steering hitting disco's

[moparmatt]

When I turn right where the drag link meets the tie rod the joint hits my disconnect swaybar endlink on the passenger side.

 

I upgraded to v8 ZJ steering and pitman arm because the track bar was not parallel with the draglink. Now it is.

 

Any ideas to fix it, so it does not hit.

 

FYI I have about 6" of lift.

 

Thanks

[project88mj]

thin you could post some pics of this?

[Drahcir495]

When I turn right where the drag link meets the tie rod the joint hits my disconnect swaybar endlink on the passenger side.

 

I upgraded to v8 ZJ steering and pitman arm because the track bar was not parallel with the draglink. Now it is.

 

Any ideas to fix it, so it does not hit.

 

FYI I have about 6" of lift.

 

Thanks

I had the same problem. I corrected it with the sway bar relocation brackets from JKS. You can see the pictures on page 9 of my build-up page here -> http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... &start=120 . I used the V8 ZJ steering also - sans the drop pitman arm. Both MJ/ZJ set ups hit the passenger side after the lift - I stayed with the ZJ steering - Rich

[Pete M]

It's possible for the bar to migrate to one side or the other. Make sure the sway bar is centered. :thumbsup:

[CWLONGSHOT]

Sorry to have to say but, @ 6" of lift, you at max for that factory setup, whether it be XJ,ZJ or stock MJ. Just look at the joint on the pass side. Its all but maxed out for droop now.

 

The relocation brackets will eliminate the contact you are finding but will do nothing for the bad angles from your lift.

 

Time for an upgrade. :brows: :brows:

 

I recomend the JCR 1 ton set up, but there is a couple others out that are all but identical that will also work fine!!

 

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CW

[moparmatt]

Sorry to have to say but, @ 6" of lift, you at max for that factory setup, whether it be XJ,ZJ or stock MJ. Just look at the joint on the pass side. Its all but maxed out for droop now.

 

The relocation brackets will eliminate the contact you are finding but will do nothing for the bad angles from your lift.

 

Time for an upgrade. :brows: :brows:

 

I recomend the JCR 1 ton set up, but there is a couple others out that are all but identical that will also work fine!!

 

Image Not Found

 

CW

 

$314 dollars + shipping!!!!!!!

 

There has to be a cheaper solution.

 

I agree that my steering is maxed out and getting relocation's will only mask the problem until I keep breaking joints.

[reson46]

Steering is not something to save money on. Do yourself and everybody else on the road near you a favor and buy a quality steering system, not a cheap system.

 

Willy

[moparmatt]

Send me a check :D

 

After I did some searching I will just do OTK setup like go-jeep's, alot of freaking work but oh well.

[reson46]

Send me a check :D

 

I'm not the government. Earn your own money.

 

Willy

[moparmatt]

Take a joke buddy, Did you really think I though you were going send me money.

 

I work very hard, I just like to spend my money wisely. I hate throwing money to fix problems, it only causes problems. Like I was saying I work hard I perfer to use my hands and brain to develop a solution, than my wallet, that is why I asked for advice.

 

I understand were you are coming from with the safety issue, I assure it will not be half @$$.

 

Keep it easy

Matt

[DirtyComanche]

Flipping the stockish stuff is alright for a couple inches of lift, but in the end you really need to upgrade a little more. The factory inverted-Y setup is a little bit retarded, at droop you get toe-in (noticably) and stuff you get toe-out. While flexing it does some weird stuff. And it's really not very strong - the TREs are crap.

 

The JCR setup is major bang for the buck. Go price out the TREs that it uses. I CAN'T buy the 4 TREs for the price of his entire kit! Besides, that stuff is actually strong enough to really limit worry. Get some flipserts, and drill the knucles out while you're at it, to 'improve' the drag link angle a bit.

 

Of course, I will point out, the drag-link and track bar angle do have to be parallel (measuing with a direct line from joint centre to centre), but they also have to be relatively the same length. Or ideally exactly the same. Generally this means some fiddling with the track bar brackets. And I'd run the flattest pitman arm that will allow for a reasonable static drag-link angle, but there is not always a choice.

[mjdoa]

Can I bump this to ask an unrelated question?

I ordered discos last night from Motion Offroad

(thanks MO).

I have 4.5"lift,the lowering brackets for the sway bar

tha came with the lift kit are stopping me from putting

the factory engine skid plate back on.

I want to use the discos to eliminate the brackets,

raise the front of the bar so I can use said skid plate.

Looking at CW's pictures,I don't think it's gonna happen.

The front of the bar is still low.

Any insight?

[moparmatt]

To be honest, I have seen tons of XJ/MJ rigs and only seen a few front skids. And most of them were on stock rigs for show and not wheeling.

 

Do you really need a front skid plate?

 

I understand, I have the same problem if I have something sitting in my garage I need to install on my rig.

[mjdoa]

I understand, I have the same problem if I have something sitting in my garage I need to install on my rig.

 

 

You busted me. :clapping:

Plus,I do some wheeling,it worries me looking under the

front bumper and seeing the crank pulley,oil pan,etc.,

all exposed.