to do it right, stay with a 3" lift and 31-inch tires until you CAN afford to do it right. I know this will sound melodramatic, but considering what I've seen -- it's not: How much is your life worth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch Posted November 1, 2008 Author Share Posted November 1, 2008 thanks eagle, I understand your concern, and wouldnt want anyone doing what I am thinking of doing... But... (there's always a but). I myslef have welded for years! And though I havent lately, I still know what a good weld looks like. That said - if and when I do make my own suspension, this thing will be on a fast pace to buggy and a trailer queen - not driven on the street - ever. Also, you should know, that I have 3 cars, and my MJ is never driven as the other two are less than 4 years old. I am not going to DD something with booger welds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Also, keep in mind that if something fails on the street and someone is injured, you're liable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 It isn't just the quality of the welds that's a concern. Clayton is, by training and profession, an industrial engineer. His kit wasn't thrown together. He wheeled a ZJ (which is what the kit was first developed for) and he looked hard at what he broke each time he was out. Then he engineered a long arm kit that was optimized to be more than beefy enough where things get stressed, without being made of cast iron and weighing three tons. He also had the knowledge to evaluate what was needed in the way of purchased components, such as rod ends (I think he used Johnny joints, but I don't recall). That's why I stressed design and engineering. If you don't understand how this stuff works, you can make up a finely crafted pile of hardware that'll kill you in a heartbeat. Keep in mind, too, that materials have a cost. You asked for "cheap." If you as an individual were to set out to build your own clone of a Clayton kit -- I seriously doubt you could produce just one for less than what he sells his for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck23ms Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 how does the clayton kit attach to the uni rails? by looking at the pics its only held on by the 4 stock crossmember bolts. if that is the case i'd look for something other than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 how does the clayton kit attach to the uni rails? by looking at the pics its only held on by the 4 stock crossmember bolts. if that is the case i'd look for something other than that. Nope. The Clayton kit includes a complete new crossmember. The two outer ends, which also incorporate the mounts for the arms, bolt to the unirails at the point where the rear section is nested to the front section, providing a double thickness of steel. In addition to the bolts, the end pieces are welded to the uniframe sections. The center portion of the crossmember is bolted in between, so it's removable for tranny service. He designed it to mount where it does specifically so there would be enough thickness there to weld to. It's VERY strong. There are a LOT of his kits out there, and I've never heard of one breaking or tearing loose from the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 Mine is the Gen 3 kit. :smart: It does great. Flexes nicely. The install was easy except I ran into issues cause I was running a different trans(pukegoat) then the kit was designed for. Installation could be handles in a day if you had all the tools and a well laid plan. I didnt like the fact that it only had 2 thru frame bolts, and 2 x-member bolts holdin it on.. so I welded mine to the frame. :nuts: After 2 trips no issues so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 you get what you pay for. 'nuff said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 BUilding a kit yourself.. might not be as cheap as you think. By the time you buy the needed joints and jam nuts you could be well over 200 bucks, just depending on size. Then there is the link material.. Depending on size you could be over 200 bucks just for one stick.. which is enough for a set of LA's. Then you have the brackets you have to make.... I wouldnt even think of making them thinner then 1/4 or 5/16. Did I mention grade 8 hardware :idea: Think about what you want, and how much time you have to make it happen. You might rethink making your own Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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